hey guys, running a totaly stock eab flathead v8 in my 53 customline ford and im thinking down the road its going to need a bit more "umph" a little beefyer cam sounds like a good way to go. any recomendations? its a heavy car and a daily driver so nothing realy radicle, i think you know what im looking for. tim
Running an Isky Max-1 on my 1950 Flathead motor. I like it. Has a fun, lopey idle (lopey is the correct term, right?) and helps pull more with multiple carbs. Max 1
Go over to Ford Barn and ask Ol Ron. Seems to me like the consensus over there is that the Max 1 is little better than stock.
Ol Ron will recomend the Literio L-100. He put one in the engine he built for me. It has a real deal lope, and pulls hard from about 1800 thru 4500. I've tickled 5000+ but Ron told me to red line it at 4000 to make sure the engine would be around for a long time. After all it's a street engine and it's just supposed to sound hot when you're crusing around.
a recent hotrod magazine flathead article build-up ran a max-1 and claimed 160 hp . seems like a good all around grind
Here is a link to the specs and contact info for the company that is reproducing them. http://www.fordbarn.com/earlyv8/forum03/messages2/5005038.html
I agree with FlatDog . . . in an otherwise stock engine, the L100 is probably a bit much. Also - he is in a heavy car - which makes things even worse. Given that we don't know what else he's going to do to the engine --> dual carbs, headers, heads, ignition, etc . . . it is a bit hard to recommend anything. I think something along the line of an Isky Max-1 would be more appropriate. Over camming a big heavy car with an otherwise stock engine isn't going to make anybody happy. IMHO Dale
I'm running an ISKY #88 Full race in my flathead with three Stromberg 97's linked progressive, Offy 8:1 high compression heads and dual point Mallory distributor........it idles pretty well with some lope but really comes on after about 2500 rpms and when I kick in the two end carbs......I like how it runs and sounds......wouldn't hesitate to recommend it..... Brucie
Max-1 For your application, would be a great choice - it is appreciably better than stock Stock ~ .328" lift & 190* dur on 110 lobe c/l Max-1 - .364" lift & 249* dur on 111 lobe c/l
Hey Tim, I would recommend the Max -1 as well. It's what I put in my 8BA and does it sound ***** at idle.... and pull when the second carb kicks in You'll probably want to invest in some adjustable lifters as well. The Max-1 has a wee bit more lift than a worn stocker When I measured the lift from my original cam, it was missing about .030" lift from what the manual quoted Flatman
I have a Max 1 per FlatDog's suggestion. Four inch crank, Stromberg equipped Thickstun 2x2 and a Mallory dist. on loan from the worlds largest pre-war indoor junk yard. All of this is under the hood of a junky little modified roadster so there isn't much weight there. Granted I only have a couple of days on it with no real tuning but I can definitely tell it's pulling harder than stock. So if I'm reading correctly an L 100 is a regrind? Interesting. Flatdog, if you're out there, what would you have to say about putting an L 100 in a blown motor? I've nearly got all of the parts gathered save the cam *and the price of the L 100 is pretty attractive.
Your not the only one, FlatOz and Rat******* are both in the process of doing this setup. Rat currently has the L100 naturally aspirated with the blower ready to go. FlatOz has the 4-71 blown motor with the L100 ready to go in. If we could combine the two motors lol. When I rebuild mine, I think the L100 would be nice, although I've heard good things about the Potvin 3/8. Side note: I get a wierd message when i try to visit fordbarn, saying I dont have permission. They closed it off? Danny
Well as Psycho said, Im gonna find out pretty soon as to how the L100 will go with the 4-71 on my 258 cube 8BA. IMHO, a proper blower cam with a a lower duration @.050, decent lift to allow breathing and a lobe sep of around 112-114 deg is better - dont really want to push all that nice boost out the exhuast now do I lol !! I belive Dave Tatom is grinding blower specific Flathead cams and I think I read somewhere Schneider were about to do the same. Anyone know for sure? Rat Rat
Grim, Hi ,that l-100 I think would work well with a blower,My motor in the car now that does not have a cam made for a blower,has specs that look like a l-100 with more lift.Its runs great with blower.Next motor will have cam made for blower.Might not run better,time (times )will tell.
RE: Blower Cams and Other Grinds There is another cam grinder that you guys should all know about -- named "Pete" at D&L Auto Machine in Washington. He has been building and racing flatheads for many years and has patterns for most of the hot grinds - as well as some special radius ones. He has a cool grind that is kind of like an Isky 400 Jr . . that has .400 lift and about 270 duration (about the biggest you can go on a stock core) -- I'm going to try one in one of my street blower motors. Also - he can grind a Potvin 425, Isky 404-A, etc.. I don't know if he has the Potvin 3/8 pattern? Anyway - talk to Pete and tell him that Dale Hays in Columbus sent yah! Pete D & L Auto Machine 20409 SR 706 Elbe,Wa.98330 eMail: tuspwr@direcway.com 360-569-2656
Roger Lund with the gold '30 coupe has a Potvin 3/8 in his, and it sounds GREAT! I think he said it had a 3-5/16" x 4" inside and only runs one two barrel on top (a couples dummies for looks). My next cam is gonna be a Potvin 3/8. He told me he got his cam from Red's Headers.
alchemy vbmenu_register("postmenu_1352404", true); You got most of it right, I have been trying to find the info I got with that cam, but I must have put somewhere so it would'nt get lost, now I can't find nuttin. Anywho, I got that Potvin 3/8 from Flathead Jack, and I think I saw an ad in one of the mags this month that said he had a new catalog out. If I find more later I'll add it buflochp
We are going to try an Isky 77B in our 8BA, Flower doesn't want a bumpy idle but we need a little more than stock. We'll see how she goes in a few days, the block is still at the machine shop.
I found this site and the technical details of evaluating flathead cams amazing: http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/index.html http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/FlatheadPerformance.html I especially like this observation: As explained in the Cam Perfomance page, slow opening and closing contributes to poor idle and off idle performance and poor low speed torque. If you want a lumpy idle and poor low end performance, then you should pick a slow opening/closing cam.
Yes, quite the discussion going on at the Fordbarn about flatty cams right now. Both a distinguished grinder and a NASCAR engine builder are discussing their current products. Along with a bunch of others' opinions and experiences with many different designs.
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