Picked up this f1 gear box today for the coupe. I lucked out searching on offer up for hot rod parts. This gem came up had to snatch it up. B Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Big block mounts out !! Will mock up my flathead this weekend hopefully. Also made a hole where the stock steering gear box went so I can mock up the gearbox Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Gibbs is the only thing to use, every where, chassis also, seems expensive but you actually use very little. - have you done it yet ?.......
Just finished making my trans mounts for the coupe. Also made a frame for my body to place on top of. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Motor and transmission are in, next is to figure out steering . Add my 32 spindles and throw some heat on them bad boys. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Damn that looks sweet man, love it [emoji1362]can’t wait to get mine on the road . Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Got my 32 spindles reamed with new bushings and had some time to paint my 32 plates as well. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Quick update on the coupe. So I came across a problem with my f1 pedals,apparently the shaft is so worn out and there’s no reproduction part for it. So I went down to early ford store in San Dimas out here in Cali to see if their might be a shaft similar in diameter. After looking through some I found one that’s a few inches longer but will work. Part number taaa-7506 . If you guys come across this problem this is what I used for my pedal assembly. I cut the shaft to the same size in length and added a washer at the end so the clutch pedal won’t slip out. Welded that baby up probably could have done a better job but it was my first attempt lol. Let me know if you guys have any better suggestions thanks. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Should have put the weld on the outside of the washer. Your pedal is gonna scrape against that fillet weld now.
Yeah eventually the pedal will wear down , I’ve decided to try something else. Same concept but make a washer that will fit around the diameter then weld up on the outside like you said. This way I get more meat on the weld then I can cut to size. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Had some time to mock up my radiator, drilled some holes and got my headlight bar up as well. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Looks great!! I love that you are going with a Flathead and 3spd with open drive, I put a 5 speed behind my Flathead in my 3W and love it!!.............Also the F100 column you have will work great in a 32 frame with a Flathead, the F1 is the best one for a AV8.
That 32 looks great. Nice find. Looks like the progress is coming nicely as well. Just posted an album on my page, but here is the most recent picture of my build. Not a 32, but it is a 1928 Closed cab pickup.
Here's mine. Very basic early post war hot rod. 59ab,39 trans and 40 rear. 40 ford brakes all around with orig paint steelies.Real mor-drop big beam axle. I envisioned it this way for years before i actually built it. The bottom picture is from it's last resting place.It had been a hot rod forever.
Had some time this past week to mock up my f1-pedals. Tacked everything in place , still need to heat up the arms, to clear but everything is in position. I will place the body on the frame soon so I can mock up my seat and build a base for it as well. Once I do that I can also put my gear box in and set up where the placement for that will be. So much to do but I’m doing it little at a time. By the way I will add some support to the frame from the piece that I had cut off. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Made some more progress on the seat frame today. I will trim it up A bit once I drill my holes so I can bolt it down. Found this seat at a junkyard out of a minivan. I can’t afford an original so this will have to do.Hopefully this weekend I can heat up the clutch and brake pedals so I can mount my column and start cutting that down to fit. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Got my 33 wishbones in today and set them at 7 degrees. I couldn’t run my hairpins I had due to the f1-gear box set up I’m going with. Clearance issues, this should make it easier for me. Also the frame came with a straight front cross member so this was an issue for me to get the right angle on the axel. Had to place the wishbones in the middle of the frame. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Great project, Looked a milliontimes better after the rust treatment . Looking at the pics I was wondering if you maybee had positioned your F1 pedal assembly a bit to far to the right . The anchor pivot for the clutch actuator is usually attached or as near as damit to the chassis directly, That would position the pedals more to the left and allow your colum to pas between the clutch and brake pedal .. Im not picking holes in your work, Im hopeing to maybee point out a small glitch before you button stuff up only to find you have to shift it again.. On issue I had with the F100 "style" steering box inthe 32 frame was the resulting angle of the steering colum. I found that the colum was to far to the left and fitting a 17 inch steering wheel resulted in the wheel almost hitting the inside of the door .. Mind you, that was a 1930 model A body on the 32 rails the 32 might be a little wider as it sits over the rails rather than ontop of them like the A.. Changing the mount angle with a wedge plate didnt work well as the thickness of the wedge plate ( speedway) didnt allow for enough of the sterring box pinion shaft to pass through the chassis for full fitting of the pitman arm. The pitman arm would not go on far enough to fit the pinch bolt . The angle also created a problem when the steering wheel was turned to the right . As the ptman pulled back it was restricted in its movement by fowling onthe chassis.. I machined the spacer plate down by around 4mm overall thickness which at least gave the pitman the clearance to fit the pinion properly and fit the pinch bolt and give the pitman ( at the pinion) clearance with the chassis when the steering was turned right. Just a couple of issues I run into with the F100 steering box. Im not exactly sure whatyear my box is but there are several different versions as all Gemmer boxes that look like F1 / F100 are not actually what they might appear to be . Gemmer made similar looking boxes for other auto manufacturers .. My box was probably one of those alternatives and looking at your box, in the pictures at least, the pinion casting from the main body to the mounting face looks pretty short ... ( that could just be the angle of the box in the photographs ) No negatives here , Just sharing the wee glitches I found. Just things to look out for and consider Keep up the great progress
The Jalopy Journal
