Howdy, got a Maverick rear for my shoebox, but my stock wheels won't fit because the center hub is too big. Can I grind this down without any safety risks?
You mean the center of the axle is bigger than the center of the stock shoebox Ford rims ?? IF so ... yes I would turn them in a lathe ... to fit ... if it was me ...
I did it with a die grinder one time. Took FOREVER ,and didn't look all the great when the hubcaps were off....If you can get to a lathe, use it.
I have used the torch on many o good wheel to get them to fit on a later model axle. It hurt me to do it, but ya gotta do what you gotta do. Hot rob
That tight fit between the inside diameter of the steel wheel and the outside diameter of the raised portion on the axle hub served two purposes----it took some of the shear loading off of the wheel studs, and it helped the wheel stay concentric to the rotating axle assembly. If you are going to do anything, turn down the outer diameter of the axle hub on a lathe. Don't turn it down to far either. Get a good micrometer and measure the diameter of the axle hub on whatever the wheels come off originally---turn the new axle hub to within +/- .002" of the original hub that those wheels mounted on.
don't mean to butt in BUT does this mean I should not try to run aluminum wheels if the center is much larger than the axel hub??!! or is there a resonable torque setting where that would be safe?
Rich---I don't really think thats a big deal. The major car companies have to build things in a manner that is correctly engineered in order to avoid law suits.---If ya build a million cars and one percent of them breaks, thats still 10,000 potential lawsuits. If you are going to modify something, then modify it using a correctly engineered approach. That being said, I have ran numerous hotrods with wheels which had holes bigger than the locating hub on the axle flange, and nothing ever failed, but it is something to be aware of----
I had to grind my axles down one time, I cranked the truck up and put it in drive , "the truck was on jackstands with the wheels and brake drums off" That way the axles were spinning, then I held even pressure on the axle with a grinder , until I had a nice fit.
thanks brian, I just don't need any problems like the wheels literally falling off or the studs breaking. I don't even have the car done yet and that would suck like on the 1st ride.There is alot of space between them and a buddy of mine said nothing to worry about but it bothers me ya know?
Yes, even I, the Engineering Guru, have done shit like that. I knew it was wrong. I knew there was a better way. I knew it was not correct engineering wise---but damn, I couldn't afford to pay a machinest to do it, and I certainly didn't want to pull my rear axles apart. I have been a hotrodder for over 40 years. I have gotten away with more weird shit that should have killed me than you can ever imagine. That don't mean what I done was right. It sure doesn't mean that I would recommend it to other people. Now that I am older (and supposedly wiser) there are a lot of things I wouldn't do again.---Just think it goes to show that there is a special Angel that watches over hotrodders!!!
Yeah I've been harley, muscle cars and hot rods for over 30 years and I've sure gotten away with alot of shit that should have killed me too but I gueass that's why this thread got my attention.I don't want something stupid to happen now.Too many responsibilities and family and I aint ready to go yet at least not til I have some fun with my chebbie.
If it bothers you, have a spacer made up to fit into the rim that has the correct center bore diameter. It'll serve the same purpose. I probably wouldn't worry about it, unless you have an exceptionally heavy car or are doing hydraulics or really fast bags or something. If not, just be sure you're using some good quality studs and lugnuts, no cheap Chinese shit.
Just curious..........how much smaller does the axle "center" need to be in oprder for the wheel to fit?
Excellent point. If you turn down that hub, you brakes are gonna be floating all over the place. Then you will have to make a spacer to make the drum fit the way it should. Not good.
I have a 73 Mercury Comet rearend in my 51 Ford. I have the worst luck, but my axles fit my stock 51 wheels.
leave a step in the axle hub for the brake drum to register on turn the area outside the drum for the wheel to register on.
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. The wheels have a "lip" so the axle wouldn't need to be turned all the way down to the brake drum
Rich, To elaborate more on your question, wheels are made either HUB centric or LUG centric. Old manufacturing materials and methods dictated using hub centric design. The availability of better materials like stronger studs, etc. allowed a switch to lug centric. You also have to take the vehicle weight into consideration. There is a lot of difference between a 68 Imperial and a 98 Civic. Aftermarket wheel makers usually offer small rings to go in the space between your hub and your wheel to make them work in a hub centric manner. Just use due caution and you should have any trouble. If you have any doubts, high quality studs are cheap insurance.
I just installed a Maverick rear end in my 49' shoebox and the wheels fit fine. ??? You could also go to a junk yard and pick up some cheep steel wheels and use them.?? Charlie
Scott, what I have is a 55 chevy210 with a 1980 camaro rear. The wheels are 14in. outlaw 2's but like I said there is probably say 1/4 in. at least between hub and rim. So it's not a real heavy car but not a light weight either.Still think it'll be alright?
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