1970 Satellite question....xchanxce to buy...

Hi. First all i have some kind of a bug,everytime a type a c, an x pops up in front of it! I xcan purxchase a 70 Satellite with a good running 383/4 spd(not sure if it is original) and is pretty straight e**cept for rear qtrs. and floor boards are semi bad and a little rust in the trunk. Is 2K sound like a good prixce. Any thoughts greatly apprexciated,Thanks, Bill

 

I'd check the VIN. If its an original 383 4-speed, two door '70 Satellite and everthing's pretty cool except what you've mentioned....I'd be on it like a hobo on a ham sandwich. Sounds like a fun car and the way prices are on MOPARs these days you can always get back what you put in it.

 

pay real close attention to the torsion bar mts and the rear spring mts these cars are notorious for rot there they sell the parts to replace but its kinda like tourque boxes on a mustang ounce they start to sag its hard to git em backbut 2000 is a good price

 

Replace your keyboard. They have a little chip inside of them, they tell the computer what letter you pressed. Sometimes they fail, and you wind up with wierd **** like that.

 

I have a 68 with a road runner hood. 383/727 atuo. That sounds like a good deal. You can look at the build information on the front driver fender where there is a stamped metal tag with codes on it. That sounds like a good price. Like the others said check the rot on the undercarriage cause there isn't a frame.

www.moparts.com

www.allpar.com

I am just finishing up reworking the front suspension. What a pain in the ****.

I'd buy it if I had 2K.

 

Thanks for the help so far....I am more of a bike guy but I love old cars and felt this would be a good price. I never had a Mopar before so I need all the info I can get.Bill

 

"Spreading the gospel of traditional hot rods and kustoms to hoodlums worldwide."

So.. how, exactly, does this belong here? Would you qualify it as a traditional hot rod, or a traditional custom?

 

Are you the off topic police?

A $2000 big block 4-speed MOPAR is a topic that's a lot closer to the 'gospel' than all the non-automotive chit-chat I see on this board.

 

Depends on what color the wheels are I guess.

BillJ a good running B/B and 4 gear is worth the asking price.

Those are a uni-body, they not only get thin on the torsion bar mounts but you also need to take a good look at the front spring pockets for the leafs and there is an air box behind the firewall ( below the cowl vent) called the horns that rusts out on 'em. it'll get your feet wet in the rain.

Give it a good look at the bottom of the windshield posts as they get a little thin and below the back gl***.

BTW X is next to C maybe your fingers are too fat.

 

Try yer hands at replacing that keyboard....then maybe a set of plugs & wires.
Kidding. Too much coffee this morning.

 

Naw, I was just curious.

But since you rehashed this, which one WOULD it fall under?

 

Yes It's worth it,if it's a factory set up

 

I think it's that ehmmm, stuff, he got on the keyboard...

 

I love that body style! Two grand is a good price if it runs and drives. If the underhood stuff is all original and intact the drivetrain is worth 2k in parts if you include the suspension/linkages/air cleaner/manifolds/etc. Lately I have been seeing little stuff like w/shield trim going to 200 bucks when ten years ago that was the whole car on a good day. Who would have though. I bought the car below for 1200 or so. Red/red 383 4-speed now w/ solid cam 448, 4 speed and 4:30's.

My '66: (I guess you could say it's a custom, nothing is original and one side pipe is made from an old driveshaft )

 

Thanks for more info. As for the keyboard problem, it was just stuck keys,alot easier fix than expected, I ran virus scans and did a restore on my computer and my wife comes home and says my boy was eating ice cream while surfing and problem solved. I will check all those spots on the underside and elsewhere and see if it is the original motor(sure sounds good).Thanks again,this site is great. Bill

 

I'm partial to the 68 model myself.

I am just finishing the front suspension rebuild on it. You will be looking at around $500.00 for parts including bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm (ouch big money), idler arm, shocks, torsion bar clips and seals, etc. I also did new brake pads, master cylinder, front wheel cylinders, and a new key chain. Very important touch the key chain.

On the plus side you will invent cuss words and think the most vile thoughts during the whole process.

I just set mine on the ground and the driver side looks like a low rider while the p***enger side is ok. I can't wait to crawl under it one more time.