Projects 31 Ford RPU Y Block Steering

Ive been working on a 31 RPU, with the hopes of running a F100 steering box, but keep running into problems clearing it. I would like to have this truck full fender with a closed hood. I am running a front engine, and bellhousing mount to help free up the sides of the block.

How did people set up the steering before the Vega box was available? Pics would be great as I cant find many that are helpful.

Thanks,
Dan Nelson

 

Any photos of where you’re trying to place it and maybe a description of the issues your having other than it doesn’t fit?

Off the top of my head @Blue One is running a y block and “push pull” style steering. Not sure if it’s a f box or not.

 

You could always use a rear dump log manifold.The T bird used them.That would put the exhaust pipe well behind the box.The oil filter is in a tough spot,but using a shorty,or a remote would solve that.

 

There's more room in my 48 Tudor sedan than in an A but heres how I got around the steering box. I use a short filter to clear the steering column.

Clark here on the HAMB and others on here put Yblocks in A's...a search may help get you more info.

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You might look at the Reds Headers rear dump for the y block. Or the 57 bird left side as mentioned above. Those are a little pricey, the bird and pass car are the same on the right side. Depends on the whole layout, clutch linkage, etc.

http://reds-headers.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=173

I think Sanderson still makes a bird header, also off the rear. A tbird has the steering box tight to the front 2 cylinders. Maybe an FPA header would work.

Not cheap, but first rate. I've got a set on my bird.

http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers2.htm

 

I tweaked some F100 headers, (pie cut them just under the where they join the heads), to pull them in a bit at the bottom to clear the chassis rails, with some off-set engine mounts. F100 box fitted where I wanted it. You might like to try that?
I've not fitted hood sides, but you might get away with just a bulge?
I took the exhaust tail pipe off the top an extension piece on the back of the header to keep it tucked up out of sight.

 

Thanks for the ideas guy. Im going to take the body off today now that I know where the box, and firewall are located. It will make it easier to mount the motor with only the frame, and steering box as obstacles.

 

This is where Im at after hours of nudging and raising and lowering the engine. I have 3 choices, run the engine higher, build a hump into the floor, and keep the F100 steering. The second option is a Vega box, and drop the engine down to fit the trans under the floor. Third option, try a F1 box. I will also be changing the rear of the tranny to a truck tail shaft housing to move the shifter forward.

 

Have you centred the motor, or could you push it off centre an inch or so to help ?
I’ve heard of some doing so with other motors, but don’t know what effect it has on everything else, or whether it would even help with a Y block.

 

That front sump pan may interfere with the cross steering linkages. Truck pans are rear sump and might buy you some room.

Mustang box can also be used for side steer depending on which era you're shooting for.

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It is done by the factory all the time. OP, have you considered nudging the engine over a bit to make clearance around the steering box? Just keep the driveline angles in mind. And remember it reduces clearance on the other side

 

Can you move the box backwards? More header room, but maybe not enough brake/clutch pedal room?

My brother's 29 A pickup with a Y block has the box a bit farther back than stock I think. He mounted his to a pillow block type on top of the frame. And he used lakes style headers so he didn't have to cram all the pipe inside the frame. And he has 55 Chevy hanging pedals. So, lots different, but at least consider it for your application.

I know moving the box back will cause a more vertical column, and the wheel will be flatter. My 32 sedan has the wheel kinda flat compared to modern cars, and it's actually really comfy on long drives. I can rest my forearms on the wheel.

 

The F1 box will drop the column down and change the angle of the column and steering wheel some while leaving the pitman arm and drag link the same. That will give you a little more room at the rear port for exhaust.
If it’s just the exhaust you are agonizing over, don’t. If you can build the car, you can build a decent exhaust system for it. With some flanges and some u-bends you can build your own headers to fit in your space. Japchris lucked out and found a set he could modify, nice work. You can build something like his or just a “tubing manifold” style like Red’s headers does. That would be my choice since you want to run a hood. All you need is a Sawzall with a 24 tpi metal blade, some left and right tin snips and something to weld with. Don’t be afraid to build your own, it’s just another part of building a hot rod.


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Im picking up a loaner F1 box, and have a rear sump pan if needed. I will update in a week or so when I have some more parts to play with.

 

The engine is off center a little, but that doesnt concern me if thats what works.

 

I have a 34 pu with Y block and F100 steering. Oil filter pointed straight at the steering box. I ran remote filter and worked out perfect. Sorry no pic. my block plate is vintage Hildebrant but I'm sure new ones are available .