I need to fabricate feed and return hard lines for my '54. What to use? I was thinking of this. I was hoping for steel but can't find any. Is aluminum OK? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2516?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrIf3BRD1ARIsAMuugNv1sQlJ4Do-HlOjB6r-RmYT8_WeKQfNJMvPMUu78SaCSYmvYzwTGiwaAtmPEALw_wcB
I have used aluminum for fuel lines from the tank to the engine before a couple of times with no problems encountered.
I would prefer steel. I think aluminum may crack from fatigue or work hardening. Though I do have aluminum lines from the fuel block to the carbs on my model A, but I watch those and I expect to change them out periodically. From the tank to the pump I'd go with steel.
Just use 5/16 or 3/8 steel brake line. All the same hard union fittings as the brake system. But use the flare tool to put a slight bulb on the end when you want to transition to a clamped on rubber hose.
Cunifer or nicop. Whick is a nickel copper combo. Bends easy, flares great, and is just plain great to work with. Got mine at Napa, dont have the part number, but used the 3/8. bought it in a 25 foot roll. Used it for brake and fuel lines.
Aluminum fuel line is for race cars. somehow I've driven 22,000 or so miles on my race car that has aluminum line, I should probably be worried about it fatiguing.
Steel brake line would work, as said above.. @squirrel did you flare the lines or? Curious how flaring Al lines will work.
If you want regular steel tube for the fuel line, here's a link. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220138 The one downside to coiled tubing is straightening it back out. Tubing straightening tools are commercially available although it probably wouldn't be too difficult to make one.
Personally, I'd go with the nickel copper tubing because it's rustproof and very easy to work with. But, if you want steel tubing, most any hydraulic supply store should have 3/8 OD steel hydraulic tube in 20 ft straight lengths. You'd have to find this locally rather than online as shipping on a couple 20 footers would be killer expensive.
N.A.P.A. has a line name Ballcamp. It's 25 foot rolls, comes from 3/16 to 3/4 for just exactly what your doing. There's a very easy way to un-roll it. I posted a how to a while back with photos. Pretty sure it was someone else asking how to, I just replied.
Here in oZ, you cannot get anything road registered that has anything other than steel bundy fuel lines, and the correct fuel approved rubber hose where it absolutely must be flexible. Fatigue is part of it, the other is damage by flying rocks or sudden unexpected "off road events" . The government and politicians and insurance companies in their wisdom also worry about how very soft metal (copper and aluminium) fuel lines might behave in a horrific freeway accident. So over here, if you front your rod for road registration with gleaming polished non ferrous fuel lines, you will be told "no number plates for you my boy". Take it home and bring it back when its fixed.
You can buy the Nicopp fuel line from/through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3/8+nico...K8P&sprefix=3/8+nI,aps,281&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_6 It's about twice the price of a same length roll of zink coated steel is though. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3/8+stee...8+steel+fuel+line,aps,344&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_19 The steel does take a bit more effort to do the bends right. I haven't flared any NiCopp so I don't know how that goes. I don't see the reason to run aluminum unless are building a drag car where every ounce means something. maybe a tad of Bubba factor for a street car if it is at all visible.
Gasoline, alcohol, or any solvent will not hurt the NiCopp line. It is a copper alloyed with nickel for strength and corrosion prevention. Bends and flares much easier than steel, but maintains enough strength to be used as brake lines too. Volvo has been using it for something like 20+ years for brake lines....and those Swede's don't under-engineer anything.
The 3/8" aluminium fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump on my RPU are still in perfect condition after 26 years of service. It was sold as fuel line at Super Shops.
That's how you say it...but if you're searching for it on the internets, might try the Balkamp spelling instead?
I used 3/8” Ni cop for the fuel line on my RPU and then 5/16” to the carbs. All the brake lines are 3/16” Ni cop. Everything else is also plumbed with Ni cop. I don’t think I will ever use anything else, I like it so much.
with todays fuels and aluminum line may have some issues (notice I said MAY) and something to consider. Line sections available at most every auto parts store gives you the security of replacement on the road
That's exactly what I have done on every car I have built, I just purchase links of tubing at NAPA. HRP
Rigid in the engine. Rigid from the tank to 6-8” before the fuel pump. You only need hose to the pump for vibration. I’ve used aluminum from the tank to the fuel pump for years. Always mount in Adell clamps.
Same here; has always worked well. And as for aluminum fuel lines... all the aircraft I've worked on had aluminum fuel and brake lines; no issues as long as they were well supported using Adell clamps.
I plumbed my roadster with 3/8 stainless fuel line, both supply and return. Terribly hard to bend and work but looks outstanding polished and will last for eternity. I plumbed my 41 truck with 3/8's aluminum from summit. Rolls out easily on the floor, bends with your hands, used Russel compression fittings at firewall and Russel adapters to flex line at the tank. Because of the flexibility I could make the entire run out of one piece and snake it down the frame rail. Perfecto!
I use copper line for fuel line on almost every car I have built for the last 50+ years and never had an issue. Bends and flairs easy, doesn't rust. Just fasten it down so it doesn't move, and use a rubber line from the copper to the engine for vibration.
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