Technical Coolant internal problem, 1962 327 sbc I need help

Hi, it's been a while since my last post, I've been very active here years ago with questions and tips on building a hot rod. Ive ended up my project, it was running for a while but had many different things going on through years and let the project aside. Now it's time to put my model A back on the road. I've build this car entirely from scratch and the only thing I havent done is the engine rebuild cause I have very limited knowledge in internal mecanic and I will need your help.

I have coolant in the oil pan, I removed plugs and coolant dripped on my foot on cyl#6, I removed the intake manifold yesterday to localized the problem so here I am, I need your advice. Some ports are rusty or have "sludge", and coolant in valves. One of the intake bolt was particularely rusty when I removed it (first on driver side in front). Here's some pictures, I need to be guided, any advices will be greatly appreciated. Could this be faulty intake gaskets, head gaskets? If you need more details let me know. Thank you very much. 1500 miles since complete rebuild 1962 327 sbc with triple deuce offy intake and ford holley carbs. My helper is here with me.

Also, could this be a breathing problem, I have the rear 327 "canister" and downtube and oil tube breather, do I need breather on valve covers or pcv? Or it's not related at all?

 

Time to pull the heads, maybe magna flux and resurface them and new gaskets

 

Agree with partssaloon!

 

Thanks for your response. The engine and head has been magnafluxed and totally rebuilded by a reputated shop in my area and it has only about 1500 miles on it since. Am I that lucky?

 

Clockwork -

You are having problems...right ?
Don't be so quick to dismiss the above posters help.

You have one or more of the following -
1. Leaking head gasket(s). Uneven deck surfaces, incorrect head bolt torque application.
2. Leaking intake manifold gasket(s) at the water transfer.
3. Cracked/broken cylinder head. This could be anywhere, port, valve seat (more likely).
4. Cracked block, uneven deck surfaces, incorrect head bolt torque application.
5. No, or incorrect head bolt sealing in the block (sealant required).

With that much coolant in the intake port, your leak is pretty massive. Inspect ALL of the gaskets carefully for signs of leakage.

Start your hunt, don't leave anything to...it "was" ok last time I drove it..!

Mike

 

Superman had Kryponite and reputable shops have bad days.

Need to check everything out.....

Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thank you Mike, I'm sorry if my answer sounded offensive that was not my intention, maybe I didn't express myself the right way, (Im french). Im not dismissing any advices. Im just surprise I have to go through this again that quick, but Im conscious its totaly possible ans there is definitely something wrong so yes Im gonna do what has to be done. You all have good advices and I appreciate it.

 

I agree with the above. Pull the heads and pan and clean all of that coolant out of everything. Check all gasket surfaces and look for cracks. I had a SBC head crack out of the blue... no overheating issues before hand.

 

Yes, do the work now (or have it done if needed). Hopefully, nothing else is damaged. That's a great looking sedan, A! Sorry, couldn't resist. Looks like you have some good help, too. Share some more photos, lots of us like/ have Model A's.

 

I had the same problem.they magged the the head and it was fine.then they pressure checked it and found a crack in the chamber.good luck

 

Gaskets are cheap.

at the very least Intake gaskets and head gaskets.

you have the intake off already, unbolt the exhaust manifolds and the heads are off.

take the heads to a machine shop and have them inspect them for cracks and warpage.

I am not a fan of reusing head bolts if I don’t have a history of the engine and how many times the head has been off.

see if you can borrow a straight edge and check the block for warpage and any obvious cracks.

best case, a gasket set, some Bolts and fluids and your off and running.
Worst case?!?!
Well who the fart knows.

And as a bonus “ pamplemousse” only word I know in French !!!
Good luck keep us posted.



killer looking car !!

 

I just woke up and I'm sitting here rubbing my eyes wondering why the goofy oil fitting/line? It's temp probe!

 

If you do remove the heads, try to do it carefully if possible so you can look for signs of leakage compared to the other cylinders. Gaskets are cheap. If its obvious the gasket was what failed,then clean the surface and stick a new one in place. If you have an idea which side is leaking, only pull that one head. If you guessed wrong, pull the other one. If you are lucky, the gasket just failed. At that point you can reinstall the heads or have them pressure tested before reinstalling. Kind of a crapshoot. You could make some blockoff plates and test the heads yourself.

 

Hahaha! temp sensor exactly! it's time for a coffee!

 

Thanks man! Here's some pics

 

Thanks ! Head bolts have been replaced when the engine was rebuilded, is it better to use new ones when I re-install?

 

Next time you pull the heads or intake un cork the two drain plugs, one on each side of the block. You won't have standing water/antifreeze in water ports. If you pull the heads and don't have water in one or more cylinders go buy a lotto ticket. Sorry to see this happen to such a nice build.

 

Yes, the factory canister/draft tube combined with the front fill tube/vented cap are adequate (just not inviro friendly). You mentioned the shop that rebuilt the engine, If they are as reputable as you say, they may be interested in helping you solve your problem. Just a thought, doesn't hurt to ask.

 

Ok thanks, yes for sure Il go back to see what they think about it and Ill also bring the heads to make them tested.

 

Clockwork, drain the oil before you go any further and check to see if there is coolant in the oil. Leaking coolant around the head bolts will wind up in pan. At least you may be able to narrow down your list of possible problems. The inside of the head and the valley area look too clean for the coolant to be leaking into the oil. Good luck.

Pat

 

Coolant that has been the in pan with the engine running makes a gray nasty milkshake. I don't see that in your photos. Just green coolant. In your third photo, what is the small object in the valley behind the intake lifter? What did you use for sealant on the head bolts?

 

First of all, DRAIN THE BLOCK; the coolant can cross contaminant if you don't. That could have already happened, and will make evaluating what's going on more difficult. Then pull the heads, and dry them off to prevent rusting. I'm actually guessing you don't have a cracked block or head, or even a blown head gasket. I agree on coolant getting by a bolt/threads. Good luck. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

Now I see Lonnie/brigrat basically said the same thing.

 

Its just a small piece of plastic, I don't know which sealant they used on bolts. There was coolant in the oil pan coffee/cardboard color mixed with oil, it's the first thing I noticed. Then I removed the plug and coolant dripped on the floor from cylinder 6.

 

Get out your receipt and look at the labor side showing the time doing each item. It’s the easiest way to see exactly what was done. If there is just one line for labor .... then they are not as reputable as you think.

 

I went through 2 (350) blocks that got rebuilt but had coolant leaking out. Both blocks were cracked at the same place drivers side mid block. Yup, it happens!

 

I brought them an empty block with the crank and heads all apart. A long list of things done, I can't find the papers. They did many engine for my friends too. https://www.moteurultra.ca/Home.php

 

I don't see how properly installed head bolts can leave standing coolant in an intake port with closed valve.
Is that angle iron underneath the rocker studs? If so why, I have never seen that trick before, must be a Canadian thing?

 

If it was me, I would pull the engine get everything checked and rebuild it.

 

I am with Mike VV ,
I would check the heads closely.
I see antifreeze in the #4 intake port and the #5 port,,,,,,could it be that it has 2 cracked ports like that ?
I don’t know the history of these heads,,,it is possible,,,especially if any ports have been modified and maybe got too close to a water jacket .
If the heads have a crack in the port,,,it would be easy to miss it with a mag check .

Looking at the rockers,,,,,is that double nuts on top of the pivot ball ?
Using an extra nut for a spacer ?
I have never seen anything like that .

Tommy

 

Those appear to be raised guideplates, just installed upside down putting the pushrod guide section out of view down close to the original pushrod slots in the head. you can see it in one of the first photos..

I agree, leaking head bolts won't fill up the intake port in the head....coolant from leaking head bolts come out under the bolt head, in the valvecover area and milks the oil..

I would have the head pressure tested, not just magnafluxed for cracks...the crack could be midway in the intake port where a mag test won't be visible.

Clockwork 31:
I'm I seeing this right, cylinder #4 and #5 have coolant puddled on the closed intake valves?? both sides are affected??
What do all the spark plugs look like??
Can you post pics of both faces of the the used intake gaskets, it they aren't destroyed??