Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

Sorry guys, I wasn't looking for a cup, I should have said; I have to find the correct location to install the upper half of the cup mount. I have a spare front axle assembly to use for mock up. The plan is to make the upper cup from a piece of 1 in. thick steel and insert it 1/2 in. into the bottom plate and weld it in. I think this will drop the ball down 1/2 in. which is in the ballpark of what happens if you split the wishbone. I think I can cut this on a rotary table, but if not I have a friend who can cut in on a CNC.
This is the fun part.
BTW the the adapter HRW sells for putting 28 spline slide in axles in banjo rears with stock or Lincoln brakes is slick. The machining required could be done on a mill but it would require making a mounting fixture.

 

The axle bells went to the machine shop today and I got curious about some of the repair pieces I bought for the cab. Take a look and let me know if they are stacked together in the right order.
The a pillar repair piece doesn't fit well with the other pieces. I may not have to use it; If I do , it will be reworked.

 

I got the bells back,blasted and painted them and replaced the carrier bearing races. I checked my old Motors manual for assembly procedures for the rear end . It looks like I need the new axles to get the shims (gaskets) correct.

counterbore for new axle seal.

race removed.

weld pass shrunk the old race and it practically falls out

new races installed. I heated the housing with a propane torch and put the race in ice for a couple of minutes. It went in about 1/2 way to start and I used a block of aluminum to tap it down.

 

Housing is back together except brake backing plates; I ran out of sand.

These are the new axles and they are very nice. .010 gasket on the left bell and .008 on the right side. I have to check back lash this morning but it feels about right.

 

A nice setup. Who made the axle conversion parts? One observation, the brake shoe retaining clip/bracket needs knocking down a bit. It will not let the shoe sit right like it is.

 

Thanks Mart. I really stretched them trying to get the rear end apart. I ruined the drums. Hot Rod Works in Idaho. https://www.hotrodworks.com/. check out the website.

 

I checked the ring and pinion back lash this AM. .0045" . Spec is .003-.008.

 

The last 3 days I've been fabricating and reworking the original trans mount for the new transmission.

new feet for the original mount

The fabricated part that attaches to the trans had to be tacked in place to guarantee fit.


Welded and trimmed up trans adapter

Now I can flip the frame over and work on the wishbone ball mount. In all probability, I will have to rework or replace the part that bolts to the frame because of interference with the wishbone.

 

I'll have to cut the center drop out of the stock trans mount as it won't clear the wishbone. I went back and reinstalled the engine/trans to see if the was any way to move the stock style biscuits. That's where I quit tonight. The setup I posted above is what I'm going to use, but since I have to remove the center, I'm going to add some gussets to make the biscuit mounts stronger. I think it's kind of a rube goldberg looking mount, but it's going to allow me to not split the wishbone. I'll have some pictures tomorrow.

 

would this work?re-engineer the bracket in the photo so the bolts can drop out and weld the nuts to the top of the bracket.drill the heads of the bolts so they can be lockwired.do the same with the bolts holding in the buiscuits weld a captive nut to the brackets.either side you will have 3 drilled bolt heads lockwire the 3 together you could allways put a dot of weak loctite on the threads if you wanted to.with a lockwasher

 

i found these good the nut is able to move a little and aids getting the threads started

 

Here is the finished (?) trans frame mounts. I added some gussets and a square tube support that goes to the frame bottom bowing plate.

gussets added and center removed to clear the wishbone

After welding and trimming, this is the result.

The little strut is 1/4 " plate inserted into the 1/2 x 1/2 square tube.

 

2 more pictures.

The soapstone drawing is an estimate of the clearance to be cut in the plate and allow for wishbone movement during suspension travel.

 

Looks good Joal!

 

Here is a key piece of the puzzle and some pictures of it's installation.

Here is the business side and below is the back side that will be welded to the bottom of the plate.

Here it's mocked up to check the axle is square to the frame before welding.

I may have to move the hole in the plate to get it dead on. From the perch bolt to the center of the rear cross member it's between 1/16 and 3/32 different fight now. I'm thinking I should do a trial fit on the truck frame before moving/welding in place. The soapstone line is the minimum cut to clear the wishbone as the suspension moves.

 

Thanks, Sam. I was planning to make all these pieces and just swap them to the truck frame, but I'm not sure that's prudent now. You know the saying ......measure twice , cut once.

 

That looks like a great solution Joel! Please tell me more about the wishbone socket. Did you have that custom made?

 

I drew that up in Solid Works. I have an old copy and it's been a few years since I used it, so it took about a week to get it done. I was going to machine it myself on a rotary table,but I have a friend ( younger club member) who has access to CNC machines. I gave him the print and he did the 3D portion on a CNC lathe. Great Job! There is a little hand work to do; some radii to be blended . I'd love to post a picture of the solid model, but my copy of Solid Works won't run in any system above Windows Vista.

 

Another one of your talents and skills I knew nothing about, Excellent work. I wonder if one of our HAMBERs would know a way to convert your solid works program to a newer version? Anybody? Better yet you should make some up and sell them. I certainly could have use one of those on my Forty.

 

I inquired about an upgrade when I went to Windows 7 and it was over 3K back then. I was thinking about just printing a picture of the solid model for reference and a regular 3 view drawing plus cutaway for interested parties. I don't have any connections for running through a shop anymore.

 

I’m going to pull the engine and transmission, front sheet metal and anything else in the way to put the front cross member in with the correct radiator mount brackets.
Here is what was under the tar paper and tin flashing under my feet



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Ooh that's nasty.

 

Oh great another fun project! Looking forward to your posts on that floor replacement.

 

Must have been some serious body "shake" with that mess underfoot. Good luck with the repair.

 

There was just enough tin screwed to the rust, plus a double layer of tar paper ,to get by. As everyone can see, the A pillars are barely attached. The repair piece for the bottom hinge mount on the A pillar is not available. I have to make some stuff; I'm just not sure what and how many.

That was my reaction exactly.

I plan on getting all the chassis stuff done first, so , it might be fall before I get much done on the cab.
I plan on pulling the cab to facilitate the rear end replacement and new transmission install. All the pieces are made so it should go really smooth.
Ready to go

 

This is familiar, must have been the same guy who 'repaired' the floor in my convertible!!

 

Looks like my old convertible as well, and yes, those were shingles. Hahaa.

 

At least my floor is smaller.

 

Engine and trans is out. The engine will be stored on a stand while making changes to the chassis.

 

I like those lift brackets that attach to the block at the exhaust ports. You make those?