Technical Got her to start but won’t idle

Since a new fuel tank is to be installed and your have cleared the line from the tank to the fuel pump, I would refrain from putting a filter between the tank and pump. Mechanical fuel pumps will "push" fuel to the carb better than "pull" fuel from the long run to tank. I have seen instances that the engine will idle and operate ok at low speeds but starve for fuel under a load or at hiway speeds. With all the crud gone from your system I don't see the need for a filter before the pump and will increase fuel flow to the pump.

 

I'd still run a filter. Millions of vehicles had them installed between the tank and fuel pump with nary an issue. What starts out as a clean fuel system doesn't always stay that way, and a filter on the suction side of the pump can keep any debris from going where it doesn't belong.

 

You are correct. There is a good many old vehicles running an inline filter right after the tank. Merly saying that it is possible for them to impead fuel flow. I always liked the screw on jars on the fuel pump with replaceable filter. Easier than crawling under the car also. It's a personal choice.

 

If 'yours is like mine'......the gas tank is higher than the fuel pump so therefore like most liquids.......gas-runs-down-hill!
It will run out of the fuel line if its not attached to the fuel pump. IF it runs out it must have a clear line! I would do the KISS approach and install a fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb.
6sally6

 

I mentioned the filter before the fuel pump only because of the possibility of crap in the line and the tank. Crap could get into the pump and bugger the diaphragm and checks leading to more trouble.
With a new tank and clean, flushed line, all should be good and a filter between the pump and carb should do. Just my 2cents.

 

This is the longest week ever. Lol [emoji23] the tank should be here tomorrow *fingers crossed* and I’ll be driving by Saturday [emoji7] and I’ll be sure to take the advice about the brakes! Thank you bunches!


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Didn’t want to spoil the party before but make sure your sending unit is all spiffy like. Look over pick up tube for any build up and any rust at top area. I have a pin hole before that added to the fun . Glad you will be driving soon .

 

I got a new one awhile back , so I’m hoping it will register on the gauge correctly.


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https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=aKiRdDlnuNU





https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=cU4Ds81pE68



She’s running!!!! I can’t thank you all enough for all your patience, kind words, knowledge and motivation to get her going again!!!

I learned so much!! I however have one issue that wasn’t there previously. The generator light is staying on. Not sure why it would do this?? . That light would only come on when the car would die out, and now it’s staying on nonstop.




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go girl !!!

 

The GEN light will illuminate to tell you that there is a problem in the charging system. It is only supposed to light when first starting the engine - along with the OIL light - to prove that the bulbs aren't burned out. That would never do. It might sometimes flicker dimly at low RPM.

If it lights up otherwise, it means there is a problem. It could be as something as simple as the generator carbon brushes are stuck in the holders. But whatever the cause, that light is letting you know the battery is not being charged. It will last quite a while, so long as high current items like the headlights aren't used, but we're talking hours or maybe days, not weeks, and then the battery will be stone dead. Do you have a battery charger? Nod your head "yes"...

Watch especially for a GEN light that stays lit with the engine off - even key removed, meaning all the time.

Normally the voltage regulator cutout disconnects the battery when generator voltage output falls below charging voltage, or whenever engine is shut off. If the voltage cutout relay sticks, the battery voltage will backfeed into the generator windings and let all the magic smoke out. Disconnect the negative battery terminal right away if this situation ever occurs.

 

Your generator probably lost its magnetism during the time your car sat..by moving a couple wires around you can "re polarize" your generator and i bet it'll start charging again. Each old manufacturer had their own little process so check into that. Im sure someone will chime in here. Same exact thing happened with me and a 61 Olds I had.

 

Fan belt tight?

 

Do you have access to a multimeter? Most of the test will involve using one to measure actual values.

 

Give the polarization thing a go, really simple and you can look it up online easily. If the generator and regulator are old and of unknown age, best bet is to replace both. Good to know of a local auto-electric shop, they can rebuild yours and have it back to you in a few days. New regulators may or may not be in the parts stores, but you can have one in a few days online too.

 

Both the generator and regulator are simple, easily repairable or at least easily serviceable machines.

Here are some simple things you can do...
Check the wiring. High resistance in the wire will make the regulator think the battery is fully charged. Thus it will not charge.

Check all wiring connections. Get a little piece of fine sand paper and clean each and every connector, nut and washer.

Check to make sure the wire is in good order. Sometimes these wires have been “ farmer repaired” with the wrong gauge wire and poorly done connections.

Make sure the engine is properly grounded....if not correct and clean connections there.

Check and clean all connections to the regulator as mentioned above.

The regulator should ground through the mounting screws. Remove the screws and clean this up as you did all the wiring connections.

Carbon build up on the regulator contact points can cause this issue. Take off the regulator cap and clean the contact points. Simply pull a little strip of fine sandpaper 400 or so through the contact points.....until the paper pulls clean.
There’s videos about this on you tube.

Most of the time a simple clean up of connections, contact points and grounds will fix problems like this on a car that’s been inactive for a while.

 

Thank you guys! I will check on the fan belt and try to repolarize [emoji16] and gonna put the battery on the charger too, probably zapped the hell out of it driving it without generator charging bit. You guys are awesome [emoji173]️


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F-One has good procedures. Disconnect the battery ground cable first. Very easy to short out a " hot" wire.

 

It's easy to slip over the line into silliness about this kind of stuff but the voltage regulator manufacturers, fwiw, were very insistent (with bold type, cautions and warnings and everything) that is not the way to go about it. The claim is that using sandpaper will ruin the contact faces in short order. It will get things going again by the side of the road.

They recommend dressing the point faces with small curved jewelers files, and running them in a specific direction and cleaning with Carbon Tet. I found Naptha (Coleman stove and lantern fuel) is a good no-residue substitute and dragging a crisp brand new dollar bill soaked in naphtha through the closed points will keep the crud off. ($20 bill for those living in Alaska and California)

This kind of stuff is why Alternators are popular.

 

The smile on your face speaks volumes. Your determination and want to learn got your car back up and running, and your problem with the charging system (with the help from above posters) will soon be a thing of the past. Your level of motivation is inspiring.

 

Everything you posted is absolutely correct. The manuals point out that the contact points wipe in a certain direction. Filing across this direction can damage the contact points and shorten point/regulator life.....
I agree with what you say and I'm glad you explained it in more detail.
But....
A good jewler's file may be difficult to find. When you do find one....using it incorrectly can cause a problem as mentioned.

If this was my problem, this is what I would do if I still had charging problem after checking the wires.
Personally I feel that abrasive paper technology has improved quite a bit since these regulators were in everyday service. A file may be too aggressive especially for a novice.
It's my opinion that with some high quality wet dry paper of a very fine grit.....say 600-1500 may be the most conservative route to go in my opinion.
Reviewing this topic....I would probably use 800-1000 grit very conservatively.
My goal would be to just remove the carbon and not get into refacing the metal.
I would follow up with the Naptha/zippo/Coleman fuel with a dollar bill as Truck64 mentioned.

Below is video....
I'll admit I cringed when he dressed some of those in a circular motion but all in all I think he pretty conservative with it...(tractor)

Here's another concering british cars but it applies....

Simple tests for the generator..British car

Generator rebuild...(tractor)

Chrysler master tech Generator/Regulator service 1948 filmstrip grainy but lots of info....

 

This is what I did and now the light is off.


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Don't you love it when plan comes together.
Go for a drive again and again until you have it completely sorted, don't be to surprised if a new hick up pops up.
Does it drive and stop straight, how about the last time oil has been changed and the car serviced?
Cars that have been parked for a while don't always like to go back into service without speaking out a bit.
Just remember you got it back on the road, enjoy the moment and you will be able to fix it again if needed.
Glad you are having fun.
Great work!

 

I need a tattoo like Christie has . ​

 

Way to go Christie! The satisfaction of fixing her YOURSELF sure is sweet isn't it?!...and we NEED more pics. of your car!....( HAMBers LOVE PICTURES!!!)

 

Well since she’s running now, I’ve switched gears and have been doing other odds and ends stuff to her. She hasn’t had windows in her since I got her 13 years ago so I’ve been putting them in one by one. My brother made me v8 speaker grills, so I cut into my door panels to put those in too. Oh and been putting some of the trim pieces on too. [emoji16] (that’s kicking my ass currently [emoji23][emoji23])


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And please don’t judge my panels. ‍♀️[emoji23] I’ve never done upholstery work before, so I know they have tons of flaws. Lol she’s so imperfect, I have a rear window in but am missing the corner window since it’s cracked, lol, so I’m basically putting things that I DO already have onto her, it’s a mishmash situation because of that but oh well. One piece at a time right? lol I love her in all her imperfect glory though [emoji16]


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if that's your first attempt-you should already be doing this for a living!!

 

Awww![emoji5] that’s so kind! I see soooooo many flaws [emoji20]


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