Technical New Engine lacks power SBC in the Studebaker-RESOLVED

14096217 Iron heads, are centerbolt. They are 1987+ (and later) and feature 72 degree center bolts. Valves are 1.94 and 1.5 with 64cc combustion chambers. 55-86 did not have 72 degree center bolts.
These heads were also used on Marine 350 engines, including TBI marine engine.
Valve covers for small block Chevy's had perimeter bolts holding them down prior to 1987. Starting in 1987 they went to the center bolt hold down.
These are TBI heads made by Chevy and sold to OMC with another casting number to show they are for a boat.
Were are your hold down bolts located?

 

@1946caddy I hadn't read the links that you had sent, I understand your comments much better now.
Yes, I guess they could be called TBI heads (four hold downs across the top of the valve cover). I got this from "Hot Rodders" web site "Those heads you speak of were probably one of the better heads in the 1980s before the Vortec head was introduced. Although not aluminum they were the cast iron version of the L98 head. They are real similar to the 217 head which was used on a marine application and a crate motor as well." based on that I thought were at least an OK head. I am using a Howard Hydraulic flat tappet 110931-11, the specs are a little different than the ones listed on the Jegs site, a little more lift but (at least to me) not a significant amount of difference. The thing that I noticed was vacuum at 1000 RPM was less than what I was seeing (Jegs showed 14 inches, I was getting about 15 inches of vacuum)
With a little luck a box of parts will show up today and I can start reassembly. Thanks for the research that you shared, that was info I should have looked for, however, I was using what I had. Looking back this was not the motor I should have built, because the block was junk and I paid too much for a "core".
My father in law (86 YO) has asked more than once about using a crate engine. How much fun would that be?

 

It sounds like either fuel or spark. I would put a piece of clear line in the fuel line to see if full flow is maintained as the revs increase. If you have an old mechanical distributor, I would try that. It is easier to trouble shoot. Try shorting a plug to block and see if the spark dies as the revs increase.
Warren

 

@wuga
##I've used two different fuel pumps (electric) and when you pull the top of the carburetor off they are always full of fuel.
##I've swapped distributors (both Pertronix that work fine in another car)
##The carburetor came off of another car that I was driving.
New valve springs going to be installed tonight/tomorrow.

thanks for your suggestions.

 

See what happens with the springs and take your time setting the lash. It will at least rule one thing out.

 

I believe we have it whipped I installed new valve springs AND actually degree'd in the cam, it was darn simple but my old brain had a hard time wrapping itself around the concept. I made it far more complex than it was. I actually read the instructions on the cam card I also advanced the cam 4 degrees and that brought it into spec. @bobss396 per your advice I took my time setting the valves and actually did it once and then went back and rechecked.

To change out the springs I pressurized the cylinder using a SnapOn compression checker, several fittings to make it "easy". I pressurized the chamber (or so I thought) but as I screwed down the tool the valve and retainer just went down too?? I finally pulled the adapter and hooked air to it, no air??? I found a Shrader valve in the end of the fitting. I removed it and finally started making progress.

Thanks to all that offered suggestions, I appreciate your taking your time (and I am sure many of you were glad it was me and not you

I guess I should retake the picture in the Avatar to more closely resemble how it looks today.

 

Did you drive it yet?
Don’t see any road test results

 

So it wasn't the Eddy?

 

I knew there was nothing wrong with the carburetor or ignition since I switched them back and forth on my 38 Chevy, the 38 would hit the 5500 rev limiter damn quick with the Edelbrock, either one of them.

 

So where’s the burnout video ?

 

Glad you got it whipped.

Between the platform for mic, and the valvespring compressor, you have some wild homemade tools.
What else is in the toolbox ?

 

Kinda remember mentioning something about the valve springs a long time ago.

 

I've been letting my engine builder install and degree my cams lately. Really little cost for all the good it does. Kudos on figuring it out.

 

We still don't know if we have a "problem solved". I'm really biting my tongue, though.

 

What was the pressures on the old ones versus the new ones?

 

Chirp, chirp, chirp....

 

Didn't check them. I don't have a "good" way to do so other than a bathroom scale and a 20 ton press. This was a case of "it's not that expensive plus the shop that did my heads told me that they would probably be OK if the cam wasn't agressive" I wish I would have just changed them I've bit myself more than once being cheap.

 

@'49 Ford Coupe
I've been in the middle of a dryer vent relocation That entailed cutting holes in sheet rock and making things fit that didn't really want to go together, plus prepping to replace three windows. I am over 75, things don't move as fast as I'd like.

sorry that I didn't make it clear that the car seems to be running OK. I need to do a front end alignment and possible front tire balance job. The speedometer quits at about 45 or 50 MPH, just goes to zero. The exhaust is too low. There are some things to fix but at least I can drive it.

I took my 85 year old father in law for a twenty minute ride today, he was happy to be able to ride in it instead of look at a partially done project. He rode two hours so we could celebrate Father's Day together. I wish my kids or at least one of them had the interest that he does.

 

@'49 Ford Coupe
I had not listened to the Warren Zevon song until now, thanks for sharing, I will share it over on the Studebaker Drivers Club, a lot of truth in that song

 

If there's a positive in all this, at least the weak springs were good for cam break in.

 

if you are changing valve springs and do not have a compressor to hold the valve up try removing the spark plug move the piston down in the cylinder and take a four foot length of clothes line and push three feet of it into the cylinder run the piston back up until the clothes line stops it from going any higher and it will hold the valve in the shut position

 

I heard that many years ago, never have tried it.

 

Good to hear you got it resolved.

You're over 75, and your father in law is just 85? That might qualify you as a cradle robber.....

......not that there's anything wrong with that.

 

I've done the clothesline trick (actually a USB cable folded in half, which isn't traditional) while 300 miles from my home garage. Used two open end wrenches in an upside down V under the rocker nut to compress the retainer while my helper installed the keepers. It worked, but I hope I never have to do it again.

Phil