Couple of simple questions. Mustang drums, shoes and wheel studs on the front. Following install procedure from this link..... I realize he's doing rears but same principles should apply to fronts. Secondary shoes (longer lining) goes to the rear, correct? Also, the rears have the long bar w/spring to separate the two shoes. The fronts do not, correct? I'm sure I'll have more questions later! Thanks!
Correct. I just went back and added the Mustang self adjusters in the rear today while I was replacing an axle. Drums are a pain in the *** already but those added a whole new balancing act trying to get the lower spring onto the lever without disengaging the cable. If you're doing that too, good luck!
The numb nut in the video forgot the special washer at the top anchor... BIG error. I start with the rear shoe too, but insert the equalizer bar before the front shoe goes on. Makes it a lot easier. He also used no brake lube on metal-to-metal wear points.
Bob is right some of the utube videos are like ebay listings.in one they have no clue what they are doing in the other they do not have clue what they have.sad part is in a lot of cases they are taken as gospel
Thanks everyone, I got 'em installed! I'm only doing the front brakes right now. Just rebuilt the front suspension and I want to get the front end on the ground then remove the entire rear suspension as a unit and rebuild that. I found another vid that I used for brake install..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HcnlI0KVcQ I used his trick of installing the upper primary spring first and then install the self adjuster and upper secondary spring. Worked great! Yes, I lubed all 6 contact points on the backing plate along with the adjusters themselves. I noticed on both vids no one installed the big funny shaped washer on top that kinda holds the shoes on. The stock '54 piece is way too thick to accommodate springs and the cable loop so, I made my own. Found some s**** metal that was much thinner (but still thick enough), traced 'em out, drilled 2 holes and cut the shape on my bandsaw. They fit perfectly! All done!
I saw your post on hotrodders.com someone had a good eye. The original post about the self adjuster conversion mentioned that issue with the thickness of the spring retainer sadly that member left in a huff and took the info and pictures with him. The new adjuster wheel does not always align with the 52-54 drum a Dremel cutting wheel can fix that as some have.
Lots of people don't know what to lube on drum brakes, or what to use. There used to be actual brake lube, now I use high temperature white lube. Past the 6 backing plate pads, do the adjuster threads, where the adjuster contacts the shoes, the pivot washer at the top anchor, the shoes where they contact the anchor, a dab on the self adjuster cable guide where it contacts the shoe, the ends of the equalizer bar where it contacts the shoe, the parking brake pin that goes through the shoe, the wheel cylinder pin slots. If anyone wants, I'll do a doctored up picture in Paint. You don't need much lube, less is better than more as too much can get on the linings. I was ASME certified in drum and disc brakes, I recall taking the drum training in 1976. Disc brakes have their own lube points.
Yeah Jeff, I found that out the hard way! The adjuster lined up with the hole perfectly on the right side but the left side was a different story. The star wheel wasn't even close! I just cut a new adjuster hole next to the old one.
Most old Fords have the window in the wrong place for the newer style adjusters. I left mine manual since I drive maybe 4000 miles a year. They are due for an adjustment soon.
The Jalopy Journal
