Started mocking them up on the car a little bit tonight. It’s going to take more “finessing” than I had thought but I think I’ve got a plan. The two “trouble” spots at the moment are getting the two center primaries to dump down before they hit the intake but then make sure they are coming away from the block enough to clear the bottom of the block that has a big ridge/flange/ flare at the bottom and to also clear the fly wheel etc. I think I’ve got just enough room to cut them close to the bend and either cut the end going into the flange at an angle to let it tilt out or further down pie cut the tube to come away from the block. I’m trying to not have to create or tweak any bends and just use the nice smooth ones I have second is clearing the alternator, a few sets of sbc headers I tried in cleared so I know how to get around it. I’m just trying to find the graceful approach. this would also be the time to consider if I want to try to move the alternator. Don’t think there’s really room on the passenger side unless it’s up high Near the valve cover like the factory AC on a GM probably just leave it and work around it. doing a lot of hold it up to the car and squint at the moment lol.
You could also make a couple spacers to move the intake out a bit to give you more room. My citric acid was delivered yesterday.
@Six Ball I had been keeping that in the back of my head. Thankfully with these pipes being mirrors of each other if I mess it up it’s easy to start over. This is the AC position I was considering for a high alternator mount but it looks like more work to make the belts work and keep tight: good belt wrap than just building the header around it. I’ve got it mocked up now and I think I can add one jog in that front primary and clear everything though I am concerned about having the heat so close to the alternator. thinking the answer might be use the larger externally regulated gm alternator for mock up and then run a small denzo alternator which would gain me a couple inches of room between a primary and the back of the alternator
All very hi tech over here lol the bends are the same side to side other than the top 90 deg bend goes the other way so I just mocked it up with the leads sticking over the fender instead of towards the head. i played mental tetris with it all night and this morning messed with it and it looks like I’d I can point the collect end down and towards the frame rail I can sneak past everything with out adding more bends. I ended up turning the center two upside down so the 90 deg bend is at the bottom and tighter one at the head and it gave me a lot more room. probably cut them up next weekend after staring at it some more
I think you can clear the alternator. I'm going to run a generator and so far there appears to be enough room. You certainly have a large collection of nice bends.
Yeah I’m very happy with the variety of bends and how clean and smooth they are. And the flanges are almost as thick as the stock cast stuff so it shouldn’t be much work to make the stock hold downs work. I want to make sure that I have plenty of room around to alternator so I don’t cook it. Figure early v8 chevies have them damn near bolted to the exhaust manifold so I think I can get away with it being tight as long as it can breath I also want to make sure I can pull the oil cap and adjust the steering box. The 46 is nearly impossible with out pulling the manifold and head pipe
When do you get one of these? If you get three you could have four carbs! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That’s a slick way to go! I’ve got mine front mounted so my steering box is about where your motor mount is. The pedals and masters are on the fire wall so I’ve got a straight shot back for the most part I’ll just have to make sure there is room for a slave cylinder for the clutch. this morning I trimmed the correct side back to where I can start fitting it up and sneaking up on the fitment. I’ll let the pictures do the talking, so far so good. They do need to point down and away from the block so it’s likely that the 4 into 1 collector won’t work with out a lot of messing around but now things are to a point I can actually try and find out. the two ends I can put the tube straight in and the come out far enough to clear everything. The two centers have to duck down to clear the intake so fast that the tube will either go in slanted or I’ll have more welding ahead of us to make the end straight for the flanges thickness. nothing to it but to try now.
The modified Offey intake above would give you a little more clearance. You would also have the third removed runner to cut up and lengthen your runners if needed.
@Tman haha yeah I got it together and thought “gee you’re just a little feller” @Six Ball yeah that’s true. I do t think I can fit two carbs with the masters on the fire wall though. My back up plan is some 1/4 plate spacers on the intake. But I’m hoping this will fit. Won’t need a manifold heater that’s for sure!
Alright seems like I’ve got good room around the steering box and the cap is easy and clear to get to. Only thing in the way is the alternator if it stays where it’s at. I think I’m going to keep the front primary where it is and either move the alternator or go to a smaller alternator in the current location. looks like I should be able to cut and swivel the top and it’ll bring it over and down to line up with the port. If not it’ll be close I bent a the white wire to give it a test run of sorts though the photos are a bit out of order a little radiator hose shim and a hose clamp should hold the halves together well enough to see what works.
You can see here the back of the alternator is about a half inch or so into hitting that front primary. moved it over to the passenger side above the distributor for a look i don’t mind it but the belt routing would be a little challenging and the heater hose outlet is right under where the alternator would sit as well so I’d like to keep it on the drivers side so I’m looking at a smaller alternator
So right now I’ve got an early gm with an external regulator two options are an early mopar or the super small denso which is available with a V belt pulley. the mopar is shorter front to back but it’s way taller than the denso. Right now I’m thinking the denso could tuck into the space best roughly 4 inches at the bottom mount gives a good inch of clearance to the header 3 1/4 til it hits about 7 inches above the bottom mount
There is a Toyota that we used on my son's Studebaker. 1980 I think. I'll try to find it.It may be this one. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...rnator-11425/f7cab2ae3cc0/1980/toyota/corolla
Cut and twist worked! Need to swap out all the clamps, trim the center two primaries to clear the intake then get a flange on the motor and start filing to ports to fit the tubes Getting closer! Can’t wait to see it at least mocked up with the intake
Yes, the plan is to bring them threw almost all of the way and then weld on the gasket side kinda inside the flange like a lap weld I guess?
Then you just need to find someone with a big belt sander. Sand the welds flat. That is how Sanderson and others surface the flanges.
How do you weld them @Tman ? I see most people tack them on the outside then weld on the gasket side most often
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