I have a Painless fuss block and ready to rewire my 1939 Ford - I have basic wiring for the one wire Powermaster Alternator - and stock push button start and ignition switch. I have a Vega box - and LimeWire kit for the horn button for stock steering wheel. Really just want the clean look of toggle switch for the turn signals and flashers. I know painless less has a kit at about 100 buck for the toggle switch and flashers - any opinions on this installation?
I used the American Autowire toggle switch purchased off of EBAY for about 35 bucks. I used to go with the Ron Francis push button switches but they quit selling them I used the toggle switches in my last 4 cars and they are all still working well. I just bought another one for my next project.
I have a single pole Ford style starter solenoid - I think from a bus in the 1950's - to a NOS 1940 push button start switch - the Dennis Carpenter repo China made fell apart in 2 days - Not really a relay - but sorta wired like in the day - I guess. Will this work over the long haul. As you can tell - wiring is not my strong point - especially mixing and matching items over 70 years, vs "stock rewire".
I think you have to use the Ford one wire starter button to provide the ground for the solinoid/relay. Use the solinoid/relay to pass juice to the starter. Rebel wire has a thread here where he explains this process. Phil
Ahh, I wrongly assumed you were going later model engine/starter and would need 12V positive from the switch. You should be OK. Rich
Don't for get about the head light switch. If you are using the stock switch at the end of the steering box now, you will need to tace out the wires from the switch contacts and rewire it using the new harness, its not bad, you can get factory harness diagrams on Van Pelts web site. I built my own fuse block for my 39 Standard so that I can wire it exactly how I want it, and utilize all the factory switches. Other wise you can just use a newer switch on the dash and plug it right in. I just love the original headlight switch in the steering wheel.
My original box was very worn - went with the Flaming River enhanced Vega box - adapted original column to the Vega box . I wish the original box was useable - the original switch is cool.
I saw that too, the OP should hit Rebel up about an entire harness. Something like the 9+3 would be enough circuits.
I think you have to use the Ford one wire starter button to provide the ground for the solinoid/relay. Use the solinoid/relay to pass juice to the starter. Rebel wire has a thread here where he explains this process. Phil Phil
I know this is an old thread, but I’m attempting the same thing right now on mine.. ‘39 column drop, 2 post push button start, motorcraft solenoid to a Chevy start/charge system.. painless harness was pretty nice up until now, The tech at painless was less than helpful. I’ve seen folks using a relay for these, and some saying not to worry.. wiring is also not my strong point
You just need a two post starter button. Wire one side to switch on power and the other to the small post on the solenoid. The early Ford starter buttons had a single terminal and worked because it was a positive ground. Later they went to negative ground. That’s why some people use a relay. The starter button would be wired to the ground circuit of the relay, thereby switching power through the relay to the starter solenoid. Always seemed like making it over complicated to me. if you want to use an old looking starter button, but one for a 56 ford pickup. It is a two pole switch and even snaps into the 30’s ford dash hole for the original starter button. That’s how my 39 is wired. DM me if you want or need more info. I do lots of wiring or look through my 39 build thread and you can see some of what I did to wire it. Even make my own fuse and relay panels.
I've used the toggle switch turn signals in a couple cars, they work nice. I usually buy a loud flasher since they don't cancel, it helps. As for the starter button, check out Napa STB5, its a two pole starter button, so you can hook it up between the toggle switch and starter solenoid instead of using a relay. Bonus, wire it to the keyed side of the toggle switch so it won't crank without the toggle being turned to the on position.
Yeah Stud, I’ve had many senile signal moments with these Yankee switches. I repaired the indicators on my gauge cluster now so I have an extra reminder, so we’ll find out (hopefully soon) how much that helps. I’ll drop by Napa today and check that push button out; the one I have at the moment is a China unit from Autozone.. what is the keyed side on the column drop? Battery, coil, gauge? I’ve never been good with electrical.. The way it was wired before, it turned over in both positions- on or off.
A fuss block. That must be why when you start wiring you start fussing and fuming to the point where you almost blow a fuse.
Billy, I’ll dm you tonight. Been busy swapping the oil pump out in my 39. I’ll draw you a diagram to follow for wiring it up off the column switch so that it functions properly. It will only crank in the on position.
If you get the two pole switch and hook it to the terminal that says coil, then when you hit the button it will only work when the ignition toggle is on. If you hook it to the battery side, it can crank with the switch off like original. I prefer it to only crank with the ignition switch on.
Nice!.. I wish I had a better picture of what was going on before; but the wiring was such a god awful rats nest my nose bled just from looking at it.. both of those terminals were wired to something before, I just didn’t know what.. installing the painless harness helped me understand a good bit more; I’ll be hitting the books hard after this one.. here it is puking up the old harness
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