Technical What dual MC will fit my 1964 Chevy

Original drums. Stopped well until last week.

 

This MC is 1969 Chevy drum brake model.

 

It seems you need to determine which port is which.

And it's possible that that m/c isn't a good choice for your existing system.

 

I may be wrong but I don't think so. I have a Bendix book I'll look it up.

Pat

 

You might check this website out and consider calling:
https://www.impalas.com/brakes/master-cylinders/

 

Impala Bob's shows 1" bore for 69 Impaler:

 

I looked it up that MC is for disc brakes. A drum brake MC is 1" the bend # is 11329 The original MC was a 7/8" bore except for HD with is listed as metallic brakes. Get the right MC. The master cylender does not know it is in a 64 chevy or a 67 chevy so you are not miss matching parts like was suggested. I have been driving my 65 Olds 88 with the same MC as a 67 Olds (1" bore) for over 25 years after a brake line rusted out I changed to a tandem MC.

Pat

 

Make sure you hooked up the push rod to the correct hole in the pedal.

 

I’m going to catch hell for this but I bet the factory master would work great for your car...if memory serves squirrel’s Chevy has been in the nines with a single reservoir master....


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It certainly would but some times we up grade things for various reasons. I personally like the safety aspect of a tandem up grade.

Pat

 

I guess I’m on borrowed time but that’s ok, I’ll keep maintaining my stuff and take my chances.


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Thanks Pat. I just ordered a 1" bore.

 

Theoretical question: What effect will an 1/8th-inch bigger/smaller bore have?

 

You will have to push harder to have the same braking as a smaller bore


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Anyone ask if you bench bled the master cylinder?

 

He said it wasn't stopping worth a **** when standing on the brakes. The bore size doesn't seem to be the main problem.

 

updated the MS on my 63 f100, used the first year f100 that had a dual MS.
split the system and set it up just like a 67.
the difference was noticeable. I like the dual much better.
1 1/8 bore sounds big, thats the size my c40 came with.
that joker got a hydroboost now.
now thats a nice set up.
you guys can enjoy the old brake all ya want, unless its fendrless, Im updating em.

 

A smaller bore equates to easier pedal pressure. With all other things being the same.

Pat

 

I never said it was, you asked what would change with a bigger bore, I answered.


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A 7/8” with no power or all drum what was recommended to me by a manufacturer and a conversion person and worked. Remember it’s a dual not a single.
I have back brakes only on one of my race cars with a 20-1 hand brake handle and it has a 7/8” and I wish it was a 3/4”.

 

here is a similar article for a vette
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...963-1967-dual-reservoir-master-cylinder-swap/

https://www.cl***icchevy.com/full-s...-wheel-drum-brakes-1958-1964-40-170009-1.html

https://www.impalas.net/forums/13-brakes-suspension/24066-dual-bowl-master-cylinder.html

 

Yep. I continued the thread discussion while replying to you.

 

The 1" bore "DRUM BRAKE" MC does not have a residual check valve it is only on Disk Brake MC to keep the fluid returning from the caliper to the MC.

Pat

 

I did bench bleed it first.

 

Yea ok....only if the master is lower than the caliper and drums need a residual valve if they don’t have cup expanders to keep from pulling air past the cups.

Funny how this “upgrade” has resulted in unsafe brakes.

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how are the rest of the brake lines?
original or new?

 

New stainless steel brake lines. 0 miles.