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How do I paint my rusty engine block?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by meteor, Sep 7, 2007.

  1. meteor
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 443

    meteor
    Member

    I started stripping the old paint off my motor a while back and it was pretty rusty under the paint. Now its been sitting for a while (read more rust) and I'd like to put some fresh paint on it.

    What is the best way to prep it and paint it? I was going to use POR15 over the rust as a base coat...anyone else done this?

    I'd like a metallic bronze/brown (caramel colour)...however, I don't have access to a booth or paint gun and I can't find that colour in an engine paint spray bomb. Can I use the touch-up paint spray bombs available at auto stores? will this stuff hold up to engine temps like a regular base-clear would?

    thanks, appreciate any advice and suggestions.
     
  2. av8
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,716

    av8
    Member

  3. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Beside that, I strip as best I can with given tooling. I don't believe in any of those rust converter jammies, I clean as best I can and prime with HOK Epoxy Primer. Then any BC/CC will do. The finish won't be bulletproof because of the heat, but it won't fall of the first time you start it either.
     
  4. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,326

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    I had a very low mileage engine that I put in my 54 Chevy. After cleaning it up, I found I couldn't remove the rust very well, without complete dis***embly. So I cleaned it even more, and did what you want to do, use POR-15 as a primer. I painted over it with purple Imron, and it still looks good today (10+ years!).
    You just need to hit it with the paint when the POR gets tacky. DOn't let it dry! Also don't do it too wet, or the pOR color will bleed up into the topcoat.
    Not recommended for a show car, but it worked well for me on my "super nice quality" street car.
     
  5. prime mover
    Joined: Dec 6, 2002
    Posts: 827

    prime mover
    Member

    muratic acid takes rust right off metal. its commonly found at pool/spa shops, dont breath the fumes and mix it about 50/50 and rinse it away.
     
  6. meteor
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 443

    meteor
    Member

    Thanks for the info. I think I'll give the POR15 a try.

    I wish there was a way to do a custom colour engine enamel in a spray bomb...or is there?
     
  7. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Most paint shops can mix up any color into a rattle can for around $20. I'm not sure anyone would be able to do a high heat version though, you might have to check in to that.
     
  8. meteor
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 443

    meteor
    Member

    Really? that's good to know. At least I'll be able to get the base colour I'm after. Thanks for the tip.
     
  9. 63ChevyII
    Joined: Dec 9, 2005
    Posts: 559

    63ChevyII
    Member

    chopolds, do you have any pics of your engine? I'd like to see them if you do.

    meteor, please what you end up doing. I should be painting an engine in a month or so, if things go well.
     
  10. Metal Prep or Ospho, while being "rust converter" products, actually turn rust to a phosphate(which is black) and act as a primer, just don't put lacquer over it. Anything else seems fine.

    BUT; another way to use it is as a wash, brush it on the already degreased metal till the rust is gone and rinse off. wait for it to dry(air helps), and paint. On sheet metal you can rub with a dampened rag to remove rust, wipe dry, and paint in 15 minutes.
     
  11. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Ya, I mean it may not be high heat, but at least its in a spray can for ya. Somewhere "they" sell a small gl*** areosol sprayer. I think you pressurize it with air and it lays out like a rattle can. Another alternative if you plan to doi alot. Buy your basecoat in a can, pour it in the sprayer, pressurize and spray.
     
  12. 1931S/X
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 667

    1931S/X
    Member
    from nj

    im 99% sure you can get the presurized spray bomb thing at home depot. the one they have is an aerosol cartridge or whatever its charged with, it screws onto the gl*** jar you put the paint in. we used them once at work to touch up some railngs we installed, the company sent the stuff out with premixed paint, they worked pretty decent. there are a few options once you get it clean. por 15 sells a brushable engine paint kit in many colors. i have used all types of paint on engines and they all semm to work fine, the prep is the biggest thing. just screwing around with my es***, before i put the motor back in i thought what the hell let me at least paint it, i soaked it with purple power washed it off, and sprayed it with rust oleum red oxide primer, the next day i hit it with a basic gloss grean. i really wasnt sure how it was going to hold up being oil based. so far, so good, holding up goo withthe few leaks im battling and hasnt changed color one bit. i thinned it out with about 20% acetone and sprayed it, dirt cheap and holding up well. just think how many colors RO comes in, i was going to use the hammertone finish, they have a broze color, it would look cool on an engine if it really comes out in hammertone.
     
  13. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 30

    mister Bill

    I have had great success with POR15. But on a motor? Would I still be able to take the motor apart? The first time I used POR15 I put the paint brush on a beam under what I was painting, I had to rip it off with a prybar. The brush did not break away from the wood, it ripped the wood off of the beam.

    engine picture.jpg
     
  14. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,412

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Take off most everything you don't want painted the same basic color. Block up all the holes, intake, exhaust ports, sensor bungs, etc.. Degrease to the max. Wash with soapy water. Then use derusting treatments. I like Naval Jelly (being an X squid) cause it works. Wash / degrease again, blow out al the water in deep spots and air dry for a least a day. I prefer paints made for engines, matching brand primer and top coat, like Duplicolor. Clear if you want it super shiny.
     

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