Well, I've got a question for the HAMB faithful. I picked up a '46 front axle ***y (complete w/ tie rod and wheels!) from Orcas Tow. Unfortunately he won't warranty it... JUST KIDDING! I knew the wheels didn't turn when I bought it. Anyway, getting back on track - I'm planning on using this on a low-buck drag car, and won't need front brakes; just the hubs. But the ****ing drums are stuck (and I mean STUCK) to the backing plates (well, to the shoes). Both sides. Stuck like pigs in ****. No, worse - like super glue in the KY... So, time to cut something. But which? What's more desirable to people; the drums or backing plates? I know that a lot of guys run buick drums; so there's that argument for cutting the drums. But drums get worn out; probably more often than backing plates. Also, HAMB'er hvychvy nees some drums for a '46 Merc; do these fit? Because if these drums will work for him, that'd kinda help make the decision. So what should it be? I just got the tanks filled yesterday... -bill
Remove the nuts from the bottom pivots on the backing plate.Punch in the bolts with a drift.Remove the bolts that hold on the wheel cylinder. Push it in (sort of) It should come apart now. Save the cutting torch for working on Chevy's.
Theres no need to ruin any parts. Apply heat to the part of the drums that contact the shoes and the heat will help loosen the rust holding the shoes to the drums. Tap with a hammer, use prybars and you can get it all apart
Aw, hell, its just old ****, cut it up! Wait, did I just say that out loud? Pop the pivoits and wheel cylinders, heat the shoe surface of the drums, tap the surfaces, and use pry bars, after the drums have cooled off some. If all else fails, cut the drums, they are probably shot anyway, esspecially after all the heating, beating, and prying. Gene
I was kinda' wondering how straight the drums would be after beating on 'em... and how strong after laying the hotwrench to 'em. But I may have a solution which gets me off the hook for everything, and makes the drums, hubs, backing plates, pivot pins, and shoes <i>all</i> surplus. If things go well, I'll have a tech post in a week or so. If not, then not. -bill
Heat it and beat it. Use pry bars. Thats worked well for me for 25 years. Never warped any drums or damaged anything.
What the hell do you mean no warranty, I stated very clearly all the parts had a full 90/90 foot warranty, when you p***ed the end of the driveway the 90 feet was done! Seriously if you have to cut the drums off I think I have a set of F-1 brakes if you need, lemme know, did you get the wishbone off ok? Uzek You might try & force some water in behind the drum over a few days then heat the drum & use all the above tools of destruction.
What Uzek didn't make clear was that the 90/90 didn't <i>include</i> the driveway! Anyway, a verbal contract is only worth the paper it's written on... Actually, I'm working on swapping a set of Chrysler hubs on; the bearings are figured out, and I think I've found the 'magic bullet' oil seal that will make it all work. That way I can get cheap/plentiful wheels with 5 X 4.5" bolt pattern. Film at eleven. Front brakes aren't needed; this is going in a drag car. So all I need are hubs. I'm just trying to save old parts for the next guy; I hear Ford quit servicing these some time ago... The wishbone came off; just some kroil, BFH, and persistance. I was surprised that the shoes stuck to the drums; I poured kroil down there, and that almost always does the trick. Now, all I gotta' do is get an MG body home from Tomslik's place, and the madness really begins... -bill
Kepp us up to date with pic'a, what motor ya runnin, huh, hmmm,what was that,uhhh,shhh, ok I wont tell, well??????
Well... I had this 22R and 4 speed left over from putting together a shop truck. So, I thought I'd take it to the track and abuse it. Cheap, easy to fix, etc. So anyway, I go looking for info on putting a 'lil T-bucket thing together. Which led me to Orcas Island to pick up a frame and a nice '46 beam axle (thanks Orcas Tow!) to get the ball rolling. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=206284&stc=1&d=1153192151 Then my friend Jonathon (who went to pick up the frame) started looking funny at me. I've known the guy for a long time, and can usually tell what he's thinking. This time he was wondering if he should offer to just draw a set of nuts on me or something. About that time, I find the MG body in CO with five min's remaining on an eGay auction. So, WTF... now I got an MG TD shell at Tomslik's. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=206285&stc=1&d=1153192151 Well, when a guy gets one of those cars, the only thing to do is PM the wise ol' guru of Raytown MO. He told me (imagine Yoda voice here) something like: "Hmmm... want to go fast you do. Install the Toyota motor you can, but plan for upgrades you should. Easy to manage will the 4 cylinder be, but change it out you will. Hungry for power it will leave you. Hmmm, yes, feel the force young carfarmer. Especially if install a big block you run. Then much force shall you feel. A good rear axle you should install, to be ready for the inevitable." "Yes master Porkn******, I have an 8-3/4 with 4.10's and a Sure-Grip," I said. "Suffice it shall, young carfarmer, easily break it shall not. Hmmm, yes." So I called Jonathon (project enabler), who was all in favor of sticking in something stronger than 95HP. Especially since he knows he's gonna' get to drive it. So, let's look under the bench in the little half-garage. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=206282&stc=1&d=1153191758 A low mile (<10K) 8:1 440 out of a '76 luxobarge. And the 727 from the Valiant. I was gonna' save it for a street rod, but screw it, I've been 'gonna save it for a street rod' for the last several years. So, think I should box that Model T frame? -bill
So, think I should box that Model T frame? I think you should find a second T frame & stack them together...... then box that!
I wouldn't box it. Altereds are supposed to be a little loose and right on the ragged edge of being totaly out of control. Box it and mount the motor solid ( motor plates) that'll make the motor a cross member, ya might as well get all the good out of that heavy brute.
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