I have an 8ba engine in a 51 Ford p/up and I need to remove the crank pulleys. There are no holes in the pulley to use a harmonic balancer puller and the pulleys don't look like they would hold up to a 2 or 3 jaw puller. Any suggestions? THANX RICH
After removing the bolt, spray some penetrating oil around the nose of the crank. Using a hard rubber or plastic hammer, tap around the base of the pulley, while pulling on it with your other hand. If need be, you could gently, warm that area with a heat gun.
^^^ What Marty said ^^^ The one I just took apart was slip fit to the crankshaft. Once I got the bolt out I slid it off by hand, but it wasn't rusty/crusty.
Have you gotten it off Rich with the suggestions? Want Flathead Knowledge? Check our Wired Customs LLC on YouTube!
Not off yet. More on this problem. I had this off about 2 mos. ago when I replaced a stripped cam timing gear. I got the parts and started putting things back together. I remember when I removed them the 1st time I just came in behind the pulleys with a wood dowel and a hammer and bumped it off, no problem. Well I was in no real hurry to get the truck going again so I cleaned up parts and painted things. I had a little struggle getting the pan that the starter attaches to back up in place, but I got it. I had 3 bolts left to install in that plate, went over to the table where they sat and look down at the ground and there sits the key that keeps the pulleys from turning on the crank snout. It must have not been seated in the crank and when I drew the pulleys onto the crank it got ejected. So now everything is all nicely cleaned and painted and I need to pull the pulleys off far enough that I can reinstall the key. i have a puller set up and tomorrow I'm going to put some tension on the pulleys with this puller and apply some heat. So far I haven't wanted to use heat since I just installed a lip style Offy front seal. I think I can take a wet rag and place it up close to the seal to try and keep it cool. Wish me luck. I'll let you all know how things turn out. THANX RICH
Well I got back on this today. With some help from a friend, some heat and a BFH it finally came apart. The inside of the sleeve the pulleys are on is a bit galled and the pulleys aren't real straight, but I can fix all that. I don't think we got things hot enough to mess up my new crank seal, but time will tell!!! THANX RICH
I've been working on this kinda slow. I got the pulleys back straight. I then bored about the 1st .750 of the ID out about .020. With the sleeve bored out I can slide the pulleys on far enough to engage the key in the crank. The pulleys are all on and tight. The starter is on. Now I need to find TDC on 1 and install the dist, which I rebuilt yesterday. THANX RICH
Well yesterday I had some help and we made great progress until it came time to start the engine. No pop, no wheez, no nothin'!!! On a compression gauge it registered exactly ZERO. Before the day was over we had the timing cover back off and were going to pull the crank gear, because we could never find a timing mark on the old gear and it seemed like it was going to be very hard to remove the factory gear. I had taken the new Offy crank gear and used the key way to mark the factory gear to be sure I got the cam timing correct. I was to a point that we were going to cut the original gear off the crank, if necessary. First we tried to heat it up and beat it off. In doing that we bent the oil slinger that is directly in front of the gear. Guess what? The timing mark was directly beneath the slinger, and if it were correct I was exactly 180 off of being correct. We pulled the cam gear and aligned the marks, stuck things back together and WALLA we had compression. It looks like it will be Sat before I can get back after it so I've got my fingers crossed she'll be a runner before the weekend is over. Thanks for coming along for the ride on this roller coaster. THANX RICH
The Jalopy Journal
