Technical The Painting at home in the driveway or garage thread

Well, its been a pain to learn, but Ive never painted before so thats probable my fault. I painted 3 cars with it so far, 2 single stage, one base ,clear. All came out with orange peel but color sanded out. The paint comes out hot, I wore a glove because the gun gets hot. When I redid the door I used twice the reducer it called for and used slow reducer, it was 75 degrees when I shot it. I also have one of the first turbins they came out with, the newer ones might be better.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply.
I've never painted a car before either but, I figured I'd give it a shot.
I'll keep your advice in mind when I do mine.

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I've been painting my own cars for the last sixty years, and some friends cars too. The last one I painted was my '32 3W that I painted in '99 with acrylic lacquer. At my age I don't want to spray the catalyzed paint and have to buy the required safety equipment. I'm very impressed with the quality of the paint jobs displayed by the HAMB members. Great results and doing it yourself is not only saving money but a great sense of accomplishment. Good results from all.

 

This is my wife’s off topic car but I painted last summer in the driveway .


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Amazon wedding tent .
10x30 goes up and down quick and easy with 2 people. Then you seal it as good as you want/need.
For this job I was just concerned about keeping the over spray fallout inside the container and not floating all over the shop.

 

Getting closer to finishing up the rest. Firewall , inner fenders dash all done. Stude coming back to life.

Training Better half to paint her stuff.

 

I have been looking at this thread for a few years now trying to come up with a plan. Probably overthinking the whole thing. The current idea is to paint the frame first and then I can reassemble the chassis with the suspension and drivetrain so all that stuff takes up less floor space. Then I should be able to roll that out to the front garage so that I have more room to paint the body. I purchased a used two stage Lemmer turbine spray system so that is what I will be using even though a bleeder type spray gun just feels strange to me. Since this is all new to me, the question I have to ask is; How much paint should I buy? The car is presently in bare metal and here is a picture of it before I blew it apart to give you a sense of its size.

 

Is anyone using an inflatable spray booth?
The more I think about it the more sense it’s making.

 

^^^I'd like to see one of those. You have a link you can share? The ones I've seen are kind of spendy.
Andy

 

Built a new hood for my 29 Tudor, and painted it in my garage. Got a small sag and will fix after I take a break from driving the wheels off .

 

Finally got some paint on the bare metal roof
Florida humidity wreaks havoc on steel
Actually used a small gloss paint roller. Very windy today and wife is sick. No way I could have sprayed this in or out of garage
Don’t care about small bumps because will get sanded after rust repair complete
Honestly thinking about Dustless Blasting rest of the car, in near future
Looks so much better than before
I.Color 2010 Voc Dtm epoxy Hybrid Primer
I.Color 2015 Activator








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More epoxy, urethane primer...this time on my 34 ford.

 

I did these in AU in my RV parking area…didn’t have to be perfect, going on my original paint ‘46 woodie…Phill Whetstone pinstripes...

 

We have a full build thread here on the HAMB for this car (just click on the link in my signature). However we have recently got the project to the point of painting and of course as with every other aspect of the build, it will happen here at home, in the driveway or garage. LOL


Now we have spent a ton of time in the "driveway getting this crazy thing ready for paint. We started about 18 months ago by shooting the car with a PPG apoxy primer sealer while we worked on other parts of the build. Recently we turned our attention back to the body. We spent a ton of time working all the door, trunk and hood lines.


It took a lot of patience to work all of these gaps and get them as close to perfect as possible.


When we were as happy as we felt we could be with out loosing anymore hair or kicking the cat etc. we shot the car with a high build filler primer (right there in the driveway) and started blocking it.


After finding and working out a few spots that were not as ready for blocking as we thought, we were good for some color.


We taped off and shot all of the jam areas, trunk, hood and doors etc. My paint shop mixed up a few spray cans of the exact color Wimbledon White that we are spraying the car. This made it much easier to shoot all of these jams with out making a total mess etc.


After the jams were complete, we did a good tape job on the entire car in preperation for painting.


We cleaned the floors and hung plastic on all four sides of the paint area making sure we had enough room to easily move around the car. We put it jackstand and continued our tapeing etc. Just before we painted the car we wiped it all down with prepsol and then hit it with a tack rag just to be sure.


I would not recomend a single stage acrylic enamel if it is metallic but since we are only shooting a non-metallic Wimbledon White it is really good paint. We used PPG House Line JE Acrylic that was a very simple 4 to 1 mix ratio with a thinner. It is a good quality paint and is very cost effective. We shot it with a 1.3 tip and it went on really nicely.


We layed down three coats with about 20 minutes between them. Just before we shot the car we washed down the floor again leaving it wet. We had plastic hanging on all four sides of the shop with our large shop fan in the walk through door blowing out.


We had left room on the side areas for the hood, trunk and few other small pieces.


We let it set for a couple of hours and then removed all the tape and mask. And since at that point we were quickly running out of daylight we simply left it in the shop over night.


The next morning, with a full day of sunshine on tap we got the wheels and tires back on and prepared it to catch some rays.


She soaked up the sun all day long and we basically sat around in the shade and watched the paint dry...LMAO. But it was much funner that people say it is...


As the sun went down that evening we were ready roll her back into the shop. Our plan is to let it set all week and catch as much sun as possible and hopefully by next weekend, be ready to carefully cut it with 1500 to 2000 grit and then start polishing.


I will say this...having one of these little babies certainly keeps condensation from making it to the gun which is always a pain in the backside. You can see my ealier make shift pvc system on the wall behind it. To be honest, that system worked pretty well but when I accidentally stumbled upon this DeVilbiss dryer in nearly new condition about to be sent to the scrap yard on a large Vutec printer, I really lucked out. It is in like new condition and all I have in this $1500 system is $60 worth of new dryer beads!

 

"Back in the day", as a surprise for a friend that liked convertibles, we cut the top of his '50 Ford coupe, and painted it in the driveway using an accessory spray gun that hooked to the discharge side of a vacuum cleaner.

 

Painted my first truck in 1976 ('39 Chev) in the shed , used the blow attachment on the vacuum cleaner . Looked just like what it was LOL .(enamel)
Painted my wifes '55 Chev in 1981 , outside in the drive , used acrylic lacquer and a $100 gun from the paint store . The car still looks excellent .

 

I can only tell you it takes a lot more paint to paint in pieces than it does to paint conventionally ( as a production shop would) with the car all together. I painted in pieces as it was easier for me to control the process- plus when you bugger something up- or that bat sized moth lands in your freshly sprayed piece-you have the material to re spray it. Regardless of what they tell you at the paint store- buy more- you don’t know what might be damaged in the future and you will have the same color on hand for repairs. Whatever volume you buy- let’s say one and a half gallons or two gallons or 4-5 quarts-whatever amount-mix all the paint together before you spray the first panel so it all matches the exact same and you have some left over for repairs or a rainy day.

 

Removed the rails ,rear wiper and did some painting.

 

Deuced Up!, Killer looking Project
Love the wheel n tire combo


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My 1st paint job in 1978. Painting cars in my driveway just about every year since then. This car was probably my best paint job This is the last car I painted black.

 

A friend was restoring a limited production vintage sports car, that he had committed to bring to a show. He did not have the facilities to do a proper paint job. He was running out of time, so to expedite the project, he prepared every piece of the body, and brought each one individually to the local Maaco shop. As he got the pieces back, he was relieved and pleased to find they had done a very nice job. He completed assembly late the night before the show. Next morning, when he rolled the car out to load on his trailer, he was horrified to see that every panel was a slight but noticeably different shade!

 

Here is the dash in my chevy , painted in my "open air" garage, also front wheel houses etc - made paint stands out of 5 gallon buckets and concreted 2x4's in place. Used a hand me down compressor, old HF copy of a Binks spray gun for the sheet metal, and HF gravity feed for the dash( took 3 trys).

 

No Response Yet ! I am also at about the same point as you, and was hoping to get the T chassis painted in the next few weeks. It sounds like Rustolieum is the way to go for price and durability, but do I need 1 or 4 Litres. I would expect painting the frame , suspension axles etc, being smaller items would have excess over spray and require extra paint for good coverage. Any tips on spraying a lot of smaller parts?

 

Yes .............. premix all the paint so the left over is going to be the same shade . As said above , you never know when you will need a touch up !!! I spent 18 months doing this car , had it on the road for barely 3 mths , had a truck run into the back of it while I was stopped at the traffic lights

 

Anybody try matching paint using one of those Optical or whatever new paint checkers you see them using on those Car shows on TV. Do they work OK?

 

Back in the day when I was working with painting cars,
it was the fastes way to get as close as possible to the right color.Fotospektrometer in Swedish

 

I believe there is some operator skill required .

I have had 2 cars touched up by 2 different paint shops , one was terrible , the other ok . Both cars are same age and relative condition .

 

Any new home paint jobs and or booths? I’m going to be using a Titan Capspray 95 turbine and will likely be buying a Sprayfine gravity gun to go with it. I’ll be spraying epoxy to start with and will be spraying outside possibly in one of the Harbor Freight 10x20 carports. Still up in the air though.

 

I sprayed this recently in my side yard. Bought a portable garage. Sprayed it with Kirker Enduroprime epoxy with a HF gun.


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