Going to help a buddy with his 67 Camaro with 327 auto that is having some hard starting issues. It is sporadic so I think it is the starter. However, when I put a timing light on it I noticed it was running 10 deg initial timing at idle. The specs say 2 degrees for his 2 barrel 210hp. I didn't get to spend any more time on it but my question is looking at 1967 Camaro specs I found online, there appear to be ten V-8 combinations between 302/327/350 and they all have different initial timing specs ranging from 2deg to 10deg. I get that this is impacted by mechanical advance in the distributor, cam and other internals but that seems like a lot of variation. Does different cams, different distrib curves, etc all impact the engine this much? Seems like GM would want to consolidate more--follow the Henry Ford mantra of 'any color as long as it is black'.
I think you're over 50 years to late to suggest that to the Chevy engineers You need to set the initial timing, so that the total timing is right. This requires a "dial type" timing light, or a timing tape on the damper, or something. disconnect the vac*** advance, rev the engine up, see if timing goes up to about 34 degrees and stays there when revved up. If not, adjust so it is.. Then let it idle and see what the timing is, and make a note of it...that's what you want the idle timing to be set at. The different timing curves in the distributors allow for differences in the engines, gearing, etc. They made it that way for a good reason, and it wasn't so you'd have to go to a lot of trouble to find the correct specs.
This is from my 67 shop manual, covers all small blocks but the 302. No specific callout as to car model, but note the timing differences between automatic and manual in both A.I.R. (California) and the others, also note the hp ratings, this is directly related to the camshaft used per engine. Also note the X's in the 327/325 and 350 hp (same engine), this denotes the fact that GM did not offer an automatic with these engines as these have both a much higher compression ratio and hotter camshafts. All these various factors dictate why there are so many different timing numbers.
Does the starter have the brace(support) on the rear of the starter?! Has the balancer slipped? (can't believe a 67 still has the factory balancer) timing marks could have moved. What about proper ground strap? Can never have too many grounds! 10-12 degrees should NOT be too much if using hi-test gas. 6sally6
The 10° on the initial timing vote wins (vacuum advance disconnected). If...the timing tab is correct for the damper diameter and year. If the damper is fully marked, this would be an easy check. With a little math and a piece of masking tape, you could mark the damper ring, then check the "full" timing with a light. Buy a damper "timing tape" from Summit or Jegs and put it on. Then you can do a "full" rpm / timing check / adjustment. Mike
I might be nuts, but please define "hard starting". What happens when the key is turned, lets start there.
Is it when hot, and shut off for short time? Like when getting gas? If so you have cl***ic starter heat soak. Heat shield or exhaust wrap can help. Running a Ford solenoid and connecting the GM solenoid to the starter cable will help this as well. Search out the exact wiring, it's easy to do the Ford solenoid conversion. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
Damper slip on the crank snout due to insufficient torque and tear up the key, the crank, and the damper? Twice. One time on my daughter's car after a timing belt change by a friend of a friend to "works on CORVETTES and road races a motorcycle. He also got the exhaust cam timing off a tooth, which brought the ignition timing along with it. AND insisted that my daughter's complaint of low power must be because she had been driving her boyfriend's Pontiac while her car was in his shop and so was now used to real power. Outer ring on inner hub? I have, twice. One time it confounded initial attempts at ignition timing. Now I verify TDC 2 times out of three "just because." On one it also slid backwards and proceeded to eat a groove thru the pressed steel timing cover and struck oil. The (young) man behind the counter at the junk yard belligerently inSISted that I needed a good used damper whose timing mark matched the position on the trashed damper I brought in. A little knowledge ...........
Several times, working in a chevy dealership. Most always the engine ran poorly with the timing set to spec. This was after the dist was removed during other repairs. Also had it happen to my 78 elCamino, outer ring slipped back and rubbed on the timing cover. Recently installed a new chinesium balancer on a SBC, and verified TDC with a piston stop and the marks were off by several degrees.
Does it start then when you try to start the engine or just click and click then start ? I had this problem that drove me nuts till I figured it out.
My stepfather had a new 1968 327 210 hp camaro,I believe the timing setting was 4 btdc with vacuum hose disconnect and plugged,Most SBC 12 to 15 before tdc is a good starting point,35 total timing.
I have a 327/300 with a GM Dual Point Dist. and set the Timing at 38 Total. Chevy;s like to be set at 38 Total for Best overhall running/ Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
The outer steel inertia weight is what actually moves. It's real common on Fords, I don't know about that off brand stuff.
I picked up the October 2020 issue of Hot Rod because of the article on the Kookie car and there is an excellent article on setting the timing on a SBC. Pick up a copy while it is still available.
My 350 is at 12 initial and total of 37 at 2800 rpm. Starts hot just fine. 10 degrees initial probably isn’t the problem. See if it will spin over with the ign off. Like jumping the starter. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Twice, in my lifetime, never been in the automotive business, done less than 1,000,000 miles of driving in my own vehicles, - So it must happen a bit, or maybe I’m just unlucky......
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