So, I just took some new shots of my pito chit for a thread about Killer's frames on the "for sale" board, and thought I oughta do an update thread. Started on the body channel, need to build a floor out of 1"x square stock a la "Rolf's" coupe. Got the bed floor cut out and some bed mounting tangs in, ready to be bent and drilled for mounting. Firewall is in, waiting for the motor and trans to see how much of the bottom of it needs to be releived for clearance. Got the whole suspention in and waiting for rubber....gotta find some 15" x 5" 5 on 5-1/2 and some 15" x 6" 5 on 4-3/4 wheels. Motor is finally done, gotta scare up another 1200 semolians to get it out of hock, then I can start on motor and trans mounts. Prolly gonna fab up a batt mount tray and a gas tank mount this weekend. Wondering, where can I get square stock bent for around the driveshaft tunnel? I need to make that happen soon... Thanks for lookin' Splinter
Oh, one other question- should I gusset that panhard bar mount, or is 1/4" stock strong enough for what I've got going there?
That's good looking progress so far. Those a pretty neat looking frames! I've no idea what "juapo" means in Spanish but in Finnish it means "drunkard"... Just wanted to share.... Sorry 'bout that...
You are fine, as the front-to-back movement is controlled by the radius arms/ladder bars or whatever you are using. The only significant forces on your panhard bar mount are directly in line although you have a slight bending moment with the bolt in single shear. Probably not enough to worry about, just keep an eye on the bolt torque. Or add a gusset piece that puts the bar end between two metal pieces so the bolt is in double shear, the mount can still be the single 1/4 inch.
dude, thats lookin good! 2 things: 1. I totally agree with what Terry said bout the panhard bracket... I'm not a fan of single shear brackets but you prolly won't have a problem. 2. quit buying steel from the hardware store... go to the metal yard!
That's gonna be a *****en truck when you're done with it! Just make sure the grille shell sits at least an inch below the height of the cowl... and steer clear of WWW's... Whatkinda motor you gonna run? Sam.
I would venture to say that you may not even need a panhard since your transverse leaf spring would serve that purpose. Anybody agree with this? I'm at this same crossroads on my frame build and seems like a panhard bar would be good as a backup measure only in case your spring ever busts. By the way, I think your name should be spelled El Guapo (I'm a ******).
Dude, I did! Thers's a place in Burbank, I go there and tell 'em what I need and they gimme it. By the way, last time I went I got a peice of 2x3 1/8th wall- I've got about 10 ft more of it than need. Oh, and I'm running a 401 Nailhead bored .060 over-VROOM VROOM!!
Ohhhhhhhhh HAHAHAHAHA *points and laughs points and laughs*. I'm not even CLOSE to being ****** and I could have told ya guapo was WRONG WRONG WRONG! But hey, leave it Juapo ............I dig the drunkard bit, kinda looks like a drunkard put it all together. You know sweetie, I still love you and all your faults.
OK, I won't belabor this point after this, but I was bummed the image didn't show up on my last post.
Man I think your truck looks great, keep it up. As for bending the 1" box tubing for your driveshaft tunnel, you can do it yourself. No bender, no heat needed. Just start with a piece of tubing slightly longer then you need to make the "U" shaped piece. Find a piece of pipe or anything round that has the same radius of the bend that you want to make. A welding tank might work too. Using a chop saw, make slices thru 3 sides of the piece of box tubing, at maybe 3/4" intervals. Make these slices along the section of the box tubing that will make up the round shape of the "u". Now the piece can be hand bent around your round form-ie welding tank, piece of pipe, whatever you have. Bend the piece so that the uncut wall of the box tubing is on the outside of the driveshaft tunnel, and the 3 sides that you cut on the chop saw are on the other 3 sies. Clamp the now u-shaped piece to a welding table(or whatever you have)and weld up the slices in the box tubing that you made. It really helps to clamp it down firmly, otherwise it will pull into a stupid shape when you weld it up. Grind the welds down, and you should have a nice u-shaped piece of tubing. Once you're done you can't tell it wasn't bent on a bender. Its a really simple process, my description ****s, and makes it sound WAY harder then it is. Heres a couple pics of pieces that I have done this way to give you an idea. Sorry for the long ****-@ss description, but I hope this helps a little
That's a handy peice of Tech- Thank you. What did you use on your floor? is that 1 x 3? I'm wonderin' if I need to go bigger than 1 x 1....
Well I was gonna throw in the misspellin thing in also but I was too late but I would say that you have a plethera of good hot rod parts Si Jefe You Have a Plethera.
That's one of my favorite "B" movies of all time... I'm even thinking about naming my carclub the "Dusty Bottoms", but that has two meanings. Looking good... how much (if I may ask) did the beginning framework run you, out-of-pocket?
What do you have locating the rear axle.In the pic's it look's like the only thing locating it is the wishbone's.Do you have an upper link outboard of the frame that isn't visible in the pic?I dont think the wishbone's are strong enough to do all the work .They might bend or break under load especially with alot of horsepower. GREGG
No problem man. That is 1x3 that I used on my dads truck cab. It really doesn't need to be that heavy though. For the size & weight of your cab, 1x1 would really be fine. My dads truck cab is a 39' dodge, and its pretty freaking heavy. Plus I used the cross-pieces as cab mounts as well, so I wanted it pretty strong. Plus I had lots of 1x3
All I have is split bones, but I'm using a 57 chebby rear end, so I figured I'd need to run skinny tires anyway, and prolly wouldn't generate that much torque on the 'bones...
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