I noticed when I went to change the fuel filter on my Q-jet, someone has used teflon tape in the past. Obviously it must have leaked, is it ok to use teflon tape with fuel fitting ??? Toqwik
The fuel filter housing is sealed with a gasket, the threads are not used to seal the filter housing. Teflon tape is for sealing tapered pipe threads, not for straight threads such as on your filter housing. Here's a thread from another site dealing with the same problem. ----- Bart -----
Teflon Tape tends to shred. If you pull the factory filter and run an in-line instead, the Teflon Tape can get into the Carb and clog the needle valve or the Jets. That is the main reason not to use it on any of the Carb fittings. I had the inlet Nut leaking on my qjet once because the threads were screwed up. I used Teflon "Paste" instead of Tape on it and cured the problem.
First off,you don't need it.The flare on the end does the sealing. Second off,installed properly,Teflon tape does not shred when it is being ***embled. And unless you apply too much,it is captured between the threads and can not get in the fuel.
They make a teflon tape for gas fittings i belive that it is yellow, white tape will disolve with gas.Patina
Teflon tape, like pipe dope, is not intended to seal anything, it is to lubricate the threads, keep them from binding, galling, so that the threads reach maximum tightness (for lack of a better term). The threads on pipe, flare on tubing, whatever the design, does the sealing. I have used it to seal stuff, but not its intended use.
[ QUOTE ] DrJ - not even between leaf springs [/ QUOTE ] I have a factory service manual for my '40 GMC and it specifies to NOT put grease between the spring leaves because they rely on the dry friction to help dampen the bounce. It only came with single action lever shocks. They let the ch***is squat but slow the return, worked fine up to about 55 mph. which is what it was designed to max out at. but at 90 it was damn scary! (I had greased the leaves before I found the manual and put tube shocks on it.) Short answer...Not always, and I did say "no advantageous use." I didnt rule it out altogether, just meant other things might work as good. Lets face it, the "springier" you make a spring, the stiffer a shock you'll end up using, so where's the advantage? Plus if your game is to only have parts on your hotrod from a certain era, say pre '50 only, then teflon shouldnt be in there, Yea, I know it was invented damn near a century ago, but people weren't using it on hot rods. Besides, if it sticks out of a fittin it looks like an "underwear malfunction."
[ QUOTE ] Plus if your game is to only have parts on your hotrod from a certain era, say pre '50 only, then teflon shouldnt be in there, Yea, I know it was invented damn near a century ago, but people weren't using it on hot rods. [/ QUOTE ] Then that also means you shouldn't be using your fancy MIG or TIG welder to weld stuff together when ya' build the damn thing. Better not be using modern technology greases, oil, or antifreeze. Hell, I suppose that means that you shouldn't be combusting unleaded gas since it wasn't used back in the good ol' days either!
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] Plus if your game is to only have parts on your hotrod from a certain era, say pre '50 only, then teflon shouldnt be in there, Yea, I know it was invented damn near a century ago, but people weren't using it on hot rods. [/ QUOTE ] Then that also means you shouldn't be using your fancy MIG or TIG welder to weld stuff together when ya' build the damn thing. Better not be using modern technology greases, oil, or antifreeze. Hell, I suppose that means that you shouldn't be combusting unleaded gas since it wasn't used back in the good ol' days either! [/ QUOTE ] Well, Yea, like i said, if that's YOUR GAME. I didn't say it was mine. I don't give a **** about all that period correct **** if it gets in the way of my having FUN!
you shouldn't have to use teflon on fuel fittings, but if you absolutely MUST, go back to the hardware store and get the YELLOW teflon tape, its the chemical grade shizzy, and the gas wont dissolve it... as quick, I bet gas WILL eventually dissolve it, just not IMMEDIATELY like the white ****.
Un-****ing-believable... [ QUOTE ] It has no advantageous use in a car. [/ QUOTE ] Oh lord god 40,000 post king boo-foo please spare my very soul! I forgots m***a that the NPT threads nevva be leekin'! Burndup and some others have it right. The white type of teflon tape will not help you out. Get the yellow stuff. It works fine, it has worked and it will continue to work fine. I have used it many times with no ill effects. My suggestion is this, after coating the fuel line connector with the YELLOW (Chemical Grade) teflon tape, proceed to roll the tape back one or one and a half threads prior to inserting the fitting. This will make all things good. It seals well and will take care of the ******** leak. And it won't seize.
You all crack me up. If you have to use tape, you need to replace something. The fitting/line will seal itself. Tape on the threads, is a big no no. Take a closer look at that fitting. The threaded nut pushes the line into the recieving end of the other side (wether it be a fuel pump or filter). The nut spins around the line, it's not sealed there. If you lock your threads up with tape or what ever, you can have a posibble leak if the nut didn't go deep enough into the part and actually seal the line to the part.
According to the Mr. Gasket Co. website, they recommend using their teflon tape with their fuel pressure regulator line fittings. I know from experience their fuel regulator fittings will leak unless teflon tape or loc-***e is used. Apparently it's easier for them to recommend the use of teflon tape than it is to engineer a fitting that won't leak.
The end-all cure-----wrap a whole lot of duct tape around the whole carb until all of the leaked out gas is lost in the intertwined layers of wonderful, wonderful duct tape
My carb always leaked, till I ran out of gas seriously, teflon tape on tapered pipe threads is ok, if used carefully...it usually helps prevent leaks. I never use it on flared fittings like the fuel inlet on a Qjet, because it isn't needed. You can buy a new fitting to screw into the carb, if the flare on it is messed up.
I ***ume that you are talking about the cheapy round fuel pressure regulators with a big dial? They have NPT fittings. So you should use something on the threads. I don't like tape because I think it looks like ****. I have always used Loc-***e's high temp thread sealant in a tube. It makes a nice bead at the top of the threads and looks cleaner than most tape jobs I have seen. I think that a Q-jet does have a gasketed inlet fitting if I remember right. So you shouldn't need any sealant. But it has been a while since I messed with one, I like holleys (for a 4-bbl).
The cheapy round fuel pressure regulators with a big dial is what I'm talking about...not worth the $29.75 they cost. Not worth a dime, in my opinion. Every parts store in town carries them, and their eyes glaze over if you ask if they have any other kind. I used loc-***e also, but for a fuel system fitting from a company like Mr. Gasket, one would think they could do a lot better job.
It's worked for me for years. I know it's for tapered "pipe" thread, but it DOES work on straight threaded parts. In fact, on the Holley chrome dual feed lines that are SUPPOSED to seal at the flare? The cheap "knockoffs" don't for some reason, and i find that teflon tape on the threads remedies this. Hey, i know it's not supposed to, but it does. I know it at least works on pump gas, i can't speak for "race" or exotic fuels.
Ifit really comes down to it you have to use teflon tape start it a thread or 2 back. Most "pipe dope" is for lubing up the threads but it is also a sealer.Says so right on the can!!lol JimV PS remember the old" form a gasket" brown tar type **** that would run all over your parts but sealed great!!! Using that would really be "ol skool"!!!lolol
I have a can of that old brown tar gasket maker. I probably haven't opened the can in 25 years. I need to go check it out to see if it's any good!
Groucho, you're killing me. I would think a high roller such as yourself wouldn't resort to a cheap piece of **** taiwan dual feed line. I've always hated those things. They look like ****. I have always used a 3/8 compression tee (a nice one like a parker SS, or swedglock) and bent my own dual feed with some 3/8 hard line. It looks way better and then you don't have to use any rubber line, just hard pipe it all the way to the pump. Then again, the dual feed taiwan ones will match your "chrome dress up kit" that you got at kragens for $50.
Slightly OT but does anyone ever notice that most aftermarket gauge instructions say do not use teflon tape on the sending units because you may not get a good ground connection? I know that 99% of the people whose cars I've wired never read the instructions or haven't believed them. I always tell them that if their gauges don't seem to read right, they should try removing the tape before complaining to me or the supplier.
With any pipe fitting it depends upon the material of the fittings. For any 'soft' material such as alum or br*** (on either side of the application) I agree with the anti-sieze recommendation, but for steel on steel you may need liquid thread sealant if anti-sieze doesn't get the job done first. You will always need something to lube the threads on pipe applications.
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