Hot Rods My new Boling Brothers frame rust prevention. Etch / Epoxy Primer, WD40 ?

I finally got my new sweet looking frame from Boling Brothers for my 38 pickup. I hope to get my 38 Ford pickup street rod running by next summer but things can happened and project can take longer than anticipated.

I had a spare Ford 302/5.0 and I stored the 302 Crankshaft in my steel tool box (not covered with anything) and covered the engine block with garbage bag. I put all engine components in plastic bags. Every once in a while I would spray them down with WD40 and over 7 years later no rust! The bore looked exactly like how I honed them 7 years ago.

I am thinking about spaying down my new frame with WD40 or either Etch or Epoxy Prime the frame while I work on the project.

Brake cleaner or any cleaner / degreaser can easily remove WD40. Is there any down side to using WD40 for rust prevention when I am ready to paint the frame ?

Anyone used Rustoleum rattle can etch primer or Summit Racing Epoxy or Etch Primer ?

Thanks

 

use Gibbs oil, not wd40

 

Why use a product that is very paint unfriendly like WD40?
I have spent a lot of time removing that crap from bare steel frames and bodies before paint prep starts. Unless you are planning for a bare steel magazine feature, epoxy it.

 

Do NOT use WD40 as it is the enemy of paint. I've used Gibbs for years to preserve my chassis and bare Brookville bodies with no ill effects to paint. I have done at least fifteen 32 roadster pkg cars and have preserved the chassis and bodies with Gibbs with no complaints from my customers.

 

Nice looking frame.....Gibbs!

 

Like the Rolling Stones said, paint it black !
and be done With it.gibbs or anything else will need to be cleaned off before paint, where if you paint it, well. Now it’s painted and done with.

 

Gibbs.....

Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I still need to weld motor mounts, rear triangulated multi link, cab brackets, etc.... which is why I dont want to paint it yet. Additionally I am in Indiana it is probably too cold to paint now in my garage which is why I am looking at an alternative.

I have 20 gallon air compressor but no paint equipment yet. I suppose I get a paint gun from Harbor Freight for just priming.

Any primer in rattle can that I can use that is worth while to protect the frame like this one?

Waid

 

The non catalyzed rattle can etch is designed for small areas
Meaning I wouldn’t spray it over an entire chassis, then paint over it with a quality paint.
I will blast/sand parts then epoxy them. grind the areas that I weld. It’s easier sanding epoxy then removing rust that occurs during the build process in my opinion
A quart of epoxy is probably the same cost, it not cheaper than a bunch of rattle cans of etch.

 

Gibbs.

 

Either Epoxy Sealer or Gibbs. You can paint over Gibbs.

 

I use the Summit epoxy all the time. It will be some effort to remove but it will do the job. In case your frame sits for a few years, you might be glad you did.

 

a lot of epoxy primers are also rollable. So seeing as you do not have spray equipment, just follow the instructions and apply it with a foam roller.
Sand it off where you need to weld, and reapply

 

The frame on my 56 was bare for about 3 years, I sprayed it down with Rust Mort and then scrubbed it with Scotch Brite keeping it wet for about 30 minutes, then I put Dawn soap in my pressure washer and sprayed it down with the soapy mix. Again I very lightly went over the surface with Scotch Brite to assure the acid was neutralized. Then I pressure washed it making sure to get in every crack and pocket. I finished by taking compressed air and blowing the frame dry while wiping with a towel making sure not to let it the water just dry on the surface to prevent flash rust.
I basically put a phosphate coating on the frame that prevented the rust on the frame.
I have body parts that have been bare metal in my storage shed that have been treated bare metal for 10 years, no rust.
Note the method I use is not per the instructions on the Rust Mort bottle, its something an old timer showed my 25 years ago. I never let the Rust Mot dry without neutralizing it.


https://www.semproducts.com/product/rust-morttm/morttm

 

That Eastwood Aero Spray is 2K, and therefore catalyzed. It's good stuff. But this is NOT your father's rattle can. You need to treat this like any other 2K paint--meaning, full protections (it has nasty isocyanates) and proper tempertature. If it's too cold for regular paint, it's too cold for this stuff. Also, once you activate the can, it has a 24-hour pot life, so everything needs to be ready.

Listen to what people are saying: use Gibbs-brand oil. Reapply every six months or so. Your normal degreasing prep will clean it off when it's time to paint. (Worked fine for me.) You can get it from Alliance Member @terry k here on the Hamb, or from Amazon.

 

Why not rattle can the frame and when you are done adding brackets and stuff; get it blasted and then put good primer and paint on it.

 

Yes Gibbs and some gun stores are carrying Gibbs now

 

Gibbs it is then and will get them Amazon. This stuff right ?

I will use this stuff on front straight axle and everything that is raw steel. I will be using 1995 Mustang Axle with multi-link for rear and will use it after I take all of the rust off! I will use wire wheel to remove as must of the rust as possible. Can I spray Rustoleum rust reformer after ward to make it a paintable surface ?

 

3 m metal conditioner,just wipe it on

 

WD 40 has silicon in it and there nothing on earth that will cut it.

 

Yep, that's it.

 

Thanks for the tip. I don't think I am going to mess with painting in my garage. I don't want any hazardous 2K paint fumes come inside my house. I have a co-worker who paints on a side and has a paint booth and price is reasonable.

Waid

 

OK, it looks like you've already decided which way you're going; and as usual the overwhelming consensus around here is epoxy primer (or Gibbs). But just to answer the question, yes, I used Rustoleum rattle can self etching primer. My A pickup was a work in progress when I got it, a mix of old paint partly sanded, some primer, and some bare metal. The entire visor and surrounding metal was bare, and was developing some surface rust. I knew it was going to be a while before I got around to doing the rest of the paint & body work on it, so to stop the rust I gave it a real quick sand down to remove most of the surface rust and then hit it with the self etching primer. It actually took a lot longer than I thought to get around to doing to paint and body work on it, like around 5 years, and the whole area I had hit with the primer was still in perfect shape, not a hint of additional rust. I really didn't expect that, but was pleasantly surprised about it. Cheap, rattle can self etching primer, it worked great.

 

Yep, Gibbs oil.

Dave

 

That is good to know and thanks for answering my question. On your Model A Pickup, did you have to remove the Rustoleum Etch Primer before you painted it?

Thanks

 

No, I did not. No need to remove the etching primer. You could apply the top coat directly over it, or depending on what your goal is you could apply other primers, like high build primer, sealing primer, etc over the etching primer. With a frame you may not want to do all of that, but the answer is no, you don't need to remove the etching primer.

 

I keep a spray bottle with Metal Ready by POR 15 in it. Spray it on small areas at a time and wipe off the excess, followed up with a dry towel. It will keep it from flash rusting for a very long time and is paint/primer friendly. I would not prime the frame if I had to do any additional fab work and welding.

 

Good answer

 

This is the day I brought my frame home, it was built by Darrel Schroeder for my 34. Date: July 28, 2014

Same frame going to paint, Date: November 27, 2017

Nearly 3 and a half years, no primer and no rust. Gibbs. That is some amazing stuff.

 

That is a conflicting answer compared to one I read here a week or so ago that claimed you couldn't put automotive quality paint over rustoleum. Hopefully I misunderstood the other post.

I've got a car that needs some spot work done here before it gets painted, and using spray bombs would sure make it simpler for me. I've had good luck with the rustoleum etch primer on small parts that I top coated with industrial strength rustoleum, but have been wary of using it on the body of the car to avoid a lot of pain getting it back off before paint.

Your reply encourages me though.