History What to do about my 727 Torqueflite..........a dilemma.

I am still confused as to why anyone would leave the engine (any engine) with the trans. There is nothing magical about connecting the two pieces and a trans is certainly easier to haul around by itself.
That said, get the engine and start over. If 'he' wants to charge you for whatever has been done tell him you'll put a check in the mail.
Given your location, have you talked with Pat Blais?

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If you have a good core send it to A&A transmission in Indy, One of the best Torqueflite guys in the nation. Tell them your setup and plans for the car and he will build you a perfect transmission for your setup. Great company to work with.

Also, he won't ask for your engine, just the setup.

http://www.aandatrans.com/Default.aspx

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Torqueflites are one of the easyer auto trans to work on. As for parts A and Reds is my go to supplyer www.areds.com

 

The Hemi is home all safe and secure. As to why the trans was there with the engine the rebuilder told me it needed to be indexed to the starter gear the first time the tans was there and how to do that, using some index hole in the starter plate. I could not find any indexes he talked about so I took the engine into them to do that I know now it was BS, just for more money.

 

So I'm confused with the need, or do not need the throttle pressure linkage (kickdown linkage)
with the manual valve body my trans has. HELP!!!!!!!!. Seen here where some say I do others say I don't. As sure as hell is hot I do not want to screw this up any more than what it has been. Be a shame to see a steel Hemi powered '34 (3) window going threw the jaws of the local crusher. (just kidding)

 

I have a Cheetah RMVB in one 727 here and it does not need the throttle pressure linkage. IIRC it doesn't even have a lever to connect it to at the transmission.

 

Glad to hear the Hemi is back home safe and sound.

 

Don't do that, send it to me. I'll rebuild the transmission even if it gets more screwed up than it is right now.

I think I've even got a newer trans stand now than when I did the last one. I think the wheel rusted off this one

 

FYI & you 727 guys could likely confirm, didn't the ITL Scout use some heavy duty components in their 727s?

 

I explained this to you in your previous thread, but will explain it again.

First off, just what did the rebuilder charge you for on the original invoice when the "manual valve body was installed"? What he called it and what amount for the part?

If he installed a Transgo " Stick Shift" manual valve body shift kit in your existing valve body, then the throttle pressure linkage either has to be hooked up and adjusted correctly or tied back, all the way to full throttle position. If there is a throttle pressure shaft sticking up through the manual linkage shaft, where the original lever would be attached, and it feels like its spring loaded when rotating it counter clockwise, then the throttle pressure control system is still in the valve body and has to be set up this way or the trans will operate on min. Line Pressure and have no or very little Line Pressure rise as the throttle goes from idle to full throttle and will burn up the trans.

If it has a manual valve body that was purchased from a company like TCI or Turbo Actions Cheetah manual valve body, both current valve bodies don't even have a throttle shaft sticking up through the manual shaft, so they don't need to be hooked up. The throttle pressure system has been bypassed in the valve body.

On a side note, I don't know long ago your trans was built. Older store bought manual valve bodies at some point still had to have the throttle pressure system operating or tied back.

If you are going to rebuild this trans again and are not sure just exactly what type or brand valve body you have, its best to purchase a new one. I would recommend Cheetah.

Bill

 

Another plug for a&a had issues with tci with several units,gm and chrysler

 

I'm happy to hear the Hemi is home safe and sound. Are you going back for the trans? Gene

 

Don’t take this the wrong way, but if I built you a trans, and it had pump failure, knowing that the engine that it was attached to doesn’t directly bolt up without adapters, I would also want the engine when trying to resolve the problem. “If”he built you a good trans, and you installed it on an engine that wasn’t properly indicated, it would put the cost burden on you. None of that was cleared up in the post.
Pump failure is unlikely to happen with the exception of misalignment, cooling, or debris from other failures.
Misalignment and cooling are on the installers end. Debris would indicate a failure in the trans.(Build issue)
Not condoning the delays in repair, but if he gets the vibe that you are expecting him to pay for a failure caused by installation error, he probably wasn’t enthusiastic about loosing time and money to help you.
Hope it works out for you.

 

Just in case you would like to know, the 727 in pickup trucks has more clutches in the high gear pack. If you have to start over, that could be an asset. I had a clutchflite decades ago which was full manual. No kickdown needed. I'm real happy you have your engine back.

 

Not to muddy up the issue, but this could have happened......
A friend had an Ford AOD rebuilt.
It did not work correctly after being installed.
Took a lot of time and checking everything imaginable to find out the problem was a broken front pump outer gear. We could only guess that there was a bit of debris left from the rebuild procedure that got into the close-tolerance gear set, causing it to break.

 

No doubt that one of the transmission guys will correct me but, for any given year, all of the 727 internal parts are generally interchangeable and the only difference between a small block 727 and a big block 727 is the front bell.
Another source for info is: https://transmissioncenter.net/

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Misalignment when using an adapter is possible and Mopar front pumps do not tolerate much more than 0.007 TIR. And yes, it is a PITA to check/verify alignment on a TF.
Other front pump issues have to do with fore/aft location or position/movement. On occasion, even the flexplate can add to the problems.

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Good question Gene, I don't know. I considered just grabbing it yesterday, but I'm not ready yet for the hassle over any charges he wants me to pay. For now I'll give it a week or so because he says he's still rounding up the parts needed. I don't know if that is bullshit or not, but that doesn't seem likely to me after going on 13 weeks. Although I shouldn't, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt for now.

 

Now that the engine is here my next concern is the adapter on the bellhousing and if it will mate to an aftermarket trans. like has been suggested here.
Holy shit does it ever end????????

 

It does seem parts are just a google click & phone call away......
http://smrtrans.tripod.com/smrtransmissionsintro/id40.html

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Here's the fix.... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-tcet5009

I'll agree with most of the other posters, your best course of action is to just walk away. This guy is either jerking you around or is a moron and your chances of recovering anything from him is about nil. I don't know why, but it seems like most automatic trans rebuilders have more than a touch of larceny in them...

Anyway, I hope your luck turns, your coupe is a cool car.

 

Larry, sorry for your dilemma. Since all he's waiting for is the pump and stator, tell him you'll pick up the transmission, assembled to that point, and give you a call when those parts come in. You'll square up the deal when that's complete. At least he's not holding transmission hostage, maybe give you some leverage to get it completed.

 

I wonder if the shop is taking advantage of Larry’s age? I’ve heard talk before in shops like “eff that kid” and “eff that old man”. Damned shame is what it is.

I personally don’t think he should stop legal action, small claims doesn’t cost much. But all depends on what kind of warranty was involved. I/e 90 days-mileage, etc. then there’s the old “no warranty if you install it yourself “ thing.

I recall in the 80’s folks complaining that independent shops wouldn’t rebuild the OD autos, you had to go back to the dealers. Now, that’s all they know. Makes sense. Not many shops left that will put in points for you these days either.

 

As mentioned earlier there are only two bellhousings for 727, big block and small block. So long as the aftermarket trans is the same as the one you have now, there should be no problem mating it up.

 

Plus one for the slant six- wrong the slant would be a 904 my bad

 

The 727 had a slant 6 version for trucks and vans.

 

I know that also John and I told him that also. His reply, "there is lots of different combinations and finding what is needed is what holding things up".

 

Alrighty then, thanks.