Can a Ranger rear end be narrowed?

Hello,
I've got an all Ranger driveline in my daughter's 57 Nash Metropolitan, and need to narrow the stock Ranger rear to fit. I don't want to keep the Nash rear with it's small bolt pattern, obsolete rear brakes, and difficult park brake setup.
Can this be done? I don't know if this Ford rear is an 8" or what. Thanks!

 

Most are 8.8 inchers. They can be narrowed like any other rear, but it will take some machine work and welding by someone that knows what to do.

 

They can all be narrowed if you have the money. I assume the donor had an 8.8 in it. If so you will want to change it over to 9" ends to do away with the C-clips, it makes the job easier. Any chassis shop should be able to perform it. If it is actually an 8.8 have them weld the axle tubes to the differential carrier at the same time

 

depending on how much you need to narrow it, measure both sides and if the difference is what you need buy another axle for the short side and have the tube cut down, fairly eazy and cheap job.

 

I like that 9" ends idea, I'll certainly try to find some.
Jim, if I do that, wouldn't it offset the pinion housing quite a bit? Its a small car with minimal work area.

 

I would look closley because if it is from an earlyer ranger (from the 80's) it might have a 7.5. Not that it can not be done, but it just might not be worth spending the money on.

 

can't you run another type rearend? lots of different widths/gear ratios out there

 

It's what we have, and the pinion flange matches the driveshaft (same truck donor). And the shaft matches the tranny.

It's a 1986 vintage rear. Little 2.3 won't kill a 7.5 if thats what it is.

 

The pinion is offset from the factory on the Ford Ranger rear ends. The one I using on the Falcon is from a 92 Ranger 4X4 has big brakes and is offset. The neat thing the shop has to only shorten one tube and use a axle from the other side.

jim h

 

I think the 2 wheel drive ranger has a centered pinion, but yah the 4 by 4 is ofset.

 

I talked to a differential shop yesterday, suggested I get a Falcon rear, since it has the 4 lug drums I need. That sounds hard to find locally.

 

Postal JEEPs have Dana rears in many. Some are down around 50 inch from drum face to drum face. Watch out for the ones with the 2 piece axle like the Ramblers and AMC.

 

I doubt that even postal jeep rearends will be narrow enough for the Metropolitan. And, I agree the Ranger, if a 7.5, is more than adequate especially considering that it was OEM with the same running gear and is now in an even lighter weight vehicle.

As for 4 lug ford read ends, a Falcon is only one of many to be found. All early 6 cyl Falcon, Comet, Mustang, Fairlane etc. and later Fox Body Mustangs used 4 lug axles (7.5 & 8.8) if that is important. There are also 8" 4 lug axles in Mustang II's which are non-"C" clip type'

Perhaps you can get by with only narrowing one side of the rearend and using a second short side axle, but don't be surprised if it requires more narrowing than that to achieve the correct width. If so, it may mean cutting down much longer axles to get the diameter needed for re-spline or custom axles.

Best wishes,

Ray

 

Q. My wife has 63 Merc. Comet 4 lug,want to R&R with a ranger rear did you leave that offset 1 or 2" offset ? Or do you cut down the rear ? Thanks Lou. M.

 

Front Track : 45.0 in | 1143 mm. Rear Track : 44.0 in | 1118 mm.
Almost everything will need narrowing to suit that track. 31 spline axles can be narrowed and resplined as shafts don't step down, 28 spline can't be narrowed and resplined due to step down and taper.

 

Get any rear you want with straight tubes; there are a dozen how-tos on YouTube to narrow a 8.8 so do it for a 7.5 or one of the Falcon 4 bolts.
Measure the right length and cut the axles the length you want. Slide a sleeve over one side, weld then together, grind to flush, slide over the sleeve, weld each side. My Pontiac was done this way 45+ years ago and is still in my LSR roadster which had over 700 hp and perfect. I’ve even changed bearings by sliding over the sleeve. Hot rodding is the mother of invention. The outside tubes are the easiest especially with a Mig today. All mine was done with a DC stick.

 

It pays to check the dates on threads when you dig them up. This one is from ten years ago and the person you have asked hasn't been here since 2014.