Projects '23 Ford Roadster build aka The Incredible Hulk

The top rail was tacked with mig and welded with tig.
So far, with the exception of tacking and spot welding, all the welding on the body of this car has been with tig.
I've had this machine for close to twenty years and am just now forcing myself to learn how to use it.

 

That's what I thought, thinking that MIG would be somewhat easier while trying to position a part to tack it. I believe I've said it before, but your entire build is nicely done and inspiring as to what can be done with skill and plenty of patience.

Lynn

 

Outriggers to floor framework..

 

Awesome work Paul. You keep me motivated!

 

A couple of things:
I always wondered why those areas between the outside of the frame rails and the body weren't opened up to allow for little storage cubbyholes. They would end up catching anything rolling across the floor, but Ts never have enough space... even a pocket for paperwork, gl***es/goggles and a soft hat would be useful.
Are you considering moving the battery box forward enough so it's between the floor bracing? Maybe it's the angle, but it looks like the rear of the battery is going to catch on the frame.
As always, these are just observations, not criticizing your fine work.

EDIT: thanks for the replies!
Not even enough for one of these by the seat?
https://www.****ies.com/tool-bags/small-wrench-/-tool-organizer-roll/57007BD++AL.html

 

It is the camera angle, there is just enough room to access the battery through a door in the floor.

 

And I have considered doors to access the "rocker" areas.. there is just enough room for a 1/2" wrench in one and a 9/16" in the other on each side.

 

Teaser picture..

 

Looks like this will be one of the sturdiest ( structurally sound ) T's I have seen . I am enjoying your build!

 

ok, backing up a few days..

worked on front corners

 

welded the floor framework to the body
and bolted the body to the frame

 

Man you're good @Paul...

 

rolled it outside to turn it around to work on the p***enger side

 

working on door jambs and body bracing

 

checking seating location..
yes, I still fit.. barely

 

Really nice work on the body and the floor webbing.
And the overall stance is spot on.

 

Door slam'n

 

Very stout construction on all the sub frame and interior, good use of some square tubing.

 

Lowering the turtle deck, it really bugged me how high it sat, means redoing the notch over the upper shock mounts, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do..

 

Glad to see that you are making that change, it didn't look right to me either!

 

Great resonance and a big proud smile I'll bet...

Damn near jumped out of my chair...

​

 

Moving turtle shock notches up 1-1/2"
To lower deck like amount
Sheet metal rough in done both sides.

 

You really do nice work! Lowering the deck was the right move in my opinion. I always like the tires to stand up higher than the trunk on the turtle deck T's. Maybe because I spent so much time looking at pics of Iskys car when I was younger. Its kinda the standard against which all T's are judged in my mind

 

Thanks, the 8.20-16 is right flush with the top, the alternate (right now) L78-15 is just a skosh below.

You can see the big dirt tires a few posts back,
Here's the street (still relatively big) tires..

This is essentially no load

 

Working on the body,
getting rid of weld warp highs and lows.

 

Working it slowly with fire, water, wood and steel.
Oil canning is gone,
only needs a little love to smooth things out.

 

Excellant work Paul ... but I except that from you after 21 years.

 

Trying a slightly different technique shrinking this time.
I used to do it all with heat, hammer and dolly and wet rag.
This time I bought a small wood mallet and put a slight crown on one face and made a wood dolly of rock hard maple.
Heat the area that needs shrinking then
using either the wood hammer and dolly
or steel hammer and wood dolly
or wood hammer and steel dolly
I get a lot more control of the metal
and a lot less work hardening.
The plastic hammer and steel dolly works great on cool steel too.
Then finally smooth it out gently with hammer on dolly.
My tendency before was to work too much hammer on dolly and end up not only work hardening but stretching the area back some.
I was fighting myself.
This approach is much more gentle and works so much better.

 

Awesome, that’s great information as well

 

Paul Great info. I've got a 26 Chevy roadster body that will have to have several areas along the bottom replaced. Will try your method!