I use one of these 1000 Litre (~250 Gallon) plastic chemical tanks for my mol***es mix. Carefully cut out the top and fit rubber strip overlays. They allow you to fully dip bigger pieces, usually can get them here for ~$100 or less.
@31coupe @-Brent- that’s not a bad idea! My friend usually has a bunch at the shop, they heat during the winter with used motor oil and store it in those I believe.
48 hours in the pool and you can tell the mixture was weak and settled in some areas more than others but it’s good enough for cleaning things up for storage/ banging on.
The silver wheel has one bent spoke and the inside is crusty but in the photo where it sat in better stronger acid you can see the white line where the fluid level was and the almost Magnesium color of the “clean” metal so I think it’s not as bad as it looks. lots of grease on that one as well. I didn’t make any effort of cleaning them before dunking them so I think a wire brush and an afternoon and they’ll clean up. though I’m wondering if I shouldn’t cut bait and find a better one. guess time will tell. I rinsed them with dawn dish soap and 20 gallons of hot water instead of the hose and sprayer because it’s in for the winter. I’ll mess with them laters just wanted them cleaned up some before they land under a work bench or on a shelf
Was gonna wait til I had it In hand but I’m to excited. Header is smoothed painted and ready to bolt back on. i had a 9-10 year old can of high heat paint and after painting it found that it wasnt drying. Trying to sand a run out it just gummed and pilled up. So it all got taken back down to metal, smoothed some more little spots that bugged him and painted with a new can of paint. Can wait to see it together
@Tim, I remember tuning into this thread when you started it, and now it's super cool to revisit it with fresh eyes. I'm now subscribed so I won't miss a beat
Thanks guys. @J.Ukrop its been awesome watching not only your build but how the content you’re producing is shifting along with it. It is noticeably better in my eyes. Your roadster is going to be awesome!
@Tim how are you going to attach the rest of tmy he exhaust? Clamp? Weld on? I don't see a provision for that.
Tim when I spray on the POR surface etch it even eats a little of the leftover rust that my mol***es didn’t get if I didn’t leave it in long enough. I’m using a 50gal plastic garbage can on my grill shell, garnish moldings and a bunch of smaller stuff. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
bailing wire it’s traditional. No, not really. Lol. I’m going to cut a triangle ish flange out of 1/4 plate. I’m going to add it when we do the rest of the exhaust figuring there could be a slight tweak to the flange that would make life easier so we’ll wait to mock up head pipes before adding the flange. I also want to fully mock the section up to make sure the flange is clocked in a way that I can actually get to the bolts
It really screwed me up when they went to the colored twine. Bailing wire fixes are a folk art. My friend wrote a song named "I'd like to Thank the Guy Who Left the Bailing Wire Hanging On the Fence". It got him out of a bad situation.
Yea I have trouble getting the orange stuff to stick in the right areas! My previous baler was wire tie, have two new rolls of it........If I could only remember where I put it!!!!!!!!
When I was a kid our old bailer had a long tube with straight pieces of wire in it and you pulled them out and fed them by hand into the machine. It took one person to drive the tractor that pulled the bailer and two people to run it. I've seen some very colorful things made of the twine reminiscent of the horse hair hitching technique , belts, suspenders, hat bands, headstalls, halters.... Give people material and they'll make stuff.
Very nice! What kind of clearance do you have to the steering box? Don't forget the Ford/Miller Indy cars.
@Six Ball yeah my 46 is super tight and it’s been ten years so I kinda gauge what kind of space I really need off that and @flatout51 model A because he did actually lock his up on the way to the drags a few years ago. it actually had a primary touching the steering tube close to where it sleeves over the box but by the time the pipes were “m***aged” and convinced to fit the collector ive got st least a 1/2 inch clearance. Should be plenty edit: the 46 is close to the box directly where this is the tube/ mast mostly and quote far from the box itself. I’ll measure later
Closest the two forward primaries come to the box is at the bend where they turn towards the rear of the car. The close one is at least an inch behind the box and the second closest is 2 inches back and an inch over. So probably 2 inches away diagonally/ as the bird flys
Got the intake on with two nuts. I’ll need to see how the bolts and hold downs need modified for the rest of the holes now
Thanks guys I’m pretty pleased with it. Got a good scuff in the paint from something dropping on it but it’ll need some paint when we weld a flange on anyways so I’m not to upset about it. onto the next step... which should probably be go replace the voltage regulator in the 46 so I can drive to work lol
While @Austin kays Is building inventory for his old ford factory I spotted this in a photo! early A side spare frame mount! I called dibs now I only need another arm and I’ll have the set for the car completed
Thinking about trying to shove the 46 and the A next to each other in one stall so I can have some shop space back over the winter. Parked over towards the center and mocked up a grill and wheels. I know if I put both cars on Dolly’s they fit but I need to be able to get the 46 out with out moving it on Dolly’s or moving the A hopefully have it out in the next week or so and I’ll try it for real... with a parking spotter though lol
The Jalopy Journal
