I bought a fairly rust free 56 ford the other day for a 1000 bucks. It is all original including the 223 and is fairly good condition. The original 1 owner vehicle has been stripped of its original paint which is a bummer, but nonetheless I digress. At first I wanted to keep the original i6, but after working on it for the last week and not getting it to start I have been thinking about an engine and transmission swap. So i have read through this forum stickies and the quite a bit on this forum, but I still need help. Please chim in as I am new to old cars. Familiar with Harleys and squarebody chevy pickups, this is a whole new world to me. Objective- To turn the 56 into a DD which has a dependable v8 that is fast(er) and loud with a stick shift from the floor. Abilities: I can wrench, I am patient, I can follow directions, I CANNOT FABRICATE (please keep this in mind) Thoughts -FE engine seems like the most logical engine (seems like a straight swap?) --is this a direct engine mount --Any fire wall or steering changes? --Radiator swap needed? Front Suspension -do the suspension rebuild kit with disc brake conversion (is this the right move?) Read Suspension -Swap to 9in? What am I missing? I do not mind cutting away any of the body and trying to learn to weld in those areas, however I am terrified of trying to weld or fabricate anything on the frame. I sincerely appreciate everyones time in this matter. I am pretty stressed out about this project as I want it to be a safe car for myself and the old lady when she wants to drive it (but not much!). Thanks all, CW
Welcome to the group! Sounds like you are working your way toward a solid plan and doing your homework. What kind of daily are you talking? Depending on how far you have to go everyday and how much money you want to spend on gas, that might head you in a good direction. An FE will drink the gas which may not be a problem depending on what you are going for. I was recently considering a daily that had a 390 in it, but decided against it since I drive on average about 100 miles a day and gas mileage plays in some. I personally haven't done a swap and still run the y-block in my 56, but am starting to see why folks do swaps as my current daily I just bought is a 60 Thunderbird with an injected 4.6 and A4OD transmission making it a great driver that gets over 20 mpg and still runs quite a bit better than the original 352 FE likely did. I'm sure some will jump in here and help you from their experience.
What he said ^^^. I personally have gone the swap route in mine to the SBF with AOD. Much easier to find parts for, less expensive to maintain, and better on gas as Guthrie mentioned. The swap did not require any major fabrication and everything you need to know is covered in the FAQ's or can be found with a search within the group. You also have an advantage with the I6 car (mine was orignally an I6 car as well) in that the radiator core support and front gravel shield are already moved forward and setup for this swap. Good luck with any route you take. You are in the right place to have your questions answered. Welcome aboard!
I'm doing a 302/AOD swap into my '54. That would probably be your best bet for an engine swap. If you're going to a manual trans there may be a bit of fabrication involved. Not much though. A stock front end rebuild is good but keep in mind if you're going disc brakes the appropriate master cylinder is required. As far as rearend, 9" rears are great but expensive. I'm running the stock '54 rear in my car which should be fine for it's intended use. Another option that's much less expensive is a Ford 8" rear. Lots of gear choices and fairly stout too.
+1 on what Evintho said on the 8.8 Rear - I got mine out of a junkyard for $250, and just had it shortened, carrier and pinion rebuilt, and p***enger axle to replace the longer driver side (the FAQ has great resources on this!) - 3.73 gears and positrac, all in for $500. Pretty sweet setup!
I swapped out my 6 cyl for a y block. Pretty basic swap. Most parts are easy to find and do not need modifications. I drive the hell out of mine and with the 3 speed OD it will cruise all day at 75 mph. A well built block will perform just as well as a 5.0. Although it may be as bit pricier it's was belongs under the hood in my opinion.
After going back and re-reading what all you are asking, I’m going to agree with 56longroof about just stabbing a y-block and 3-speed in the car. I suspect that would get you want you are looking for and be the most “right” for the car with it basically being a stock setup for the most part. The car could have easily came with that setup from the factory other than changing it to floor shift. I have considered changing my automatic to a 3-speed OD in my car but changed my mind. I do have the transmission though that I don’t need if you decide to go that way.
If you have a Y-Block with the later 2 barrel intake and have the bucks some of the guys on the facebook Y-block site fell in love with this: https://www.holley.com/brands/holle...s/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_2300_2bbl/ Also for the Six in A Row crowd there is this: https://www.holley.com/products/fue...er_efi_autolite_1100_one_barrel/parts/550-552
Here is an older thread from the Main board that might make you want to get creative: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-223-turbocharger-set-ups.770821/ The 7.5 to 1 compression ratio for the 223 would be close to ideal if you can fab there are plenty of turbos in the Pick A Parts now days so you could do it on a budget.
My wagon came with a 312 (yes, real one) that was junk so I went through the popular transplants, but went with a 292 y block mostly because I already had all the exterior parts ( exhaust, power steering, etc) Had the 312 crank turned, already had the heads, intake, dist etc. and 292 went to 330 cu in, and dynoed 300 hp. Enough HP for DD and cruisng for me. But thats an expensive build. The thought of buying a modern junkyard engine and trusting it, plus knowing nothing about todays powerplants just worries me. Then there's the transmission --AOD seems the most popular, unfamiliar with what is required for install. I went with a 4r70w trans/controller. The main thing is that it all has to work together (engine RPM, trans ratios, rear gears, tire size, etc, for smooth operation. The more work you can do, the lower the cost.
Just a note on what not to do since several guys brought it up. On the "new school" drivetrains,.......I have a 4.6 dohc/4R70W in my '57, and I love it, but it won't fit in older than '57s without major fabrication...........new front frame clip is the most popular way to go on the 55-56's, but as I said, that's lots of fabrication and expense. 5.0s will go without having to change the front clip. You asked about FE's. JFYI, as mentioned, what would have come in the 56 for a v8 would have been a Y block. Fe's didn't start until '58. Yes, for a DD, front rebuild and disc brakes are the way to go imho. Rear discs are a tossup, but if you go with the 8.8 later rear, it's gonna have the disc brakes already. I went with rear discs on mine because I was doing a few small things that added up making wider tire changes easier. Rotors are easier to get a wide tire over than drums. To elaborate on the Explorer (and others?) rear ends......they are off centered and too wide, but it works out that if the longer axle is replaced with another shorter axle*, it centers it and makes it the correct width. *edit: shorter axle AND bolt on axle housing
Very happy to notice bobss396 clicked the like ****on on my above post....... the first I've noticed from him in months.
Ok all, you guys are truly amazing and helpful. I have the 3 speed Manual transmission, will the y block literally be plug and play because if so I am all for it. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks so much
A y-block should literally bolt right in as far as I know and I don’t know of any fabrication you would have to do since they came with those. Someone else will have to speak up to the differences between the 6 cylinder and y-block cars as far as mounting, etc. though.
As long as you have the matching p***enger car Y-block bell housing and clutch linkage plus the flywheel and clutch ***embly you will be OK. Now if you want help finding those parts the members can't help you if you don't post your location.
Jeff, Salt Lake City, second post. That baby has to have cancer judging from all the other cars in Utah.
It was a one owner car its whole life from Arizona!!!! Thanks for all the info. Working on front end next week. Complete rebuild (any recommendations on reputable rebuild manufacturers?) and a front disc brake conversion (again, would love any recommendations). Found a rebuild 292 y block with new mounts, the flywheel- which is a good start. Figure I can start with that y block and learn it and work/build it up over time as I get some familiarity with it. You guys have been awesome. thanks so much. CW
This guy has a lot of 55-56 Fords parting out check out his Avatar in the upper left https://www.facebook.com/Rudys-Cl***ic-Auto-Chop-Shop-1527267377494142
No contact info on his Facebook page, found this on Roadkill Customs. Rudy’s Cl***ic Auto & Chop Shop ~ Harvard, Nebraska 68944 ~ CALL for Details and Prices: 402-469-5703
The Y block will be a simple installation, but if you intend to build it take a little more time and research the singular "quirks" of these engines, which you must improve for a better rebuild. One reason I had a Y block Pro build mine. A great Y Block specific site is Y Blocksforever forum (may not be taking members right now) but you can read postings, John Mummerts site, and this Hamb group will be always be a major help in your journey.
I also give a nod of the head to the Y Block, that 292 will move it along just fine and it won't kill the wallet at the gas pump. I have a 312 Y Block in my '56 with the water cooled Fordomatic and it does a great job.
If you're going to do all the work, treat yourself to some nice brakes. We just had this discussion in another tread, but I am a HUGE proponent for Wilwood's Dynalite kit. I have a Wilwood master and dynalite kit on my '53 and it was a breeze to install and they stop amazingly. https://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Brake...ear=1956&make=Ford&model=Mainline&option=Base
This is incredible information. This is all incredible information. That brake kit makes a lot. I really appreciate it. Any front rebuild kits that anyone would recommend? This is the one I was looking at, but dont know much about it. https://stores.a-resto-parts.com/pr...lXFGe7VZhNcRkUcLR9pkZX9b3RZ8pjXYaAs8cEALw_wcB
To put a y block in you will need- radiator, motor mounts, bellhousing, clutch push rod,flywheel, pressure plate,etc, engine accessories. I'm sure I'm missing a thing or two. I bought a new radiator from Champion. It fit well and cools my 300 hp y block perfectly.
I'm a little late to the party but, that's the same rebuild kit I used on my '54. Overall it seemed to be fairly decent quality. I was pleasantly surprised! In addition, it looks like they dropped the price a little. I think I paid a little over $200 back in May. 1954-1956 Ford Mercury Full Size New Front End Suspension Rebuild Kit - www.a-resto-parts.com (a-resto-parts.com)
The Jalopy Journal
