Cadillac Porn!! A little something I'm working on!

Here it is. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7824&highlight=cadillac

 

wow good reading thanks

 

By the way i tried hammering the shaft down to hopefully bring down the rotor clearence and nothing.

 

I wonder if its defective.You said its an NOS unit? I have come learn that alot of "NOS" Stuff is "NOS" for a reason..alot of times they were defective and just got thrown back into inventory or unmarked as being defective only to end up in the hands of someone 40-50 years later..Believe me, that happens too..

 

nope stock...I do know that Robert Lomas with the black 34 converted his Mallory to HEI
and he said that he dropped it right in and it ran like champ... I don't know if hes a HAMBEr..

 

You should check out http://www.geocities.com/td67mustang/ AKA VintageIgnitions
on here he might be able to answer your Mallory questions...
He also an Alliance Vendor..

 

I believe you have the wrong cap, it should be a 24004, not just 4004. The 24004 has "flat" contacts and not "stepped" as in the 4004. I have added pics! I use the spring loaded 24215B rotors with this cap, this is on my 390 Cadillac Magspark, hope this helps Love the engine!!

 

I looked on eBay for the rotor model number 24215C and it seems like it sits lower on the shaft. Maybe the 24215C rotor goes with the 4004 cap?

 

Exactly what I am thinking as well, this pic is originally off this forum

 

It also looks like the metal piece on the rotor is shorter on the 24215C compared to the 24215B. Also I noticed that the 24215B rotor has a spring on it unlike the 24215C. That's weird cause my 4004 cap has a carbon center and is also spring loaded. I've never seen both the rotor and the cap both spring loaded. So i'm sure I have a wrong rotor or cap. I'm going to buy the rotor on eBay and I'll see what happens. Thanks for the info.

 

Cool, Let us know how it turns out when you get the other rotor, it is always good to know what our options are on replacement parts!

 

Sweet engine!...nice,...real nice.

 

right on

 

Ah.. just send me the engine and put a Chevy in it...LOL! Just Kiddin

 

Hahaha! Too much time, money, and being bitched at by the girlfriend to just put a Chevy. I think I have it figured out though. I think I have the wrong rotor. The one I have is too long. The rotor I have is for the older brown cap 24004 and not the black newer cap 4004. Thanks for all the help.

 

Cut it down to clear the cap, i've seen better exhaust readings with the rotor matched to the cap.

The pertronix is a really good deal. I just dropped it in on my 429 and it cleaned up the idle tremendously.

What you got for a cam?

 

Im actually thinking about installing the pertronix setup since I've only heard good things about it. I can't just grind the rotor down since both the cap and rotor are spring loaded. Only one or the other should be spring loaded. I have the wrong rotor.

I have an ISKY cam in it but I don't remember exactly what kind of grind it has.

 

Does anyone know the model number of pertronix I would use with my Mallory ZCM distributor 303A?

 

I believe there is only 1 pertronix kit. Whats so different about the mallory to the factory dist?

 

The Mallory is a dual points distributor.

 

Almost cartainly a mis-match of cap and rotor arm The picture shown of the three arms the one in mine is nearest to the right hand side one. Looks like the long arm rotor matches to the short button cap. The short arm rotor matches the cap with the 'half cut away' brass terminals.
The rotor can also sit high mine did just carving a little of the underside bakelite out before I realised , don't hammer it though just a litlt tweaking this way and that and she should drop a little.
Keep going with it they are real nice once set up.
Have you noticed that both the strong and light bob weight springs can be tensioned individually to allow a 100 percent mapping of the advance curve. Leave alone until you have got it running though.

good luck and have fun

 

I know it’s been 11 years since the last update here. But I’m pretty sure that this is the engine I started for the first time yesterday, after the rebuild in 2009. It’s now installed in my 1935 Ford.

 

Good looking motor, just been through the thread.
What’s the generator/alternator?
Fits in that position well!
Thanks

 

How is that lawn tractor/industrial engine alternator working out for you? They are pretty low amp and I never thought of using one on a hot rod build, it looks really clean. Where are you going to mount the regulator/rectifier combo at?



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www.speedoservice.com
Should I rush your rush job or the rush job I was rushing when you rushed in?

 

It’s a unit use on industrial engines like Kohler engines on John Deere tractors. They are permanent magnet and put out AC voltage that is then rectified to DC by an external regulator rectifier. They are low amp but put out as soon as they start turning.


Sent from my iPhone
www.speedoservice.com
Should I rush your rush job or the rush job I was rushing when you rushed in?

 

Haven’t driven it yet. I’m upgrading the brakes and putting in a new rear end also, so want know for sure before next summer how well the alternator will work. But I couldn’t figure out a better way to have a charging system and still run hood sides. The regulator is mounted on the frame rail. The alternator out put is 20amps if my memory is right, and that should be enough for normal driving with lights on. With a lot of short trips or sitting in traffic with fan and lights on it could be a problem, but I don’t mind having to charge the battery when parked at home. So I think it will be fine.

 

That is a pretty engine install. Nicely done.

 

Wow that looks great! I was also thinking about mounting a generator where you did, but then there is a fuel pump issue.
There is not enough room for a mechanical fan. I have less than 1/2" from the water pump pulley bolts to the radiator and it’s leaning backwards so no room. I could have moved the engine back more, but then I would have run into a hole lot of other problems. Moving firewall, steering column, pedal assembly, cut a lot out of the x member and loose leg room..