1952-59 Ford Back on it

After 8 months of fending off life's little tests and getting nothing done on my project, I'm ready to get back to my project 56 Ranch Wagon. I've been able to follow the group,and you guys have been a lifeline to keep my hopes of finishing this alive. Thankfully , when I had my y block built and in the frame, I set it up to be run in the frame, and I installed a Masterlube Pre oiling system, as I knew I would be working on it sporadically (8 months!). I love this system! No pulling the distributor or other tricks to avoid a dry start. Flip a toggle switch and your engine starts with full oil pressure. I have no stake in this company, I believe it has closed, as I wanted to contact them again. There are other pre-oilers out there, I just never saw an honest review of any.
Letting a vehicle sit in my climate (hot,humid,salt encrusted) can be a real test of one's resolve and rust protection /prevention products. I have little chrome (valve covers/alternator), but have avoided any rusting on these by using Sharkhyde. I hope I'm not breaking any rules here by mentioning names, but we all want to know what REALLY works. On to my project.
Since this build is intended to be a regular driver, I would like some input as to what other members have used to rustproof/ protect their frames and underbody. While a beautiful epoxy paint job, or powdercoating would be stunning, its doubtful either would survive long in this climate. I'm thinking that sandblasting,completly eliminate rust, epoxy prime 2 coats, then a quality bedliner material is my best shot. Both underbody and frame. I understand it may chip some from road debris,etc, but I'm willing to touch up yearly if needed. So if I can COMPLETELY eliminate existing rust and prime, would bedliner or undercoating create any rust issues? Short of moving to the desert , any ideas.? If I cant find something, this project will be over. mate

 

Welcome back! I take it you live by the ocean.
I don't have the hot, humid, salt encrusted climate you do ( I'm in California's wine country) and I've never used POR-15 Rust Preventative Coating but I have used regular POR-15 and I can testify that stuff is hard as a rock! Check out the RPC. It might just be the ticket you're looking for.
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating

 

I agree with evintho, por-15.......... Everything that was not topcoated with finish paint on my car was por-15'd. Before you do it, research, research research! Doing it properly, where and where it should not be used is paramount to a successful job. I don't think I've ever used any other product that has to be paid attention to instructions and warnings as much as por-15, but well worth it imho. You specifically mentioned undercarriage..............after stripping my car underneath to bare metal, and repairing all rust issues, I treated it with por-15's zinc phosphate metal prep, then por-15'd, then bulldog adhesion promotor, then paintable latex based undercoating (2 coats), then single stage. Only issue I had in a few places 6 or 7 years later, is with the undercoating in a few places separating between the mentioned 2 coats! the few spots paint peeled off had undercoating on the backside of the topcoat paint, but still had undercoat on the car!! It was like the undercoating was sticking to everything but itself. Probably something I did wrong..window of time, etc.

 

Why POR-15 is different............it's an encapsulator. Almost all primers, paints, and clearcoats are porous when they dry due to the evaporation of solvents in the product. POR-15 technically is a 2 part product, with the second part being small amounts of moisture it absorbs from the air. Moisture is the active activator. When it sets up, it is not porous, thus sealing off the metal from air and further moisture. It's a great adhesive, it's hard, but flexible.

 

I would be thrilled to get 6 or 7 years in my instance. I have done quite a bit of research via U-tube comparisons tests and POR-15 is always near the top, it does have strict application guidelines, but I dont mind attention to detail. Or the amount of work, if it comes out as expected. About a year ago, I tried to halt the rust temporarily, until I could get to this and do a complete proper job. I did replace the rear floor pans and a section at front driver area. The rest of the underbody was amazingly solid, only because it was totally undercoated when new. When I heated and could chip the original undercoat, I could have waxed the original paint underneath. The old stuff worked, wish it was available now. Anyway, I scuffed all the painted areas, used Rust converter on the pinhole surface rust, left a small area of the original undercoat, used Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, 2 coats, then Eastwood Rubberized Undercoat. Just trying to hold status quo until now. Body has sat outside and inside garage on body cart and the underbody has surface rusted everywhere. Appreciate the input, need real life experiences. I will check POR again.

Thanks, glad to be here again. I' ll check it out.

 

M car is garaged, I'm close to the ocean but not that close. I just wire wheeled my ch***is to clean steel and gave it a couple of coats of VHT ch***is and roll cage matte black. This was in 2014 and still holding up well.

 

After reviewing PORs tech sheet, it seems my main problem will be the relentless humidity, which will cause an immediate surface cure and resulting in bubbling/lifting. Higher the humidity, the faster the cure. I have to do this outside, and there's VERY few days of low humidity anytime of the year. Called POR and discussed that issue, decided it wasn't going to be an option for me. They did say sandblasting was the best way to begin, then follow their guidelines, if that helps anyone. Did you scuff sand between the 2 coats of undercoat? Maybe that caused the peeling?
I came across a product called Steel-It, basically and industrial coating, and they are sending a 4 oz sample for me to test. It seems too toxic for me to mess with on a large scale but I'll do a test and let the group see the results.
To do this underbody work, I will have to build a "tip over" jig, and I will do my best to do***ent this whole
process if it happens. Fun for all.

 

I cleaned my ch***is (front to crossmember mostly) in the summer heat, not fun at all. The VHT paint in spray cans went on nicely. If you have a Sherwin Williams store around, I'd talk to them. I bought some industrial paint from them when I was in college.

 

I'm kinda surprised whatever POR-15 tech told you led you to believe it may not be an option for you. I knew excess moisture was a problem, but I thought/was told?/read? it was only a cosmetic issue. When I was doing my floorpans, one section at a time, I was getting a unbelievably good finish for brush painting 4 or 5 days in a row. Then it was raining outside when I did another section, and after drying, that section looked like I had painted it with sand textured paint. That was when I called their tech line. I'm sure I was told it was only a cosmetic issue though, and did not effect the protection aspect.
Thanks for posting your info!!

 

I went to POR's Technical Page and under product description it describes how high humidity can cause immediate surface cure, resulting in bubbling. In bold type it advises low to medium humidity, as it dries faster with moisture. I just asked if that info was correct and it was. If it wasn't a steamy summer day when your rainstorm happened, most likely my guess is it wouldn't be a problem, but it may have started drying in the container, etc. Certainly hope not. We also have a salt content in our humidity, which cant help. While POR may be the best for other locations, my search continues.
Several years ago I helped a friend put bedliner inside his jeep we took to the beach fishing and it held up at least till about a year later he moved. No idea what brand it was.

 

Thought I would post an update to this thread.
I didn't build a "tip over" jig. Its already on a body cart ( but built to ride height of vehicle- low). I spent more time blocking it up higher/taking it down due to frequent hurricane/storm threats, I just laid on my back and did the work. I sandblasted every nook and cranny I could find, applied 2 coats epoxy primer, and finally went with Lizardskin heat coating only. Chose Lizardskin because I had already done the interior last year, and it was in great condition while the underside started rusting . So this will be a test. Have some sheetmetal work to do on inside lower rear quarters, so no Lizardskin in those small areas. There is a Topcoat for Lizardskin but its a cosmetic addition, and I've seen enough of the underbody. I went and bought the DE Kups starter kit so I could spray primer overhead and it worked out as expected, just FYI. And Lizardskin gun kit comes with a 90 degree fitting to spray overhead. Once the %$#& blasting was done, it went pretty quick and easy.

 

I used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator 3 years ago, with several thick coats laid down.
I've got rust creeping through now.
This stuff was too expensive to not work.

 

I dont know how long to expect any rust encapsulator to last, the rust is still there, so any break/cracking of the encapsulator spells failure. I was hoping it would hold rust off for a year, got about 8 months. I have no idea how long this process I used will last, but I did a lot of research and used quality materials, its the best I can do. Rust never sleeps.