Use original spec 97’s and run straight linkage. If it runs fat just jet it down. You’ll be surprised how well it will run with clean, tight carbs.
Best source for me was the Ceridono book linked below. There is a section on tuning one of the early baby hemis with a four deuce manifold. As I recall, the section author is a poster here. Basically, he starts with the carbs jetted down and gradually increases jetting until its dialed in. https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1414479.Complete_Chrysler_Hemi_Engine_Manual
Here are the two centers, only one with idle screw. So I ***ume there the centers. Also they have a big 97, what’s that mean? Any idea what year etc?
73RR thank you, I’m very fortunate to have her, it’s a blessing to have a wife that supports, and vise versa.
The top casting with two bosses on the right side is from a 48 Stromberg. The ones with three bosses are from 97 Strombergs. The middle casting with no 97 is probably a 48 as well. Look for a small "48" stamped on the edge of it somewhere. They were produced in about 1934. I think 97's were started in 1936. All your bases have been modified to remove all the choke linkage stuff, and those are what originally had the idle adjustment screw in it. The one that still has the screw has a small chunk of the linkage welded to the top edge of the base. If they didn't close off the internal idle circuits you don't really have "secondary" carbs.
Alchemy, the no 97 marking also has three bosses. I can’t find a 48 marking.... 1) does it matter that some have 48 tops? 2) if they didn’t close of the internal idle circuit, can I still run them as a set? 3) how do I tell if the internal idle circuit has been closed?
1-1/32 doesn't equal 97; probably should measure the bores. Was this supposed to be a "was as ran" set- up or a collection of an intake, linkage, and six carbs
The one marked 2-21B was a replacement carburetor for 85 HP Ford engines. The carburetor was released 6 December 1948. From the pictures, this appears to be a "swap meet special", made to sell, from the vendor's pile of carburetors. Not saying it would impossible to make this work, but I believe you would be better served to have some patience, and acquire six matching carbs, and basically use these for spare parts. Jon
I saw that also...from the picture I saw when I bought them, they were all connected together with linkage. The person I bought them from knew far less than me as he was selling them as an estate sale. It was dissemble for shipping. It looks like they were sitting ***embled together for a long time, I can see the marking on the linkage and tell which linkage went were. They all have the same paint on the base, fading away. It appears they aged the same rate, which makes me believe they were running as a set. Not pieced together. also, now that I think about it, I don’t think 97 was a measurement for bore size......?
Your linkage is not progressive so if it was actually ever ran, it most likely was never used on the street. Flat out wide open is more forgiving on missmatched carbs than sitting at a stoplight or manuvering thru traffic. I would be very surprised if you can make this exact set of carbs work for you on the street. You will probably need 3 or 4 more to get enough good parts for 6 carbs.
This crossed my mind also...but a lot of people here run straight on the street. I was advised on here to run straight. But wouldn’t you want exact carbs especially for racing, every little thing counts in racing? But having all the choke removed makes your theory possible
There is a million grades of "racing". Just because it was sitting together and went down a track once doesn't mean it did it well. Might have just been thrown together by some wannabees with no skill. They obviously didn't care about matching parts up. If the carbs were on a log manifold the mixture would probably equalize a bit in the common plenum before it ****ed into the individual port. I pieced together a pair of 97's from a pile and thought I had them matched pretty well. After a couple years of average performance I sent them to Uncle Max and he told me I had a few parts that shouldn't be used together. Even though Strombergs seem simple, they can be mucked up. But Uncle Max fixed all the problems I shipped to him.
When I take them apart, I’ll see what I got inside, jet, ventris etc.right now the bore size at the base plate are all the same. There is no play at the ****erfly and the mechanics is smooth. So we see.... why does log vs “flat” manifold matter?
I’ve read on the Ham that there’s not much difference between big 97 and small 97, just logo size. so it shouldn’t be a problem to run em as a set up? Or find all big logo etc?
The big logo on the side doesn't mean the bore is bigger. Just made from a different mold. But, be aware that the New Stromberg is making a 97 with a larger bore, but I think they still say 97 on the side. Don't confuse it when some says big logo 97 vs. the new Big 97.
Right, I was talking big logo 97 vs small logo 97, them being the same thing and running them in one set up.
Looks like you have a mixed bag of carbs. Those marked "1 1/32" are the larger carbs (1 1/32" bore as opposed to the 97's 31/32 bore), typically referred to as a '48'. The 48s are rated at 177cfm while the 97s are rated at 155. I had four 48s on a 331 Chrysler Hemi with non-progressive linkage and it ran great, but it tool a LOT of work to get everything working as it should (reamed throttle shaft bores, new throttle shafts, new ****erflies, matching jets, new a/f screws, decked surfaces, etc). The biggest thing when it comes to these old carbs is to verify exactly what you have and to rebuild them properly. That doesn't mean new gaskets and verify the jets by reading the stampings. Many of these old carbs have had the jets drilled out for god knows why, making it necessary to verify the jet sizes using an appropriate method. Make sure the air/fuel p***ages are clear and the screws are in good shape (check the taper), double check your jet sizes, tighten up the throttle shafts (they're probable sloppy even though they "seem" tight), and deck every contact surface of each carb. Then, sync them all. Come to think of it, those carbs without idle screws are gonna be hard to sync... Good luck! Multi-carb setups are a challenge to setup properly, but work very well once there are!!
Thanks for the response. Just to clarify 1 carb is possible 48 3 are big logo 97 2 are small logo 97 Aren’t all 97 same internal?
Another one of the important things to do when rebuilding these is to pull the emulsion tubes out and clean them. This step is often overlooked and if not done will cause all kinds of grief. and yes the small logo and large logo 97's are supposed to be the same inside but...... 80 years is a real long time and there is no way of knowing how much parts swapping and modifying has been done in that amount of time. When I did the 4 carbs for my 40 it took me 7 carbs to make 4 good ones. do yourself a favor and get some more carbs you are going to need them when you start going thru em....
About the Hemi book mentioned here. I bought a copy online new for $10. Now the same book seller has them listed for as much $250. They were $29.95 originally. A good reference with a lot of information. I almost gave it a fellow that bought a hemi motor from me. Thinking I could just get another cheaply. Wrong! If anyone sees one with a decent price better grab it.
You saying 31/32 is a measurement of bore size? I dint know that. I thought 31/32 was like a venturi size or jet. Or .97” in decimal. Being that .97” is a tiny bore.
31/32" (.970") would be one hellava big jet size for a carb! That's like hooking a garden hose up and pouring the gas in.
The dimensions cast on the carb are for the venturi diameter, the 48 was used in ‘34 through ‘36, (or was it ‘35?) and flowed a touch more with its 1 1/32” venturi.
The Jalopy Journal
