Quite a few on here. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=ndh+5305&_sacat=0
Your best bet is to buy a name brand bearing (SKF, Timken, etc.) My experience is there is not any guarantee that any bearing, especially a small metric ball bearing is going to be made stateside, even with a USA company like Timken. That said it's possible to buy a good German bearing made in Asia, a good Swedish bearing made in Asia, and good American bearing made south of the boarder. Oh and I'll take a new stock Asian bearing over some god knows how it was stored and handled NOS auction bearing any day.
You should be able to walk into any bearing house in the country and buy that one. Price depends on what quality of bearing you buy. The 2 RS means it has two rubber seals. 5305 would be no seals, 5305 RS would be one side with a seal. 5305-2RS, = 25x62x25.4
I don't have a problem with foreign made bearings as such, ya gotta take what you can get ...sometimes, but ... I don't want to play "spin the wheel", I want something made of decent materials and quality construction.
Where do you live ? walk into any bearing house or industrial supply place and ask for a made in USA bearing. or just as for a quality bearing ( skf, Timkin , ntn, fag, Schafer ) etc made in USA does not necessarily mean a better bearing made overseas or in Canada etc. name brand quality bearing is what your after @Mr48chev posted it’s a pretty common bearing and googling it brings up a bunch of Amazon and eBay listings, with those you can’t be 100% sure what your getting. Buying one locally if you can means you can source exactly what you are looking for.
Mentioned this before in another thread, 4 bearrings all skf 2 from China others Mexico and Brazil,all different dimensions both Chinese were loose od/id, Brazilian good id/ od over, the Mexican was pretty close, so I would not call skf a reputable supplier
I would be interested in these dimensional discrepancies, but more importantly where/who these bearings were procured from. Also, what specification bearings were purchased... There are piles of counterfeit bearings on the market. As several posters noted, you have to buy from reputable vendors, they have the support of the bearing OEMs to address and resolve these issues.
I guess I'm in the opposing camp. I have bought a ton of NIB NOS pieces over the internet and from sales/auctions for many years. Used to do nut and bolt restorations of muscle cars. On the internet...Ebay in particular, I buy from a seller with a 100% rating that accepts returns. I ask for any additional pics I need and ask any and all pertinent questions I have, including verification of the seller's return policy. If a seller doesn't have that 100% rating or balks at any of those questions....it's time to look elsewhere. Never had a problem, never been burned. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a NOS, NIB, still wrapped, made in the USA, Delco bearing from the right EBAY seller. But that's just my opinion and based on my experience. I buy all of my hardware (nuts/bolts) for my A from the aircraft industry.....almost all of it NOS.
I'm not here to turn this into a 10 page argument, but there are some considerations about using an NOS bearing in this application.. 1) it's a blower, which implies some speed and some fitment critically 2) the OP noted it's a 2RS suffix bearing and as @Mr48chev pointed out, that means it's sealed 2a) since it's sealed, it's all but impossible to inspect (if NOS) 2b) since it's sealed, that means there is almost no way to properly lubricate the bearing once assembled 3) New Departure Hyatt got out of the bearing business about 30 years ago The grease that would have been packed in the NDH Delco eBay bearing is at least 30 years old.
Yeah, that's my fault, I didn't catch that his third post showed the enclosed version. I've re-packed a lot of sealed bearings by prying the covers off with an X-Acto blade or dental pick....but that's neither here nor there. As I said in my post, I gave my opinion. I'm assuming you gave yours. Not sure where a 10 page argument would come into play....but again, that's just my opinion.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253371789198 Found these would work cause it would get oil from the front cover for the front the rear ones are not as wide
This may start another argument, but new sealed bearings don’t seem to have enough grease in them for my liking! A different app but I was having early bearing failure on spindles, when I checked them, zero grease. So I inspected a new bearing, there was very little grease! I’m talking no more than a finger nailfull on a 3/4 x2 inch bearing! Every one of my failures were bone dry!Dusty, rusty, pitted. So I started prying one seal off one side and adding ten times as much of a very good grade of grease and totally eliminated my bearing failure problem. These bearings were turning roughly 4000 rpm constantly with medium load. My point is don’t depend on that sealed bearing being adequately greased! Always check it. Most rubber bearing seals come out real easy with out damage, if you are careful. Bones
I've come to learn that just like America, there are different levels of quality from overseas. I went to Ocala Florida for my fire pump technician certification. And the pump factory has all of their pump housings cast overseas. I asked why and was quickly told that they have tried multiple times to have them cast here and always have failures. They've never had a failure with the foundry they use.
Thoses bearings I dealt with were just so easy to pop the seal, that is why I did it that way. Hey, what ever it takes to get the lube in the area it needs to be! Bones
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