Alright... I've been reading and reading, and even managed to learn a thing or two around here, but I thought to get something in one thread. Being green and new to automotive stuff, I don't know the "who's who" for parts yet, so all I can do is ask. If you were building a Mopar Flatty for daily use, but NOT a tire burner, what are the common parts to go aftermarket with, and where are those aftermarket places? ... Like for bikes, I like to use S&S flywheels and rods... ... and James' Blue Teflon gaskets for Shovelheads... S&S makes a good oil pump, too... ... Wiseco pistons... ... but I still prefer to make my own guides to fit.... Things like that, but for Mopar Flatties. Rockabillyb***man recommended an "ARP stud kit". (being green, I have no idea who ARP is, but will find out) The things that you might want to do out of hand and automatically, because it's good practice to do them, a real step up in quality and reliability. I'd like to know what you did, but I wanna also know *WHY*. I wanna know you're reasoning for the things you did. I see a lot of talk about using Chevy 1.600" valves in Ford Flatties. Is there a desireable modification done to Mopars? Is it as simple as making a new valve guide, reaming the block to accept a larger stem, or sleeving it for a smaller one? Don't worry. I'm not looking for an easy way out. I'm still reading and researching. But I would like to hear the "why"s and "what for"s of what you did. Thanks, Weyland
If you are talking the 6 banger, these are nice little motors and will run forever on a standard rebuild which is what I did with mine, a 50 Ply Custom 4dr. I did rings, valves, rods and mains for about $500 total and it runs like a clock. You can split the manifold if you want to run dual carbs and put dual exhaust on it real easy. It don't seem necessary to go through a lot of custom work on this motor unless you are really going for some heavy mods. Mine cruises at 65-70 all day long. 31acoupe
Kewl. Thanks. That's nice to know. But... Did you use all stock/OEM parts, or did you use aftermarket? If aftermarket, do you have recommendations? Would you have done anything differently? Did you do what you did based on money concerns, or is it really all that is needed with these things? I ask, because I see a WHOLE lot of "FLATTIES COST HUGE DOLLARS~!" types of posts, but they all seem to be geared toward the strip and not the street. Referencing one of my other posts - I'm not looking for a racer, a tire burner, or anyting like that. I'm thinking of building a truck that will be used as a daily driver and shop truck and I'd like it to be reliable (seems to have been addressed), able to haul things from time to time, able to sustain highway speeds (70-75)(is 80 a possibility?), handle an adapted A/C system, and give me *reasonable* gas mileage. ... and I'd like the world on a platter, with a side of money, please... I guess what I'm asking is this - Are there tyypical "while you're in there" simple mods that most people do because they make sense and cost about the same as the stock parts, or do these things really just run along like a watch? (which is the general impression I'm getting....) Best, Weyland
You can get all the flat head 6 stuff from Kanters in Jersey. You can also try Napa if ya got one of them in yer area so you don't have to pay for the shipping www.kanters.com Try that site. I would just rebuild to stock so ya don't mess with anything. If ya bore it out and hot rod it too much then, you have to worry about the ****** and the rear end too. My '53 Plymouth Wagon is all stock and runs great doing around 65 max on the frwy here in Los Angeles and everybody drives friggin 90 it seems now. I cruise and let them p*** me up and once in awhile I get to see the red lights flash'in and I know it ain't me!!!!!!!!!!!!! KNUX!
Have a look here for everything I"ve done with my 230: http://www.50plymouth.com There's a suppliers page for the stuff I bought, sound clips, lots of pics, etc. I've got about 6500 miles on it since it's rebuild, only a couple of little issues like a bad new fuel pump. Other than that, it's a great little engine that should outlast me. I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got too. Pete
LOL. Y'know... I'd have never thought of that, actually... Thank you. Tried that, but keeps asking me for a p***word and username. This is what I think I'm leaning towards, actually, based very much from what I've been gleaning from this site. I think I might build it as a 230, though, just for GP. Good to know. Thanks~! Best, Weyland
Actually, I've been studying your site since having it recommended to me last night. Very nice job you've done. Great to hear. Would you do anything different if you had to do it again? I appreciate that, Pete, and will *DEFINITELY* take you up on that. I've gotta say - Wow. That's simply a beuatiful mill you've built there, Pete. Really, really nice. Thanks, and Best, Weyland
Weyland- Just sent you a PM. I think if I were to start over, I think the only thing I'd do differently for this car is cross drill the crank just for some ***urance that all the rods are getting the oil they need at higher rpms. And maybe a bit more radical grind on the cam. The Edmunds dual intake with the holley/webber carbs is great. Langdon was right that the carbs would be just right on this engine. Everyone else told me that they would be too much for the 230, but I don't think so, and it gets 19mpg to boot. The water heated intake heats up in less than a minute, I don't have the chokes functioning at all, and it starts right up even at sub-zero temps and runs smooth by the time I get it backed out of the garage. If I were to build the ultimate flatty, I'd start with a long block. But that would involve frame mods to the '50, and I didn't want to bother with that for this car. I wanted to do a bolt-together deal for ease and lack of time to do any serious mods. I've had lots of fun building this engine. Before everyone thought it was a boat anchor, it looked like a rusty old furnace. Now they all wonder where I found it, they've never seen one like it before. Go figure! Pete Before: After:
Stock rebuilds really are all you should need. The cross-drilled crank is a new one to me, I hadn't heard about that problem with the oiling before. My engine is stock (6V and all), it's a P23 (1951 218) that has 63000+ original miles. Besides a little exhaust leak at the header pipe, the thing is quiet and starts up every time with no problems. The correct address for Kanter is www.kanter.com.
They are reliable little engines. I have put over 11,000 miles on mine in a little over a year with a round trip to and from Vegas from Charlotte. Blueskies has so much info to share. I must say you have picked the right place. ******Knuckles
The Jalopy Journal
