Technical Eagle or SCAT for a balanced stroker assembly?

You might take a look at Ohio Crankshaft. Decent prices for complete rotating ***emblies and several to choose from for a 383. I have used their rods with good results in a race engine. They are offshore forgings and castings, but like **** and Eagle, finished in the US. Otherwise, I prefer **** over Eagle by word of my engine machinist.

 

I would RUN from a "builder" that cannot find a problem like that. He is obviously not checking things like clearances...

 

When I said "Cheapest is not always Bestus", I probably should have said "Cheapest is not always Cheapest". By that I mean a builder has to look at the overall effect of selecting a certain component while trying to spend a reasonable amount of money. Lots of speculation about which is best...Eagle or ****. Honestly they both provide a pretty decent product for the money and there are kazillions of them out there working well. The law of averages says that both have had a small percentage of defective ones sold. The material that they use is superior to the cast cranks in most OEMs and should be just fine.
Lets talk about rod selection though. There are lots to choose from and I'm going to post an article that I think gives excellent insight into "Cheapest is not always Cheapest". The thing is that as has been mentioned previously......its often not financially better to recondition rods since aftermarket replacements can be had cheaply. With Chevy thats pretty true.....but not so true with other engines. Just bought some for a Cad and paid $550.
Something to consider when buying rods (& pistons) is weight. While a lighter piston and rod may cost more initially, it may end up being cheaper because you don't have to add any mallory metal to get it balanced. The forged pistons I bought were just slightly higher than cast or eutechtic ones. Between the piston/pin/rod, the ***embly will be 130 grams lighter. 8 ***emblies will be 1040 grams lighter. I wondered just how much that actually was, so I weighed a few things to demonstrate how much it was. So here are some pictures to let you see how much weight I saved.


Now a smallblock Chevy will be less than this because a 500 Cad has big pistons and longer rods.
Another factor is the rod bolt used which is a major consideration. One reason is strength, but the other is whether the head of the bolt will clear the block and the cam. Make the wrong choice and you have to modify the bolts and/or clearance the block ($$$). So it may be cheaper and better to get an H beam that has no bolt head issue. Anyway, here is the article on connecting rods. Read this and help make an informed decision. Then subscribe to Hot Rod Magazine to show your appreciation.







If you take the time to study this information, it should help to make the best choices.........

 

Stuff bought through ebay sometimes has a questionable history. An item could have been salvaged from the s**** bin, been previously damaged or had some other misadventure. This is referring to an ebay seller other than the official ebay store of the vendor (**** in this instance).

Years ago I read an article comparing Eagle and **** crankshafts. It said that both used castings from China, but only **** did finish machining at its own facility in the US.
The article also said that the Eagle crankshaft required several slugs of Mallory metal to balance it, which made it more expensive than the **** piece.

 

As far as I know, no OEM cranks ever use Mallory metal and an extra machining operation to achieve some semblence of balance. With an aftermarket crankshaft, the wrong choice of pistons and rods could cause the need for Mallory metal. Sometimes there isn't room for the manufacturer to add more metal to the counterweights because the engine block or its interior components are in the way. Thats why its important to have some idea how much weight the crankshaft can accept before you have to add Mallory. Better to buy lighter components than to add Mallory later.

 

I hope the Eagle cast crank is ok! I recently ordered a stroker kit from Butler Performance for my 421 "Tin Indian"

Eagle crank, Eagle "H" beam rods. Ross Pistons. Butler will also balance the ***embly before shipping. I didn't want to mess around so I got the neutral balancer & flex plate, bolt kit, etc from them as well.

God Bless & Merry Christmas
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I’ve got a message in with Skip White about his kit, like above it comes balanced, they do it in house. I’m seeing what they can do to back off my CR some.

 

Friends using Skip White rotating ***'ys have been STOKED after using products from the 'usual suspects'.
My next SBC will be via Skip White.

 

Greg Miller @ Butler actually talked my down on mine from 10.5 to 9.8 or so. I have more of a Chevy mentality & he suspected that. He explained the Pontiacs can't take the higher CR on pump gas like the Chevys can!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I’m trying to stay in the 9 to 9.2 range and just surfacing the block for trueness. With fuel
Cost she’ll be able to run regular gas this way.