Hi Guys, I am looking for a rebuilt clutch for my 1/2 ton 1950 chevy truck. This is the 9-1/8" clutch. I purchased a new clutch kit from NAPA but it was 1/2" shorter than my original. This caused interference problems with the fork and the column shift rods when shifting from 1st gear into neutral. I am in the Santa Clara area and have not been able to locate a clutch shop that can rebuild them. I know I can get them from some of the truck part vendors but I was hoping to find one local or at least in California. Can anyone direct me to a shop that can rebuild it or sells rebuilt clutches? Thanks, Skipper
A smaller Diameter clutch should have nothing to do with your shift linkage. Me thinks you did not get the fork back in the correct position on the release bearing and fork pivot. People have been putting smaller/larger clutches in cars for years with no issues. Providing you have proper release bearing for the clutch and vehicle. 2nd bad clutch from NAPA.. Hmmm I would take it all back to them.
Clutch Pack - New NCF 1104123 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com) This should have been your clutch set for your truck providing it still ALL STOCK. sez 9 1/8 diameter. anything else it was packaged wrong.
Junkyard is correct..the disc has nothing to do with the shifting linkage. The problem is elsewhere. Have someone push the clutch in while the inspection cover is off and see what the throwout bearing is doing. Then work your way backwards from there.
Perhaps I did not describe the issue correctly. Measuring the end of the TB to the the face of the clutch, the new clutch was shorter in height by 1/2". This moved the TB 1/2" closer to the flywheel, and the fork then pivoted further back. The end of the fork where the threaded adjustment lever is attached is now more that 1/2" closer to shifting rods. I think the fork should probably be pretty close to being parallel to the flywheel. The fork is now positioned pivoted back. If I had a floor shifter this would probably not be an issue. Perhaps on the 1950 sedans it is not a problem, I am not sure if a car and truck share the same shifting linkage and column. I would think my column is more upright than on the cars. My guess is that If I put an adjustable pivot ball I have make up the space but I think I would rather just get the correct clutch.
Modesto Clutch and Brake was were we used to go, I haven’t been there in several years though. Heck, not even sure if they are still around Fort Wayne clutt has a good reputation on the Ford Barn for the Early V8 crowd, but then you’re dealing with shipping. But, I think I’d take the old and new clutch into NAPA and have them figure it out
Bayshore friction materials on Old Bayshore Road San Jose Sent from my SM-J737T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am just going to throw this out and see if it sticks: Are you certain you didn’t flip the disc around accidentally? Springs toward the crankshaft flange. Maybe not...
Did the set come with the TO bearing? With diaphragm clutches, there are two different heights of TO bearings. Sounds like you might just need the longer one, even though your set came with one.
B&A is now owned by Fleet Pride and they do mainly brakes and the guy did not know if they had any old inventory with my clutch. The TOB is the longer 1-7/8" bearing. The shorter bearing would make my problem worse. The disc was placed with the correct side to the flywheel. The clutch set was sourced from NAPA. It is a LUK clutch, is looks like a deferent design that original. Now, it did work, it went into 2nd and third without problems. It problem was going from 1st to neutral or Reverse to neutral. The interference would not let me to move the shift lever into neutral.
So is seems like when your car is stationary, moving the shifter in the non-syncro gears, it is difficult. 2nd and 3rd are syncro'd, so you could actually shift into those gears even without a clutch. The fingers on the replacement seem much different than the original, which is what would be normal. Is the outside diameter of the TO bearing race much larger than the original TO?
Stick your camera down by the shift linkage & clutch fork and take 3 or 4 shots, then post. Sounds like some parts are in the wrong location or incorrectly installed. P***. car and truck shift linkage is different. Truck 2nd & high uses a relay pivot which is attached to the bellhousing.
Ky Clutch call about noon EST and ask for Dave. Former owner and helps out at lunch time. Family business nice people. Dave knows everything about clutches................ They also ship all over the country.
Sorry, I should have mentioned the engine. It is a 235 but I am using the original 216 bell housing and fly wheel that uses the smaller 9-1/8" diameter clutch. I am pretty sure that I have the linkage hooked up correctly but here is a picture. I would think that in the bay area or the east bay there would still be a clutch rebuilder. In my case, I think my clutch springs are worn or need adjustment? The disk did not seem too worn but disengaging the clutch, the gear would grind going in all the gears.
I’ve worked with Chevrolet and GMC 6’s for over 45 years and the stock forged forks and retainer clips. There are different thicknesses of pressure plates like we can see in your photo. Some of the fingers also have additional humps out at the end. Like your new one shows. That style can use the flat TO bearing which is larger in diameter than the one you would normally use with the old one shown.Which Throwout bearing are you using. You can see 1/2” in the photo of some of my spares which are the rounded ones for smaller diameter hole in the forks but you get the idea .
I am using the tall 1-7/8" TOB on the left of your picture. The new TOB and the old TOB appear to be identical in dimensions. From my last picture you can see the interference of the fork and shift linkage.
From the photo of the 2 pressure plates the fingers look pretty close to the same height off the surface. When you install the unit with the disc on the flywheel the fingers come out farther. Is the shift linkage showing the correct one for 1st-Reverse? Is it in neutral now? It looks like when you depress the clutch pedal it his the brake rod too.
The two clutches are pretty close to the same height. When you mount them to the fly wheel, the new clutch with the raised fingers, those fingers will collapse down and you lose 1/2" in height. Yes, the linkage is correct, the rod near the fork is the reverse/first. In that picture the two are interfering. I did not interfere with the brake rod although I did not try to press on the brakes at the time so I will have to verify. That may also be an issue as I upgrade to a dual master cylinder. My old clutch was not disengaging the disc. I there a way to adjust the clutch springs or to check the correct pressure plate release travel? How much TOB travel is required to lift the pressure plate to the required height? Is there any charts for this?
I check clearance by laying under the car while someone depresses the pedal. You can watch everything by looking at it with the bottom cover off. You should be able “rattle” the fork at rest, that shows enough clearance for the TO to the fingers of the pressure plate. That also should mean about 1/2” on the pedal in the car. On that era setup the ball screwed into the bellhousing is round and you need the clip in the fork to hold it on. With the pedal fully depressed you should be able to insert .050” feeler between the disc and plate or disc and flywheel. Some say more.... some say less.
Because the new friction disc is thicker , when bolted down , the pressure plate fingers will be closer to the flywheel . Something appears amiss with the clutch release arm geometry ...
I am going to have to say that your problem is with the routing of the shift linkage and not the clutch linkage. The clutch fork is hitting the shift linkage because you have something out of kilter with the linkage. Looking at a photo of a stock ch***is I snagged off the net you have your shifter arms on wrong. you have the wrong ones goi8ng up and down and at the wrong angles. Also pay close attention to how they have the arms mounted on the trans, one faces in and one faces out. That snagged from this link that has more photos of the ch***is but not great photos . 1948 1949 1950 1951 1052 1953 Chevy 3100 pickup running rolling ch***is engine - Cl***ic Chevrolet Other Pickups 1951 for sale (smcl***iccars.com)
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