I’m going to paint the aluminum heads on my sbc black while they are on the car, preferably with a brush. Off the car I would use VHT case paint in a rattle can. If they were cast iron I would use good old Rustoleum but since they are aluminum I’m not sure what will take the heat and not peel off. Any suggestions? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Never used it but Bill Hirsch engine paint works well as a brush on per reports I've read. Regarding aluminum heads this is from his web site: ON THE BLOCK OR CYLINDER HEAD IF THEY ARE CAST IRON OR CAST ALUMINUM. BILL HIRSCH ENGINE ENAMELS WILL ADHERE BETTER THAN ANY OTHER PAINT SOLD AS ENGINE ENAMEL. HOWEVER, ON STEEL PARTS, SUCH AS OVERHEAD VALVE COVERS, SIDE VALVE COVERS AND ANY OTHER STEEL OR ALUMINUM PARTS, IT IS BEST TO USE A PRIMER ON THEM BEFORE APPLYING BILL HIRSCH ENGINE ENAMEL. https://www.hirschauto.com
Thanks. I couldn’t remember that name. It sounds like it might do the trick. I’m a little leery of painting the heads ‘cause if it doesn’t stick it’s gonna be a mess. I’m working on a car that’s all finished, shiny paint and all, so I’m trying not to damage anything else in the process. I also need tips on how to remove pinstripes safely. They were just laid out on the existing paint, no clear overcoat. I’m guessing One Shot. Base paint is acrylic enamel. Nice job but just not my style or color. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Good ideas.... I've got the pads & clamps, the foil should save some time, thanks. I'm trying to take an '80s resto-rod back to the early/mid-60s (mostly). Think; coupe version of Dean Lowe's RPU. It's got a 430 hp 383 crate motor with all of the usual stuff; MSD, yellow plug wires, Endurashine Edelbrock intake, Demon carb. Hard to make that look old. I'm cleaning up a set of Edelbrock finned rocker covers to replace the generic chrome ones. I have an NOS flat top Mallory and a C26 2x4 setup with matching AFBs. Anyone have a set of old Hedman headers they want to part with? Or maybe I just need to get the hood painted and put it back on! The car and the ch***is will look ok with just a wheel and tire change and a little height adjustment. I know, I know, pictures or it didn't happen. Give me a minute to change it into something more comfortable....
I also purchased the Bill Hirsch engine paint, as well as his exhaust manifold paint. I want to paint the engine (in ch***is) on my 64 GP as well as my OT 67 Toro. The main reason I bought his is because it can be brushed or spayed. I will load my touch up gun for the top, front & sides that show & will brush the bottom areas of the block. Another note from his TDS for the exhaust manifold paint is it works best with the manifolds removed & sandblasted 1st....If not, wire brush the **** out of them! God Bless & Merry Christmas Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
The trick to getting paint to stick to aluminum is getting it clean and laying a good foundation. I use Zinc Chromate primer then whatever type of enamel I like over it. If you get it clean then use the zinc your Rustoleum should stick fine. Well except for around the exhaust ports. BTW I cannot say about today but if you look you may find VHT in a can that you can brush on. I know you used to be able to get it that way as well as the aerosol.
98racer; Yep, I bought the coupe. After inspecting the ch***is and taking it for a long test drive it just seems like a nice car for the money. It’s in the WayBack machine as we speak..... Easyoff? Really? It won’t hurt the base paint? Wow. I’ll do a little test somewhere. Sure beats sanding with 1500 grit or rubbing compound. I checked a couple of local places and I couldn’t find zinc chromate primer, can or spray. Our local auto paint store was closed by the time I got there but I doubt they will have it. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've been using just plain ol' oil-base black enamel (brushed on) on my motorcycle cylinders and heads for years, both cast-iron and aluminum. Most durable paint I've used for that by far, and I tried more than a few. Easy to touch up too. Two briskly-applied thinner coats is better than one thick one, and you do want to do a 'cure' process before just running off down the road. I'll let the first coat 'tack' then apply the second. For curing, I'll run the motor until I get a good paint smell, then shut it off and let it cool. Repeat until the smell reduces, you should be good to go. Usually takes 4-5 cycles, may be a bit longer on a car engine. One advantage to brushing oil base is if there's any minor dirt/oil left, it will blend into the paint and the oil will bake out during the cure.
^^^^ That's what I've always done with cast iron engines. Clean everything well and brush on good old Rustoleum gloss black just like you suggested. No primer. It has always been durable and holds its gloss well everywhere except on the exhaust ports of Olds and Pontiac engines. My new coupe has machined aluminum surfaces on the heads (Blue Print Engines crate engine). I'm asking because I've never used it on machined aluminum and it would be a ***** if it started to peel off.
Go to an aircraft supply house. They will have the zinc chromate primer. It's used to inhibit corrosion in airframes.
I live out in the boonies, I'll have to do some research to see if there is an aircraft supply anywhere nearby. Thanks.
Hell, I used plain ol VHT engine paint on all of the aluminum (intake manifold, front distributor housing pieces, thermostat housing) castings on my "Buick", Chevy V-6. You remember, Buick blue. Never chipped or pealed. Just clean well before painting Mike
I used Porter Straight Brush Enamel , 28 years ago . It’s not as shined as it was but all stuck well as the day it was applied .
An old painter's trick p***ed on to me by a Sign Painter friend is to use vinegar to clean the aluminum before applying paint. (Vinegar is a dilute solution of Acetic Acid.) This etches the metal slightly giving the paint a little more surface area to hold onto with sliding off. White Vinegar is used for after surgery cleaning as well, so any thoughts of it harming other parts is limited. Also, 'Cleaning Vinegar' is available from some sources. I saw a gallon for sale at my local 'Bent & Dent'. My suggestion is to use 'White Vinegar'. Add this to an etching primer such as used by Aerospace vendors and it would be damn near bulletproof. Note: I am adding this as an afterthought: https://fngprecision.com/defense-mil-spec-coating/
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