Patience and the willingness to pay attention to details! Route your lines neatly and out of the way of things like the exhaust system, drivetrain, and road debris. Make sure the lines are securely clamped down so that they can not wiggle from vibration and shock and be sure there are no kinks in your bends. If you're using a drum/drum master cylinder, odds are that it will have resdiual valving built into it, so you shouldn't need to install any inline. Make sure your connections are tight and secure, and that your brakes are adjusted correctly on all four wheels and follow the recommendations included with your master cylinder as to bench bleeding and system bleeding. Once the master is bled and installed, monitor the fluid level and crack open all of your bleeder screws, allowing fluid to run through the lines and come out. Make sure the master never "goes dry" during this phase and let it "gravity bleed" for a bit to get fresh fluid through your new lines everywhere. Then close all the bleeders and proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would, starting with the wheel furthest from the master (right rear) and working your way around the car to the closest wheel (left front). Check for leaks as you do this and repeat until you have a good, firm pedal feel. Check every connection once more for leaks and if nothing is dripping, you should be good to go! Maybe tweak your adjustments again one time to be certain, and then you're ready for a test drive!
After reading the little Model A flipping routine yesterday, I've decided to shoe-horn a dual master on my old Buick . . . getting one from '81 Ford Granada, since it has dual exit ports on the p***enger side. I've got drums all the way around, but my car is fairly light and all brake stuff will be new . . . my tune might change the first time I'm in a panic stop on I70 at 65 mph+. If you google brake systems you can find out a lot of info, and don't be afraid to hit the tech archives here . . . lots of great info.
How about brake pedal leverage? I bought the speedway pedal/master frame mount ***embly, can I bend the pedal arm to gain more room for the go pedal and steering column?
What is a low cost small master cylinder that fits under a floor for drum/drum use? Want to buy a new one and make it work, but don't know what I should be looking for and all we have in town are dumb *** parts counter people who can't find a part without make model and year. Geno
I have the same pedal/MC unit from Speedway. My problem is that I have a channeled body over the frame and the steering issue too. My frame is boxed so how will I mount the pedal bracket bolt(the long bolt that holds pedal to bracket) to the frame?
I welded my bracket to the frame, and my k-member was close enough to the pedal that i made an adjustable bracket that bolts to the k-member and presses against the pedal. It was easier than pullin' the motor and slush box to gain clearance to drill a big *** hole.
Go to NAPA online, look at any car (for example--66 Ford pickup) see what size bore Ford used for front and rear wheels and master cylinders. Do I really need to continue this explanation?
The Jalopy Journal
