Projects 1934 Ford Tudor - Bonnie

REAR AXLE: removed the axle today to install the juiceys and tidy a few things up that need attention. Will remove and replace transmission while it’s out and install the 39 transmission that I mentioned previously in a post.

Removed the mechanical cross shaft assembly 4 x 5/16 UNF bolts and 4 rivets in case any one wants to know. Tons of room in there now with all that removed.

Installed the Early V8 Garage front hose mounting plates between the front shock absorbers and frame. Fitted good and clean look

 

How is the certification going? Just asking for a friend

 

MASTER CYLINDER MOUNT: Pulled the transmission and cleaned up the frame, removed old linkages for hand brake and brake pedal and test fitted the master cylinder bracket from EFV8 Garage fits well and looks stout. Put the 39 transmission in place, coming together slowly.

 

FRONT BRAKE LINES: I really like the EV8 Garage kit it has all good hardware required to complete the install. If I had of been stateside I would have bought their brake line kit also. But I am not so I made some up today before the front end goes back in.




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I have to do the same thing although I’m already plumbed, just switching to a dual reservoir.

 

Is that a Drum Drum Master cylinder? @33Doll

 

Yes.

 

Mustang?

 

F-100-E-100 Truck/Van....68-74ish
With Manual/Drum brakes....
Give or take depending on all the different sources You look up. It was a freebie from Pops. probably should just buy a new 67’ mustang one, but they all seem more or less alike, as long as you can establish it is a 4 drum setup, not a disc combo. I figure if it doesn’t work I can always get the mustang version because the mounting is the same, I have to modify the bracket that the 39-48 one is on anyway.
It’s more or less for mock up right now because I want to blow the frame apart and clean up painted, and go through the rear end and stuff, after I get the brakes, and E-Brake all set up. And the rear suspension finished welding.

 

REAR AXLE: like most jobs this one was supposed to be simple but here we are. Was going to repair left hand axle thread and that’s it bolt brakes on lick of paint and back in. So the bearings are well worn and likely original as still had every split pin and tie wire in place. The axle tapers are real nice and the OG hubs were very tight to get off. So bearings and gasket set to order next week.




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I am impressed with your shop.Must be nice to work under those conditions. Are you planning on putting another gear set instead of the 4.11 which I imagine you have.

 

@Deuce Lover I would like a 3:54 for it, I have one in my Roadster and its great on the highway and accelerates well at highway speed for passing etc. Will see what the costs look like its expensive down here with Forex and freight to contend with.

 

Jeez! That shop looks like a Computer chip building Clean Room!
Damn! Nice!

 

Heres how I rebuilt my Equalizer.
Except I cut off the arms Im not using due to Hydraulic brakes

Hope this helps

 

Had to drill out the rivets!
And use bolts for replacing again will be easier!

 

@33Doll Thanks for that. Good idea. Did you notice our RHD equalisers are different double shafts and four rear rods ? They also have an additional four rivets to the frame as well as the four bolts. Did you weld any of the pivots? We are not able to get a certification if any brake levers are cut and rewelded here.


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AXLE REPAIR: Committed to replacing the OG Ford bearings at minimum to get this axle back together so pulled the bearings the crown wheel marked 8 34 which I take it is a manufactured date code as the ring and pinion set is 9/37 or 4:11 Removed the axles and checked out the spider gears they are 12 tooth which went against another idea I had which was to modify and install F1 axles from a Dana44 I have stripped out. Seems they need different side gears though. Need to do some more research on the F1 axle modification if it’s as simple as replacing the 12 tooth gears that might fly and be a good upgrade.

***I now know the spider gears are interchangeable with their own spider cross. ***




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Wow! It is different! Overkill Below the equator!
I thought California was strict!
Good Luck Mate!

 

4 rear brake rods were required in France and Germany. The rules were so that the E brake has a dedicated set on its own.

 

REAR AXLE: Got the pinion stripped out for bearing replacement, no press required just a puller and some washers and spacers and it moved out of its housing. Pilot bearing punched out with a hammer and driver plate
]

 

Suggestion: If your double cone race is good re-use it as well as the bearings.Original NOS double cone race is expensive if you can find one.Replacements I know of are offshore made.Bearings(NOS) are out there and reasonable.

 

@DeuceLover Thanks!


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BANJO SLIDE IN AXLE CONVERSION : So after a bit more research and looking at the likely best scenario outcome, ( I have no doubt it was done back in the day) but the Dana 44 F1 side gears could work but it’s really not nice and not what I want for this car. To remove the choppiness of the gear mesh you do need to take quite a bit off the OD and then remove the tips of the 11 tooth spiders to smooth it out. What is of most concern is how little tooth contact remains.

So it’s getting a Hot Rod Works axle conversion kit. I have a complete one in my 30 Roadster and fitted another complete axle in a 35 Coupe and both have in excess of 16,000 miles on them and have been faultless and have both endured through various portions of pain.

So the axle housings are at the machine shop being machined to suit the HRW bearing retainers and the 3:54 ring gear and carrier housing getting machined for the HRW side gears.

Then home for assembly. Stay tuned.




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SPEEDO TURTLE: Gap filler job that has to be done, so today I had a spare minute and changed the Speedo Turtle gear. The 4:11 housing sits quite high with the larger diameter 21 tooth gear. I think with the required 18 tooth gear it would be very high in the mesh. So I found a spare 3:78 housing which utilises the 19 tooth gear and swapped it out for a 3:54 ratio gear that’s 18 tooth. There is quite a difference in the diameter of the machined portion of the turtle housing where it mates to the torque tube to lift or lower the driven gear into mesh with the driver. I have had success prior with an 18 tooth in a 19 housing for my 3:54 diff in my roadster. Thought I would post some pics in case anyone is looking to do the same on their car, parts from eBay Century Hot Rod.



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SHIT WORK SUNDAY: You can’t ignore the little things that have to be done so you just got to do them.

It never ceases to amaze me just how good the condition of most parts are with a clean up and lick of paint.

Good to go now for another 86 years.


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REAR AXLE PROGRESS: coming together slowly.


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REAR AXLE 9 INCH AXLE CONVERSION: Progress slowed while the machine work waited its turn at the machine shop, but I got a lot done on a friends car a rear axle upgrade, transmission rebuild and dual carbing and a wiring tidy up. But back onto Bonnie again now. Some pics of the machine work on the axle bells, I forgot to get photos of the side gears before fitting up but all looks good and turns very smooth compared to F1 type. The new crown wheel and pinion are 3:54 ratio so the axle upgrade will be a good highway runner, Coming together slowly.




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REAR AXLE 9 INCH AXLE CONVERSION: After a thorough clean of the bells of grease and machining swarf the assembly process could begin to get a nice rotating torque of the axles and then a 007 thousandths backlash on the pinion. I still need to check tooth contact of the ring and pinion.
The rag on the drill was great to clean the housings soaked in degreaser and then a clean one to dry. If you are doing this axle conversion bolting the assembly to a gearbox case gets a good work height. No good for stock axles.




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I thought of you as I cut these buggers’
Off! I did cringe a little bit! For your sake!
Sorry Mate!