Also 99% of them are posi, 3.55 to 4.10 gears and Quick Performance has anything you need for them cheap.
Just get a foxbody 8.8, then hit the boneyard for a couple short axles from an Aerostar van ( converts to 5 lug) We went high 9's in our ot coupe with that set-up.
The 11” F-150 drums fit the 8.8 to ez to used the E-brake by making the hole for the cable non-metric. Since stock 56 Ford had 11” rears I went with the F-150. 2 bolt patterns on the drum and axles 5-1/2 and 4-1/2. Added 4 piston front discs and I don’t need a power booster..
I have an 8in that supposedly from a 63 sprint and 15x7 rims with around 3.5 backspacing, and it rubs allot with body roll. I honestly figured I could probably get an 8.8 reworked and shortened and set up and get wider tires, but even then I wouldn't be using slicks. It's a street car that might see the strip once or twice in its life, but beyond that there's nothing that'll hook that hard. The different yoke shouldn't be too much of an issue, as I have a drive line shop relatively near me to handle anything. I think one of my u joints is going out as is, but that's not the topic of this thread. To my area, I'm in socal, and saying 9in in a sentence out loud will cost you 3.45 plus a 50¢ state breathing tax. The 8.8 are plentiful in the pick a part lots though, and is the reason why I was wondering about the comparisons (plus I think a 9in would be far too beefy for a 2 dr Falcon). The car is so small that I've kinda accepted that I'll have to get a shortened rear end. If I was to shorten a explorer rear with the 31 spline and lsd, is there any weak points to beef up before I put it in? I don't know about swapping around axles, but I don't think the car weighs enough to really break stuff like a Galaxy or something would, so stock style ones may suffice. I mainly just want to make sure that I don't have to worry if I want to beat on it a bit, and that I have some breathing room for insurance. Me planning on 400 to the wheel means I'm approaching the limit of a stock 8.2 block so I think that's where I want to stop... For now Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Explorer axle is 59-5/8" wide to begin with. After doing the "two short axles" one-side narrowing, it will be 56-1/2". That is still 1/2" over your stock width. That will not help with the rubbing. Wheels will help. There may be another short-side axle that is shorter than the stock Explorer short-side that could get it a little narrower. Off-roaders weld the tubes to the pumpkin with low Hydrogen rod with a stick welder. It is highly unlikely that you will need to do this.
I'll probably want to get it cut down more then, and I'll have to talk it out with the shop I contacted before. And even if I don't have to weld the tubes like that, I figure it's cheap insurance. I've heard also to get a c clip eliminator kit as well in case of an axle snapping. Is it worth it to put in while I'm there, or is it something for more stressed applications? Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When I put my last shubox together I wanted to use a 9" but a Maverick V/8, 8 inch jumped right in my lap. Was cheap from U-pull-it [$35 back in '91], came with the verticle and horizontal ribs and the 3.00 gears were just what I wanted for a cruiser. I built a nice 355 chevy with a 350 turbo for it and was impressed with the performance with short tires on 14" wheels. It'd get sideways easy . Was a blast but I always clenched a bit when I really got on it. Never broke.
I used a 31-spline 8,8 in my 50 Pontiac. It was very close to the original width and it came with 3.73 gears and disk brakes. Paid $125. I did have to relocate the spring perches. It was from an 01 Explorer. U-joints are available to convert to t400, t350, or the electric transmission yokes. I had three cutlass drive shafts all different lengths (a t350, t400, and 4 speed). To my surprise, the t400 was a perfect fit. but for my race car, 81 Malibu I opted for a Moser 9 inch with 35 spline axles, nodular center section, F150 drums and a locker. Never had an issue with either rear end, of course the 9 inch gets way more abuse than the 8.8. For a driver, I chose to save the money and get an 8.8. But I would rather go with an all new 9 inch for big power or a nicer build. I have no experience with the 8 inch.
Well, by the time you need to change an axle or seal or bearing, probably not a bad time to change the diff lube either
If you use a disc brake rear end, you do not need a c-clip eliminator kit. The calipers literally do that. There is no way to eject an axle when you are running discs.
Well, by the time you need to change an axle or seal or bearing, probably not a bad time to change the diff lube either... Given the uneven quality of bearings these days, that may or may not be true....
I last ran an 8 inch Ford in the 60's in a 65 Comet convertible hot 289 4 speed. It broke about 6 or 7 chunks before I pulled it out and put a 9 inch in it. I was running stock eliminator with 7 inch cheater slicks. Cost me races every time. My present 65 Comet station wagon running SEGA super stock with a 334 small block 4 speed with a6.00 gear. I got a housing from a 57 Ford station wagon and I had to remove the complete inside fender well to get a 29x7 inch slick on a stock 7 inch Ford station wagon steel wheel. That's with a 11x2 1/2 brake drums. I have twisted a set of 31 spline Yukon axles and I am in the process of changing my spool and adding 33 spline axles for this season. I am using a Strange S series chunk with a Daytona pinion support. My choice for a street car would be a 8.8 rear even if you have to narrow one to fit. It is stronger than a stock 9 inch . Anybody who tells you they ran an 8 inch and never had any issues never had enough power to hurt one or couldn't get it to hook. I broke an 8 inch with a set of studded snow tires on my 65 Comet convertible just showing a guy how to do a sparky burnout. It blew the pinion right out of the top of the housing with the driveshaft still attached. Had to replace the chunk and the driveshaft and the rear brake line.
I've got one here that I gave up on due to the brakes. Read up on them, they basically stink. The problem is compounded because the housing ends are rotated so you have problems bleeding the brakes once you install something better. Also the axles have an odd offset and I never could get a definitive answer on what drum brakes would work after welding and re-drilling the backing plates. Alternatively you could replace the ends. I've got no idea what they're worth though.
I have one in the shop now, with intent to put drums on it. I hope to get an answer to this outstanding question once-and-for-all.
Basically a bare Maverick 8" is under my 39 coupe which should get the 3.00 gears behind the top loader 4sp OD behind a flat head. Did pick up a 8" double web from a 67 Fairlane GT - I was going to pass on to a restorer but maybe I should hang on to it. Also picked up two more Maverick's and I'm sure they are double web'd as well. Sadly I let a 8" posi go with my 2+2 Stang but that's what funded my 39 coupe purchase.....just wasn't thinking that far down the road. Hopefully it will be okay to Cali if I don't push it !
I'm with southcross on this one. Have an old 8 out of a early mustang I picked up and for about 30 seconds thought about putting into my 31 tudor but came to my senses. Sure an 8 will stand up behind a decent small block street car for awhile due to the fact most just spin their tires but start running a car that actually bites and all of a sudden that 8 will start having problems. I finally chased down a 9" to use. One real advantage I love about the 9" is the drop out center and banjo housing. With it I can mount brackets anywhere, tubes on top and sides of center banjo and use any rear suspension I care too. After market support is phenomenal too.
The big concern with putting a 9in into my Falcon is that it's allot more unsprung weight, takes up more power to turn, and any 9in is super expensive in my area new or used. I think I will end up going with an 8.8 due to how much more available they are as well as coming with disks, an lsd, and 3.55 gearing for $120. I will have to get it shortened, but I would have to do the same with a 9in. I don't think an 8 would be worth the investment and if I shorten the 8 in there now to fix the rubbing and get a bigger tire it would just tear itself apart, especially going up to a 347. Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very good info here. 8", got used in a lot of hot rods because ot was readily available in narrower widths from small cars. Trac-Lok / posi units are hard to find. If you dont try to hook up, and use a driver/ highway gear it will probably live for years. 8.8 is a great rear end, large aftermarket support for these and readily available posi units and low factory gears makes it a popular swap. 9" finding a posi unit or getting a center section set up at a reasonable cost has been the challenge lately. Most cores out there are very wide with 28 spline axles. 9" builds have gotten out of hand when going aftermarket, guys build them for 800 hp to go drive around with 400 and street tires.
That's what I want to avoid, I think any 9 in would be far too much for the Falcon, even with a 347 it wouldn't make enough to warrant something so heavy duty and expensive to find and make. Meanwhile the 8.8 should be just about as strong, lighter, and has aftermarket ranging from the fox bodies all the way to 2014 (I think) mustangs. Gearing and posi units are good from factory applications, but there's also allot of options aftermarket due to how widely they where used, and it's getting better by the day. I think the 9in will possibly always be the go to for max horsepower and strip use, but I think the 8.8 is only getting to be a better deal by the day. Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Smart decision. If I wasn't running a nostalgic super stock with the very strict rules of the Southeast Gassers. I would running an 8.8 in my Comet. They are lighter and take less power to turn. Other than the drop out carrier I don't see the big advantage anyway. In order to make a 9 inch Ford live it ends up being mostly aftermarket parts. The only OEM parts in my 9 inch is the housing and the brakes. The center section is all Strange engineering. Yukon axles , Moroso studs. Even the spring saddles were not strong enough to hold up and I am going to have to put a housing brace on it to keep it from bending. I am working on a big bore 347 and the 31 spline axles were not strong enough for my 334 so I will probably end up with 35 spline axles.
Just for conversation, Im running a 9" truck housing with non nodular center. Mid 70's Oldsmobile full size car axles, housing ends, bearings - respined to 31 Ford size. 4.11 gear, Ford Trak Lok with thin steel and friction pack to allow more friction discs (forgot who made them). Street /Strip 3500 lb, 3500 stall, Launched hard on slicks for a few years low 12 / high 11's, before the car went into hibernation and now rebuild phase. Staying in that car for the rebuild with no changes to the rear. Even though I have a few 9" axles around, my next build is a 350-400hp or so driver and will get an 8.8.
Do you think if someone made a 3rd member for an 8 in that it would work better? It seems that the 3rd member is the weak point, and that people make 31 spline axles for small bearing 9in that would fit an 8in. I'm going to college for engineering, and I think it might be a cool idea, and possibly work good for high hp light weight applications like motor cross possiblity? Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There's no doubt the 8" could be improved above it's current torque-handling capabilities. The problem is there's little chance of there being a big enough market for one. Right now, building a 8" is only marginally cheaper than a 9"; the major savings will be if you can keep your housing and brakes. Adding a new case will address some of it's problems but will starting chipping away at it's price advantage, plus still won't address it's major problem; it's just too small. Ford designed this as a compact, medium-strength rear axle and used as intended is very reliable. Ford made almost as many of these as they did 9"s, so their commonality along with their big-brothers same-style removable center section made them popular for swaps. But keep in mind these are also the smallest commonly-used swap axles or even found behind a V8 in a OEM application. They only have a 8" ring gear; their basic architecture is the limit, everything is smaller and all else being equal won't ever take the same power/abuse as a 9" without major upgrades above what a 9" would need at the same level. Big $$$, these parts aren't something you whomp up in a hobby shop. And as the price differential gets smaller, so would your market. Ford hasn't built either the 8" or 9" for well over 30 years, so the OEM repair market is mostly gone. The 9" dominates racing, so the aftermarket demand supports investment in tooling to produce all-new parts. The 8" was popular enough in the swap market that at some point the aftermarket may tool up for those parts for replacements as good OEM stuff disappears but until the availability of cheaper and/or stronger more recent axles dries up, I don't see that happening.
This will help you find the 8.8" you want https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml Check out these videos
I'm thinking the engineers at Ford designed drivetrain units with a 100% safety factor. The highest torque rated engine to use the 8" differential was the J code 302 rated @ 310 ft. lbs. Durability will depend on traction. Eight inch carrier will hold up well unless you are constantly pounding on it and hooking it up. I'm running a stout roller 306 with 8" 3.80 locker. No breaky yet. Pulled the slapper bars and aired up the tires to keep from breaking it. Joe
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