Projects My 57 is home

Wiz..... not sure whats throwing you off, but all my geometry is working well and no bind..... but what I did do is make a better pressure nut against the fork... did not like the 2 lock nuts pressing into the clutch forks divot.... this nut fits into the clutch fork perfectly and has more thread coverage and i believe will be stronger.I also took Marks suggestion and found a return spring and it all is cool(I think I mentioned that earlier)
I dunno.. if it fails.. we will fix it.Right now, the whole action of the Z-Bar works very well and the clutch catches about 1/4 travel of the pedal as pressure is applied.
Anyhow.... the grind continues..... wiring is 80% complete...... just need to finish the wiring the turn signals and the dome/courtesy lights....
Can't finish the wiring until I get my speedo cable and gear.. should be delivered today.... then I can button up the dash .Ordered an extra long one..... My tranny wants a reach around.
Hahahahaha
My top loader's speedo location is passenger side..... so.... length is needed.

 

I did get a small jump on the exhaust, ran down to the local boys and had them make me some start tubes..... The most critical part on the exhaust(on this car) is coming off the manifolds and getting out from the underside engine area... its ......T I G H T .I had a old start tube I used as a template.
So these worked out well...I can swivel them 360... then mark them up... and when I head to the muffler shop.... it will be easier. Not sure if i am going to run a an X-Pipe or just straight duals.But... I will run a real raspy glass pack....

 

Failed to mention, the exhaust will be a 2.50 through the car... nothing fancy. and just a reg. exhaust tubing.I had costs for a stainless system... just not in the budget...While i would love it, Standard exhaust is just fine for this car.

 

Now.... completely turning the table... remember the "other" 57 from Texas?.. the original car I started the thread about?.... well, I made a firm decision on its power plant.I was planing on doing another FE.... but...... the more I thought about it... I am going to use a Y-Block.
I recently bought 2 Y-Blocks..... one is a 292(pictured) and the other is supposed to be a 312.... but its still in the donor car and until i can pull the engine and examine the main caps and crank flange.... who knows....But I will mess with them and make a nice Y-Block.
But that B/W 57 will be Y-Block powered..... and possibly a 3 speed OD trans... or (shudder) a later model OD 5 speed.... who knows.... I change my mind daily.

Please IGNORE the Fram filter..... hahahahaha

 

I would be amiss if I did not call out a great guy and true Certified Ford Nut. @fordblueblood
Bill help me tremendously on much of my novice and dumb wiring questions.Bill is a 30 year Navy man,Vietnam vet,gulf war vet and and an all round great guy.
Bill..thank you for ALL your help.

 

Ahhhhh.....Whizz..... I now understand what you were asking(yes, confusion for me today is not uncommon)
I have no idea why the side mounted Z-Bar(engine side) did not line up... but conversations with others found a solution.My block is a 66 and Im pretty sure the FE outside configurations never changes... most can't tell if they are looking at a 332 or a 427.
Any how.... looking at the rod on the tire in you pic,.... mine was not straight.... has a dogleg ,,, and is needed to go around the block to reach the clutch fork.My rod had to be threaded , unlike yours..... Possibly my Clutch Fork is shorter(?).... I am not sure.But I did notice the the Double Jam nuts I made initially .... would have failed soon.... the edges were wearing just after using to test and adjust the whole set up.....I could not find that nut that you have shown.
Also I used a stock 57 Clutch Pedal rod(from the pedal to the top of the Z bar) where as you have a 59 threaded rod(much better option IMHO)

Anyhow.... Looking at the headers on your 427 are a work of genius.... So nice..I hope your working on this car.
Also..I LOVE the fact you have the PROPER tire and tire size on your 57.....Firestone champs 7.10 x 15..... I want a set for my car ..... but I need to get to the bodyshop soon.

 

Well. all I can say at this point is that the Pedal travel is like butter.... releases at a 1/4 to 1/2 on pedal travel... no friction whatsoever... but The real test will be when I get it fired.So I will wait until that point.
I don't think the C-Fork is a short unit.. as a matter a fact I know so..I picked it up at the engine builders place and we discussed this for a while.
I will wait and see.

 

Well,.. got tired of wiring,... just need to finish the turn signals and a few odds and ends....
I directed my attention to getting the shifter in order....

So, I was on the fence of using a Hurst Comp plus,.. great shifter but The idea was still lingering to use a Ford Factory Shifter.Nearly everyone told me to stick with the Hurst,.. but a few Old time Ford men swore you could make these units work with little effort.Of course. that intrigued me.
On this thread way Back, fellow Hamber mentioned that it was indeed possible @Crazy Steve
I believe @bobss396 did as well...... anyways.I contacted Steve and he laid out a very detailed plan how to make them work... with little effort on the wallet.(Steve is one helluva guy, tons of positive info and a real contribution here)

Got the old unit on the bench and applied a liberal amount of Fluid Film and got everything loose and moving.I ordered a Scott Drake shifter kit for a 4 speed thru Summit(cheap) and waited.
Cleaned all the grime and and everything was working well.... Got it all apart and was in luck. both shifter pinned the main pin on the cross shaft( that holds the levers in place) was in very good shape. no slop,
Where the slop was the 2 shims that were in the lever pack... were trashed... a brass one had a chunk out of it.
Measured the thickness of them combined and it was about 24 thou.
Went down to the local Machine shop and got a few different sizes... I ended up using one shim at 30 thou... Cleaned all parts, greased liberally with white lithium and Fluid film.... and it was back together.. super nice and tight.... not tight at it hard to shift..... just a nice feel.You could move the levers effortlessly with one finger but very little end to end play. Before it had end play like a rocking chair.
Good.... so far it has cost me $2 bucks.

On to the shifter Handle.
This is the man are of concern... these handles(or the whole shifter bodies well) were never ever maintained.. and they became super sloppy and terrible.
As I mentioned...I picked up a Scott Drake rebuild kit.. and and on the advise of Steve, I discarded the rubber bushings in favour of steel shims....I had a Hurst Pit Pack in stock and the Metal shims fit perfectly.I needed to turn the ends down about an 1/8....I also discarded the new should bolts.... The originals were in very good shape.... I don't trust Chinese products.I did use the new Trunnions and springs. The originals in my shifter were wrong.... they were for a 3 speed.(worn out and way to small)
I had to turn the shoulder bolts down 10 thou... to pass thru the Hurst shims.Another 10 bucks and 30 minutes later at the machine shop.... I was in business.
Assembled all, cleaned all the rods and trans tabs, using fresh washers and the Hurst Pit Pack Clips.... all went together easy.
The shifter and body works flawlessly... positive shifts..no slop and all very nice and tight.

I do have a complete Hurst Comp Plus shifter unit.... but it was a major pain getting all the components during these Covid times... and to my surprise... a lot of the parts i needed are now discontinued.But after 4-6 months I have a complete Hurst from top to bottom and if my efforts fail..I have a back up.

I am just pretty stubborn on trying to use as much Ford stuff as possible.

 

Oh yea. the total cost was around $65 bucks to get this going. hahahahah

 

Well guess what....... that did NOT work at all!
Worked well on the bench, but installed, the unit bound in between 3rd and 4th..... After installing and removing,dismantling about 5 times.... I nearly threw that F**king POS through a plate glass window.

So Scratch all that shit above.ugh.

I grabbed the Hurst Comp plus and all went swell in 40 minutes.
FML.


Well..been wiring as much as possible and about 90% done
I have signals left and the brake switch.
To be totally honest and Frank.... This Covid Bull**** is taking a toll...... work is completely different.... harder to get, lost my stepfather in this mess,some of my friends have lost their family members..... Very strange and difficult times.

But.. gotta keep moving forward.

Want to thank a superior fantastic member..Bill(Ford Blue Blood)
Bill really helped me a -T O N- through the wiring .....answered my very novice and idiotic questions... he is a very fine gentleman.
(Yes Bill, the fire dept is STILL standing by......)

Anyhow... getting the will or inspiration in the last 2 months has been very difficult.

 

Been very slow going during the holidays and the Covid BS.. but my sealed Q windows are in!... and the rubbers are set and being trained.......
........thats all.

 

I really wanted to do that with this car.... and i am still pondering if I might on the second one....

 

Joe.... I may still go that way on the other 57,I have a complete 312(needs a rebuild) and the Green/Turq Y block is a 292 with 57 312 heads...... needs to be gone through. Saying that....I acquired a fresh 352(60-61 vintage).... And I have some early speed parts and Ford factory Hi-Po stuff for that era engine....
I am fascinated with Y-Blocks... but i am not up to speed on them.... and building one just ain't cheap.... and finding a local competent Machine shop is a challenge that understands them..... Just not sure yet.

 

Yes Rock, I gave it my best shot.... and it failed.....but the Hurst unit is so much better.Very positive, direct and zero bind.Can't wait to row the Boat.