Technical The upholstery thread to end all threads

I like those plastic ones on the bottom left, it is nice how they just twist into the panel. And you are right, THEY WILL get torn up if you pull the panels

 

A long nose stapler like this one is nice to have.
https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-L...Gvj8AaPAUCaWzpiHy2-QgmnjpT8PqngxoCSQcQAvD_BwE

A steamer like this one is also nice to have.
https://www.amazon.com/J-4000M-Jiff...ocphy=9028744&hvtargid=pla-307124375182&psc=1

 

I have a air powered upholstery stapler, I bought it from Prime fasteners.

 

1/16” is too thin and lacks any structural integrity when unsupported across any larger spaces.

I wouldn’t be surprised to hear that panels buckled with that thickness especially with heat involved.

I like the 1/8” as it retains its shape.
And it’s not going to move with heat from the sun if you do it right.

It’s harder to work with than the thinner panels but gives better results.
And of course the spring clips I used are a perfect fit on a 1/8” panel.

 

I've used utility board from Lowe's a bunch for door panels. It's 1/8" thick and one side is primed. Cuts fairly easy with a good utility knife. And i use the industrial velcro to secure it.

 

Make sure you can get stainless steel staples when ordering a stapler. Check the prices of them as they can get costly for your brand of stapler.

 

ARE THESE MACHINES ANY GOOD? MAYBE JUST TO TRY WITHOUT A BIG INVESTMENT?

 

I was curious because I have a small crown stapler, but I think 1/2" is what a lot of guys are using.

 

The first machine I bought was a small Pfaff from a sewing machine dealer that had used it in their school. It was a walking foot, but had a hard time starting when you used multiple layers of vinyl fabric (small motor mounted to the machine). I think I gave around $130.00 for it and it actually sewed quite well. I kept looking for and industrial machine and found an older Pfaff industrial with a new motor and clutch for $400.00. That baby will sew through anything. It was money well spent.

The problem with a non-walking foot machine is feeding the material. They have a toothed platform that rises up to pulls the material past the stationary foot. On a walking foot, half the foot and the platform move together. It is a much more positive feed.

 

Auveco makes more kinds of automotive fasteners and clips than anyone I know of. You can Google Auveco catalog and download it or order one. Dixieland Distributors has good prices and has product in stock for immediate shipment. If you are looking for door panel clips, they have all kinds.

https://www.dixied.com/index.html

 

For panels, I used a board from Home Depot, it is constructed or made like card board but it's plastic. It's light and water proof, it's located in the plexiglass isle. Miami Corporation has the best spray on glue that you can buy plus they have all sorts of upholstery stuff. I bought ribbed rubber mat from them for the floor and it was really nice heavy made. I think it was like $35 a yard. They are located in Cincinnati Ohio. They have a website but it sucks, I called and got part numbers for what I needed and entered them in the search box and ordered what I needed, the guy I talked to even said the site was terrible.

 

product name is Coroplast.

 

Not sure this is what he is talking about. This looks like the stuff they make yard signs out of.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coropla...-Plastic-Sheet-5-Pack-COR6MM4896-WT/206084764

@Mike Colemire , what say ye?

 

Expanded PVC board makes really good interior panels, plus it can be shaped with a heat gun. You can find it at your local plastics distributor in 4x 8 sheets. Or you can order it online.

https://www.acmeplastics.com/expanded-pvc-foam

 

Another option for panels is aluminum sheet. It's light weight, easy to bend and keeps it's shape. I used it for the panels around the rear window on my F-1, worked good.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread but here's an El Cheapo router table that you can build in less than an hour and works just as well as the high dollar factory types.
Drilled a hanger hole and hung it out of the way

Used a piece of 3/4 plywood that was laying around. Your measurements can be whatever you want or need. 1x5 has a 1" hole to clear the router bit. Drilled a clearance hole for pivot screw which screws into table top. Layed out the router location using the screw holes in the router shoe. Used a 1 1/2" hole saw for hole in table top.

 

Use a router on any piece of wood you are covering. It takes away the hard edge as you pull the material around when covering it.

 

So can one or more of the really knowledgeable guys make a post and list just what the new guys should look for when buying a machine. It seems that people are trying to save money initially and then finding they have to add upgrades ($) or just make do because the machine didn't have a feature they needed. Don't list what someone can "get by without", Post a list of the things they should get to do the job right and efficiently. Better to spend more up front than to upgrade later. From what I see, a walking foot, and slow speed control and reverse should be the minimum a buyer should look for.

 

I am no professional but have been sewing for 30 years .Now that makes me just a guy who can sew So @ekimneirbo a walking foot is number one if you plan on doing upholstery as for the speed control I am conflicted with that. I have two machines Pfaff and consew and they dont have the speed controllers . You will be surprised how much you wheel your machine by hand. You learn how to control your machine and can and do sew at a slower rate but kick ass when I need. Like making your welting you have to make a bunch and its pretty easy . The machine really does the work so I let it rip as fast as the machine can go and it’s FAST. When starting a stitch you kinda do it with you hand wheel until your in position and go. The reverse is handy but can be accomplished by lifting your presser foot turning the materials a few hand stitches and lift presser foot and start to sew. It’s more time consuming but most older machines dont have reverse.
In fact I am looking to buy a singer 29 hand stitcher , so no motor just hand wheel ,no reverse and no fancy things besides gold leafing and scrolling but wicked cool from the 1910 era. I infact do hand stitching on gun holsters, purses, wallets toolbags and stuff a sewing machine cant do unless its a cylinder machine( round base on the bottom where the bobbin goes).
It’s kinda working in the garage or shop tools make you life easier but having a car lift is handy but not 100% necessary or air tools
So my list would be walking foot machine with welting foot, hand full of bobbins ,basking tape, sharp shears , a few different size and kinds of needles point and knife. Good Thread like new 69 and 92 stuff and throw away what you got with the machine is key along with some contact cement spray like header bond or brush on in a ventilated area. I like a long neck stapler as @stanlow69 suggested and super handy and a must.

 

Never had a long neck stapler but that`s fine. I have 6 others. A walking foot is like an air impact tool compared to a screwdriver as to a home machine. With a home machine you can sew a couple layers of material just fine. Add welt and foam backed vinyl, and it will not do the job. It can but you will struggle a bit.

 

This machine is like a commercial version of a home machine. But from the 1950`s and before. It`s a bit better but you will struggle sewing multiple layers as it is not a true walking foot. It`s like 1950`s version of a walking foot. But it`s better than a home version. No reverse is on this machine. One with a reverse is about $450. With out, $250.

 

We are getting a little better with this one. It is a true walking foot machine but has no reverse. Price range is about $650 plus.

 

This is a commercial walking foot with a reverse. Price range $800 to $1200 and up. Consew, Juki and Phaff are the Ford, Chevy, And Dodge of brands. Any off shore brands, you never know if`s its a Yugo.

 

The one thing you want in a machine is stitch length. 4 stitches per inch is a good thing. Take two good quality pieces of vinyl and sew them together. Measure your stitch length. Now think when you add welt. Non pre made is another two layers of vinyl. That`s 4 layers. Your stitch length just got shorter. Then if it has foam glued to it. the stitch length just got shorter. It takes a bit more for the machine to pull it thru. How does the servo motor do when this happens?

Look at the stitch length, just think if the stitches were closer. If it had more holes, just think of tearing off the paper along the dotted line. Also you need the depth between the needle and the machine head. When sewing pleats, you need to roll the material up as you sew more pleats. If the material is 50 inches wide with foam attatched to it, you would have to stuff 25 inches in the space between the head and the needle. That`s where a long arm comes in handy. They have 20 inchers and 30 inchers. But that`s more money. I do have a 20 incher that`s needs work, doesn`t have reverse. Came in handy when repairing a 30 foot tent with a hole in the middle. Was still a pain in the but. I also used it to sew up a tuck`n`roll headliner running front to back in my Dad`s 51 Ford Vicky.

 

These might be some useful ideas:

Upholstery group on social forums here
Lucky Needle
Facebook Group: Vintage Industrial Sewing Machines
Chefalo
The upholstery threads here are humbling. These cats here can upholster
Local Upholstery shop just to hang out

 

Hey Root you know my wife does upholstery? https://www.facebook.com/Gotcha-Covered-988828084578657

 

So what would be the common stitch length for say 1/2” sew backing foam with 1” pleats? How do you know when you have the right amount of stitches per inch? I’ve played around with this a bit and find to many just cuts into the vinyl. To little is like a loose nut on a bolt. Above seemed to be just right. When I went to take some of it apart it was really difficult. Which tells me it’s about the right amount. This is a bit advanced for a rookie but I found my self rolling half of the cover tight to feed thru the throat and was a bit of a challenge but went slow and it turned out nicely. I still would like to find a nice marking pencil or pen. I have a half a dozen so called fabric marking markers/pens that don’t mark? Any recommendations? Thanks for the input. David


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Most would think I’m stupid for buying a new machine. But I did. I got a brand new machine Consew 226R. Why? Well I’ll tell you why. I’ve owned three in past. The vintage singer walking foot was the best of the three but had a small throat and the foot wouldn’t go to high so I couldn’t sew thru thick foam and was difficult feeding extra material thru the throat. Sold it for what I had into it. The second machine was a used Consew 226R that had 1,000,000 miles on it and went out of time and had to sink a few bucks into it to get my interior done. A lot of these machines are for sale because they are wore out and need serviced. The third was this year and ran to fast and didn’t have reverse. I had forgotten most of anything I learned from the last go at it. I had it serviced and needed to find a way to slow it down and now wanted a reverse and got pissed off and sold it and bought a brand new machine. I paid $1,500 for the new machine vs $700-$800 for something used that I didn’t know anything about. And finally I got some videos and learning the tricks that discourage me in the past . The place I bought mine from services these machines and sometimes gets them in on trade and goes thru them. The Craigslist or Facebook stuff I found to be worked over like a rented mule. Especially if any Asians been behind them.


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Post a pic of your longer stitch that`s a loose nut on a bolt. It might be that monofilament thread doesn`t flex like thread does. You said you had a lifetime supply with the large spool you had. I bought A 20 inch darning machine(Had to research to see what one was) this summer for cheap. My wife does quilting. It came with 8 large spools. So if you run out ! A machine with worn parts is more likely to break the mono thread. If I remember right, does it hold up under the UV rays of the sun ? For marking pleats, use chalk. Not all kinds are equal. My supplier sells it in lots of 12 boxes. It`s Hygieia. The stuff at the dollar store doesn`t work.

 

I have run 4 layers of heavy vinyl with 2 layers of 1/2 scrim back foam through my machine with my servo motor with zero effort. They are industrial sewing machine motors. It's what they are designed to do.