I have a 69 383 and 69 727 ******. they obviously fit great. I wanting to run a '62 push ****on 727. are there any issues? which torques converter/flex plate should I use. I either will work which one will mostly have a more compatible stall rate to be used with a warmed over 383 and a 3.55 suregrip rear? Am I over thinking this?
Hopefully you have the ****ons for that '62. The shift cables are available through Imperial Services. The inputs are different, so use the stock '62 converter/flex plate; however, there's a guy on eBay that sells the stuff to convert an early 727 to use the later converters (better selection in the aftermarket). The driveshaft is another concern because of the ball & trunion setup on the early 727s. Be sure to search the "Tech Archives" of the 62-65 Mopar webpage for other push****on TF info. I'm planning on running a '64 361 and push ****on 727 as well. Just need to remove them from the donor sometime this winter while the poison ivy is hibernating.
A good place to ask questions about this is www.moparts.com Member CRT knows 727's, that is all he does.
If you want to run a push ****on -- You have to get a BIG BLOCK case pre 1965 In 1965 the trans was still cable shifted but thru a column shift .................................................... You will have to switch the tail shaft to a late model to get slip in yoke .................................................... You will have to switch front pump to late model to get a aftermarket torque convertor .......................................................... all of these swaps are common to "most" decent trans shops ............................................................. CRT is Cope racing transmissions --His name is John www.coperacingtrans.com
I'm probably severly mistaken but to switch a push ****on to a shifter you have to change thwe valve body, I got to ***umje that it would also work in the toher direction. In otherwords you can move the push****on valve body and controls to the later ****** and loose the ball and trunion. But like i said i'm probably severly mistaken. there used to be a ****** guy on nhere i wonder where he's at these days.
All cable shifted 727s are push****on compatable. Only '65 ******s had the slip yoke that bolts on to 62-64 ******s. Good converter outfits know about the input spline count on early ******s and can make a converter to fit without a problem. And sorry porkerbean.... Thats a no-go on swapping valve bodies. The early and late 727s are very different, they will not swap. David
It sounds like As long as I use the torque converter, flexplate, and driveshaft. I am fine. I have all of these from the donor. All I should need to do is cut the drive shaft to fit. 1 last question, will the '69 starter work with the earlier ******?
gotta reply from a guy on moparts. He says the older trunion style is very weak. I'm looking at atleast 425 hp here and I plan on using the posi. Should I not even bother with this ****** and use my standard 727. I would hate to build a crossmember cut a driveshaft and everything just for cool ****ons if it won't hold up. If it will hold I would love the ****ons. I know '65 push****ons had the stronger slip yoke driveshaft, but I here they are impossible to find and expensive when you do.
Several issues.... 1 - Ball and trunion is weak and expensive to replace when it goes 2 - 61' was the last year supposedly but I have seen several early 62's with the old style crank flange - which sticks out further from the block, which makes the bellhousing deeper on the trans...check it! 3 - converter uses a different spline count 4 - no part throttle kickdown on either of those transmissions, but the 69' valve body can take it as an upgrade, not sure about the earlier ones. 5 - the early trans will only have 3 pinion planetaries, but the 69 trans might have 4 pinion if its a factory hipo trans. Will probally take more clutches and steels also. It should also have a kickdown lever with a better ratio, like a 3.8 instead of the earlier ones 2.5. Take the two trannies and make one if you really want to have push****ons. All you really need to keep is the main case and valve body. 727's are very simple to rebuild. The only thing you have to watch for is pulling the front pump out (need a slide hammer) and the snap ring for the tailhousing which is located under the steel plate at the trans mount (need snap ring pliers). The good rebuild kits are about $100 and the trans is about the easiest to rebuild.
I would listen to Mr. Cope's advice. 727's will hold up but if you plan on "spirited" driving you will want the later trans. Especially a unit w/ low band apply (if you value your feet and shoes). 2t
I love this rumor..... Everyone says its weak and not to use it. But none of these people ever messed with one. I've built and raced more of these cars than those other guys. You won't break it. 425HP isn't enough to break anything on a mopar. David
I have raced and broken ball and trunion joints behind 727's (64' Dodge 330 2 dr post with a 440). They are reasonably strong, but are a ***** to replace and are expensive compared to U-joints. The low band apply valve bodies that people are talking about only really helps when you are doing a burnout and the tires suddenly bite coming out the burnout. The sprag takes the entire shock, and tries to move forward in the case. The low band apply helps keep everything from moving forward. This is why they say you should always start a burnout in a mopar in 2nd gear. Newer Turbo Action are one of th best valve bodies you can get. The older TA valve bodies do not have low gear apply. A bolt in sprag is a cheap and effective insurance. Usually the iron drum fails before a bolt in 16 element sprag. By using thinner steels and going to a billet apply piston you can fit in more clutches and make the trans good a hell of a lot of power. Solid bands are needed for any hipo application. If running a transbrake - billet steel drum. Otherwise you are looking for a trans explosion. Rollerizing the trans removes about half the drag and makes the trans as efficent as a 904. Drilling the clutch drum makes the 2-3 shift faster. A higher ratio kickdown lever (a 4.2 works really well) and heavy duty strut makes the 1-2 shift much harder. Billet band apply pistons really don't do all that much. The newer pumps are much better also. The early trans used a rear pump also which saps power.
I have a ball and trunion behind a 700 hp 440 and so far no problems. I did put in a CRT low band apply valve body and the everything needed to run an after market convertor has been changed. Do your self a favor and get an old manual or something that shows you how to adjust the shift cable that goes in the trans to the valve body, you should check this after the trans and shift is installed if not then you will burn up that ****** in a hurry.
great info. the other ***** is the condition of the ****** is unknown. the '69 is known to be good. What I'm hearing is that this ****** is strong enough for the HP. one more thing I just thought of. how flexible are thes ball-trunions. I am planning on bagging this car at a later date I'm not sure this will hold up. Like I said before I would like the push ****on ****** but if the standard ****** is strong more convient I will just use that one. I would hate to have to redo the crossmember driveshaft torque converter later when I also have the '69 ******/driveshaft/torque converter also. If (I know I'm a pain in the ***) I would eventually like to put in a overdrive ****** A518 maybe, right now I need to use what I have. so which ****** setup is easire to convert to a latter ****** I'm guessing the slip yoke tailshaft ******, but not sure. I appreciate all you info. This is why this place rocks.
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