Projects I'm 18 and building my first flathead 59AB+merc crank for my chopped 34 4 door sedan

To be clear; all late ('49-'53) rods are the same dimension. The longer stroke Mercury used pistons with a different pin height.

 

I bought my Ross pistons with Total Seal metric rings last fall. Cost was $670 with everything shipped.

 

One other thing, as mentioned before, you really need to find a flat head place that knows how to set up the full floating bearings. The inserts are kind of a given. That said, an old timer I knew years ago said for higher spinning FH’s, he’d only use the floating bearings.
Hopefully someone can chime in with knowledge about it.

 

That's really interesting if anyone has any information to back that would be helpful.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

@tubman may be able offer info. I’ve no experience

 

Ok, regarding full floating bearings. Yes, in a mechanical sense, they provide the best protection since the bearing is floating is two layers of oil. One between the crank and the inner shell and another between the outer shell and the con rod.

These were used early on by racers since it was the technology they knew and bearings were readily available.

Unless you plan to do all out, high RPM racing, I don't think there is a need, but I would defer to the experts.

I believe Ronnie Roadster, one of the top flathead builders & racers out there, uses insert bearings in all of his stuff. (Ronnie, please correct me if I'm wrong). If that is the case, if they are good enough for his 200+ mph all out state of the art flatheads, they are good enough for the rest of us.

I would also start a thread over on Fordbarn.com. Guys like Ol' Ron, Bored & Stroked and cam grinder Pete (another West Coast all out race engine builder) will jump in. I remember Ol' Ron saying the New England area guys use to run their floater bearing tolerances loose to help them wind a little higher. I think even Ol' Ron has switched over to insert bearings. Not sure about Dale (Bored & Stroked).

This is my best advise: Flatheads suffer from some of the worst bench racing in the business. Find a trusted flathead guy and listen to them. It will save you time and money vs. chasing internet rumors, out of touch magazine articles. or plain old snake oil.

California is full of tried and true flathead guys. Ask around and do your homework. Believe it or not, a great place to start is your local Early V8 club.

Good luck and let us know how your making out and keep asking questions.

 

I couldn't have said it better. Remember, we're talking engines for street use here.

 

Ok thank you for the information I'll set up a thread on the ford barn.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Does anyone have any clue what a 59 D block is? I thought some of you might know something about this because I can't seem to find any information online.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've never seen a D block. I have seen Z, X, Y, L and regular 59 blocks, but a D is new to me.

 

Me too. Hard to tell from the pict, but it looks like there is a hog's head attached to it as well. Maybe some type of truck or industrial application?

 

I just read that someone pulled one out of a general electric welder. I can take a better picture what exactly is a hog's head?

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

A hogshead is what the guys call the short bellhousing that connects a pre-49 block to the separate truck transmission housing. Basically looks like the big end of a '39 transmission with the gearhousing machined off and some holes drilled into it. Very useful to use to adapt any newer transmission to a flathead. Just need a talented machinist to whittle up a plate with the two different bolt patterns on it.

 

Oh, it does have a 39 trans bolted to it I forgot to say that, my bad.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

There is a guy selling what he calls a hogshead in the classifieds. It is not, he has an F-1 pickup bellhousing ring to adapt to the passenger-style transmission which was also used in the smaller pickups. Just so's you don't get confused.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hogshead.1218469/

 

For somewhat local suggestions for FH shop, @roseville carl has a FH powered FED. He might know something in the area. Yosemite Machine Shop in Modesto was a place many used to go to as well, but I don’t know over the past 30 years if they are still good with them.
All the other places I knew of from years ago have closed down now.

 

Dropped the pan on the complete 8ba I picked up. A few pieces of rat crap and metal dropped out with it. I don't know what happened but 2 rods snapped and the cam has completely disintegrated and now it looks like a dog turd. Welp there's a few good parts on the top of it, and my dad and I got a good laugh. Don't think it's worth the PB blaster to free it up.[emoji23]

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If the block might be good it’s worth saving. See any cracks from the carnage?

 

I didn't get a chance to check it out really I'll look at it more when I get a chance I've been busy clearing out an area in the upper barn on my property so I have a place to store and organize my stuff I've been getting.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

To add some info about the full floating bearings here's some info. The crankshafts used in the 1948 and earlier flatheads are different in the way the rod bearings receive oil. These early crankshaft rod journals have only one oil hole located in the center of the journal. This design requires using only full floating rod bearings. In old days {the last century} full floating bearing's was the choice for completion engine's. But this is the 21st century so much has changed especially when it comes to flatheads.

The cost of the full floating bearing's is easily double that of insert bearings and for some of the early floaters the ones with lips pre 1939 those 2 inch diameter rod journal bearings can be even more than double. Adding to the full floater expense is the added cost to rebuild the connecting rods remember the floater bearing is rotating in the rod so this diameter must be a precision bore. This adds considerably to the cost when rebuilding the connecting rod.

I can say from experience the Ford flathead 8BA connecting rods are strong they can easily handle 300 horsepower. Also all of the available after market connecting rods those being the H beam design while being off shore made can handle more that the 8BA rods. And then there's the USA made connecting rods the type serious all out flathead racers like myself use they can easily handle well over 700 HP.
So in the end I feel full floaters are good for restorations if needed other than that save your money and use the Ford 8BA connecting rods your wallet will be happy you did.
Ronnieroadster

 

Thank you for the great information!

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

if your block is ok I should have most parts to get ya running give me a call when ya get a chance sent ya a pm.......

 

Have you looked inside of this yet?

 

I have not it's a put together running motor that I can't take apart right now.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Wait, the motor is running currently? If it doesn't smoke, spit water out and starts right up, don't touch it. Trust me on this.

If you must, put some dress up goodies on it. Get the car on the road and you can rebuild the motor later. Having a running motor is a very good motivator to get your project done.

 

It's not the same motor from what I'm building it is not mine to mess with I was just interested if anyone has any information on 59 d blocks.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Enjoying the thread, I didn't see it but do your self a favor and get a nice tap set and thread restorer set (like taps but not as aggressive) also, anyone can take it apart and ruin it, I think someone said earlier, patience; lots of patience.

Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ok I'll look into it!

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

They are called thread chasers!

 

Correct. Try to find the set Sears sells. It's the same one Snap-On sells at 3/4's the price. This was confirmed by my Snap-On dealer buddy.

http://www.searshometownstores.com/product/Craftsman-971-2750-48-pc-SAE-Metric-Thread-Restorer-Kit