Hello all, not sure if I should share a planned road trip like this, maybe there is a better platform for that? I wanted to reach out to the community on my route and maybe somebody has a lead for me on what I am looking for. I posted a few weeks ago after being a lurker in the shadows, anyways, got a hot lead on a body i am going to be driving to pick up January 16th weekend or January 23rd weekend depending on weather, etc. I am figuring since i will be out of my area, i might as well look for parts on the way, since different areas have different parts and people. Going Traditional AV8. here is what I have so far: Model A Stock Frame Running 59AB flathead Complete 39 Transmission 40 Open drive rear-end model a stock front suspension 1936 wide 5 wheels, drums, and hubcaps 1936 steering column drop Extra Ford 94 Script Carb Right now, here is what i am looking for: late 1930s or 1940 axle tube and drive line to convert to closed drive 1936 dash Late 30s Banjo Steering Wheel F1 Steering Box F1 Pedal ***embly Dual Carb intake for the 59AB, prefer to keep generator in stock location to keep it all compact and run a full hood 32 grill shell and radiator So not sure if I will get any bites on this posting, but for some reason, since i am new, i cannot respond to any of the ads (maybe since i haven't posted enough and they want to make sure i am not a robot) So anybody in Columbus, Cincinatti, Cleveland, Toledo, Indianapolis or anywhere in between Pittsburgh and Chicago gonna have a covered trailer making a little road trip and want to get the biggest bang for my buck on the trip for parts mode! thanks all for any leads! Eric
Good luck on your parts search. Just don’t flake or low ball if someone helps you. Then you have a source for the future .
No one can reply. You have to PM them and until you get around 25 posts you cannot do that. So start posting to get your count up. I am near Wheeling WV.
Well some parts might find you but be sure and ask for a current photo with THAT DAY'S LOCAL PAPER next to the item the are offering. Just as you have lurked in the past there are a number who lurk to prey on folks who post that they need something. Secondly know or have a real good ideal of the going price for items. A couple of years ago I bought an F-1 ch***is that was minus the engine. I pulled the steering box, drums, backing plates, shock brackets, crossmember and pedals off it and posted it on either Craigslist or FB market place for what I paid for it and some guy with an F-1 with a screwed up jumped on it and was tickled to get it. It had everything he wanted on on it. That ch***is had sat for years after the body was pulled off and stuck on a 4x4 ch***is. Simply meaning keep your eye out for a donor for certain parts. Especially F-1 parts.
alright, the honeymoon phase is over and reality is sinking in, i have ALOT of work ahead of me to get something that is even relatively considered a car. Trip details were as follows: Went and picked up a 6' x 12' U-haul trailer since the trailer i have is not set up for 500 mile trips, so 70 bucks spent on that for a 2 day rental seemed like a decent price, PLUS, i insured the car for $10,000 through u-haul for the trip for $22, not bad insurance considering i would be driving through several states with precious un-insured cargo, seemed like the right thing to do. All in i think it cost me $100 on the trailer rental and insurance. anyways, i swung through Columbus on the way to Chicago (i know, not exactly on my way) but it was worth it, picked up a very nice 36 dash complete with waterfall, gauges, and glovebox door, so it was worth the extra 45 minutes out of my way, and in the grand scheme of the build, one of the better decisions i will have hopefully made! fast forward through the end of that night, got to Chicago area to my hotel and another $100 spent on hotel room i am now $200 into this trip and may not even buy the car, it better be nice. Saturday morning i get up, shower and go out into the 6 degree weather, and think this is going to be miserable loading this thing up in the cold, but hopefully worth it. Picked it up and was on the road by 10 am, and swung through another part of chicago to look at some wide 5 drums. bought those just because i was in that area, dont really need them, but an old timer always told me to buy when i see them, even if i dont need them. i think with moderation , anyways, was back on the road and was driving through toledo area to pick up a dropped axle and rear axle (dropped axle was supposed to be a 35/36, but after measuring when i got home, its 2" wider on the perch bolt locations, and according to my research, its a 37 and later dropped axle, still cool to me and cooler than the stock model a axle that i have currently. got back from my road trip late saturday night and didnt unload, i was beat, 1000 miles in 2 days ****s, especially in my jeep, which got 9.9 mpg on the way there, and 8.9 mpg on the way back, i think i spent over $250 in just gas for the trip, but worth the memories. So, all in, got my 1930 tudor, picked up a 1935 dropped axle (which i find out later through measuring it and actually looking at it that it is actually a 1937 and later dropped axle) but still cool to me, and the 36 dash and some extra wide 5 front and rear drums. now all i can do is go out in the garage and stare at this pile of stuff and think about all the fun i am going to have working on it.
now that i have it home, and in the garage, i can actually see how the body is going to sit on the frame. i temporarily welded an extra rear cross member i had on at 7-3/8" behind the original one for the spring behind. Vern Tardel says that this is not as cool as spring over approach, but my thought is, if i am going to be cutting the frame up anywyas, i might as well not add extra work to the build by having to cut up and weld on my axle any more than i need to, so i opted to go the spring behind, and per my measuing it, i came up with 7-3/8", and i verified that at least one other person on the hamb said the same number, so at least we are both wrong together. i kept it at stock elevation for now just so i could see where the wheel will fit in the opening, and i think i may end up stepping it up 2-3" in the rear. This will all be based on how much lower i can get in the front, because right now, the front sits up higher than the rear, but, with smaller tires in the front, it should balance it all out. i am thinking based on some S%^t-house math i did on a napkin, i will lower the front about 4 inches and the rear can be stepped up another 3, and i should have a relatively level looking frame (mathematically speaking) this is all based on what that dropped axle actually gets me. anyways, on speedway yesterday i ordered: Speedway Front Solid Axle Leaf Spring Perch, Plain Forged Steel 91033047 $ 43.29 1 $ 43.29 Ford Model T - 1934 Front Spring U-Bolt Kit, Plain Steel 91633006 $ 29.99 1 $ 29.99 Speedway Hoop Style Steering Arm, Ford Spindle 7204010 $ 20.99 1 $ 20.99 Posies 1009 1937-40 Ford Axle 33.5 Inch Reversed Eye Spring 5801009 $ 154.99 1 $ 154.99 i went with the 33.5" reverse eye spring since i came up with a wider spring to spring center to center than the model a, and would not be able to use the stock model a spring that i have. i also ordered from Snyders: rear u bolts and stuff to attach the rear spring and also ordered a wishbone mount that i plan on using (i will try and not split the wishbones up front and see where that takes me. And, i also ordered on So-Cal Roadster supply, their flathead mounts, i got 2 sets, one for the motor, and the other for the transmission. RSC-42804 Flathead Style Motor Mount Cushion Kit 2 $29.99 $59.98 so, that is where i sit today with this thing and hope to keep posting as this thing progresses and the parts i ordered show up. wanted to sprinkle the love around the 3 places since i am new to this and want to see the customer service from each. I talked to somebody at Speedway yesterday that was a huge help on figuring out that i had the 37 axle and not the 35 like i thought, and that helped me to buy that spring, so, i figure if the person on the other side can sell me something over the phone by telling me numbers, they must know what they are talking about. anyways, here is a shot of the rear cross member and hole in the back of my floor i cut out last night, super excited to grind on that 90 year old metal, i was very meticulous when removing the rear seat part because i am a cheap A$$ and want to reuse anything i can that is not rusted out. also, here is a shot of the f1 steering box i picked up before my trip, had plans for a banjo steering wheel, but found out through research, i would need to cut out the center to make the splines match up the f1 box, and i was thinking for now, i will keep the wheel i have and if the last piece i need is the steering wheel, i worry about that down the road.
also, for any of you people out there that i dont know want to tell me happy birthday , feel free, it would be no different than all the other people on my facebook page that tell me happy birthday every year, though i never do the same or do i ever actually talk to them. i am more friends with you people on here anyways since we all like cars anyways!
Cool story. @eric12s when you fit the dash try to allow for window crank rotation . We did not with our 36 dash, but were able to reverse the location on door handles to the front and window crank to the rear in factory three 28 tudor holes.
I ran into the window crank problem also. Swapped in late model window regulators. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The window crank info is the sort of priceless detail available here that will save you lots of pain.
@mr.chevrolet, you know you are the only "old timer" that would give me such guidance on buying things as backups! actually i would think most old timers would say the same thing, and even me as a "new timer" knows good logic when i hear it!
alright guys, been in AutoCAD playing around and want to share with the community. I have decided for my build, to run the wide 5 wheels and hubcaps, they were the first thing i bought and was like, yep, gonna use those for the build. so, using what i have gathered on here, i want to run 7.50 x 16" on the rear, and 4.75 x 16" in the rear, whitewalls. so, converting that to inches, its like 31" in the rear, and 26" and some change in the front, so everything i have modeled shows both of those. Drawing 1, currently as it sits, no Z or drop. Drawing 2, 2" Z in the rear and 3.5" total drop in the front (have no clue if this is what i will have until i get it all bolted together) Drawing 3 is 2" Z in the rear, 3.5" drop in the front, and an additional 2" sweep in the front (Pie cut the frame right after the fire wall) Drawing 3 is my least favorite because i will probably run into issues with running a full hood without crazy modifications, and still may not fit it with the flathead air cleaner. Drawing 4 is just an isometric view for fun. anyways, I cant draw very nice with pen and pencil, but always have been using CAD, so i resort to that since it is my comfort zone. The body and frame were traced on from pictures i found on the internet.
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