Technical School me on building a 427 Chevy

Hey guys! Just scored a 396 for C H E A P tonight, picking up Monday morning. The block has a cracked cylinder wall, but that's fine with me. I know you can make a 427 with a 454 block and new pistons, but what else will I want? I know my small blocks, but I've never messed with these motors much. I'm pretty unfamiliar with what casting numbers to look for and the like.

What it does have:

3904815NF crank in good shape. My understanding is these are decent for a cast piece.

290 casting heads. My list of casting numbers says these are 101cc, closed chamber, oval ports. I was looking at Speedpro 2300NF or 2268NF. I believe these are ok to use with closed chamber heads, but not sure if they'll jive with these specifically being such a small chamber.

And all the other bits a pieces, just dis***embled.

Are all other parts the same? No adapter bearings or anything needed for different journal sizes or anything? Are some factory rods better than others?

Tell me everything!! I'm also interested in any good articles or books to read up on the subject.

Thanks guys!

 

I have one of these in my library and have found it to be helpful.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/HP-Books-How-To-Hot-Rod-Big-Block-Chevys,2765.html

 

Yep ^^^^^^^^^ Whut he said. Best place to start is with a book that gives you a lot of numbers and explanations that are organized instead of piecemeal.

 

Plugging the numbers in summits compression calculator the 2300nf pistons will get you 10.3 ratio the 2268 nf 12.6 with .040 gaskets and the pistons .005 down in the bore.

 

Thanks for suggesting that book for me! Just ordered one for cheap off flea spray. That had a copy from 1977, too, but I figured this is one instance that newer is probably better. I saw they have editions for a bunch of different engine families as well.

Edited for spelling... dang autocorrect!

 

Use the 396 crank and 427 pistons that will get ya there. You probably want flat tops and you still may be a little high on the compression ratio with those heads.

@squirrel has some experience with the destroked 454. Maybe he will chime in.

 

Based on the head numbers and cast crank, id guess this is a 1970 to 1971 402..block ending in 854. Not quite sure those blocks can be bored to a 427s bore of 4.250. Pretty sure if memory serves that the 402 being a .030 over 396 already had another bore job in it and that's about it.

 

I'll be using a 454 block for sure, but I just had to reply to say that's a pretty sharp memory you have! It is indeed an 854 block that's with these parts.

 

Do yourself a favor and keep the compression 9 or under.. This way you can advance the timing into a better preforming setting and not have all the issues that hi compression with cheap gasoline can have like hard starting, pinging and the bad one, detonation.. One thing the 70s taught us was you don't need a lot of compression to make decent street power just cubes..

 

without knowing what you want to do with the engine, it's hard to make recommendations.

You really should try to get a 1970s print of the "how to hot rod..." book, if you can find one that hasn't fallen apart. Then you'll get the real feel of building a 427 the old way

that means no aftermarket heads, etc.

But again, no idea what you want to do with the engine....

 

In general, here's a link to a BBC "recipe" I think you'll at least enjoy reading. It was linked to a thread on frontenginedragsters.org

https://www.draglist.com/stories/SOD Apr 2001/SOD-042701.htm

Lynn

 

Glad you posted on this Squirrel, I always value your opinion on this kind of stuff. I spoke too soon about getting that book, I was sure I had it but then it got swiped from under me. The good news there is that I ended up getting the 1977 edition instead!

As for use, it will be going in Biscayne, which will be a mostly period mid-60s modified production type street/strip car. I'd like to run it at the Fallout and be at least semi-compe***ive. No goals of winning anything, but you know, stay in the game a little while. I plan to use all 60s tech all the way through, similar to the 327 I'm currently running (solid flat tappets, period intake, all that jazz).

It will see street use, but in the vein of true '60s fashion the operative word is "streetable." Hope that makes sense.

 

See if you can find some rectangle port heads....the iron ones will be fine, but if you can score some aluminum snowflakes, that would be killer. The aluminum ones are getting pretty expensive, unfortunately. I found a pair for $1200 in 2013, that I have on the 427 in my Chevy II. They work great.

You could run the oval port heads you have, and have plenty of fun. Any 1970s-80s truck 454 block would work to build a 427 with the parts you have. You'd need 427 pistons, and probably have to get some balance work done unless you can get some lighter weight pistons than the normal forged replacements that you mentioned. I had to get some mallory metal in the steel 396 crank I put in mine, the balance job cost over $400. But it seems to work fine. The small dome pistons with open chamber heads have low enough compression that I can run a blower on it, on pump gas, no problem.



If you don't plan on driving the car much, going to the bigger dome is feasible, but expect to have to deal with pinging/octane issues. Race gas is so expensive that I'd err on the side of not enough compression, rather than too much, even for a car that you don't plan on street driving very much. But that's just me.

 

Squirrel, is that a compression release or just a really dark spot on the left hand piston?

 

Aluminum heads are pretty far out of the budget for the time being, but I'll definitely keep my head out for some rectangle port iron heads.

How much metal did they have to put in for $400? Or was that including weight matching rods/pistons? When I had my 327 balanced after I went to a little taller forged pistons I think I only paid around $100 (plus $80 for R&Ring the pistons), but I did all the weight matching at home.

Good points about not going crazy on comp, too. Not sure how much I'd have to take off, but I'm wondering if I could clean up and polish the chambers on these heads enough to get down closer to 10:1 with the smaller domes. Maybe mill a few thou off if need be?

What are your thoughts on intake options? Anything I should keep my eye out for at swapmeets this summer (***uming we actually have those this year)?

 

Love that biscayne. I live in winona. Drive by it all the time.

 

Hey thanks, man! Feel free to stop in any time, if the door's open or the light's on internet garage I'm probably out there. I work 4th shift so it'll usually be a weeknight.

 

It would be a little difficult to burn a hole through the dome of a solid dome piston. Probably just some oil drips and the lighting. What rear end is in the 59 Biscayne? Stock? I'm building a BBC for my Bracket Car also; short block's together, hydraulic roller cam, heads are done, but sitting on the shelf, and have everything else for ***embly/installation. The only other BBC I've had (other than one of my trucks), was in my Pro Bracket 56 Chevrolet Bus Coupe, and the guy I sold the engine/trans to in a partnership deal, for a cheap $1000.00, he grenaded the motor on his FIRST p***. I did't see him do it, but he was way, way down track, and when I got down there, the series 60 B & M shifter was bent over about 60 degrees away from the drivers seat; I really had a hard time containing my laughter. I figure he really over-revved it just before he shifted it, and pushed the stick over. The only outward indication there was something wrong with the engine, was the water dripping from the connection where the dip stick slips into the oil pan. But inside the engine, it looked like a hand grenade had gone off. Huge hole through the valley and camshaft, part of one cylinder and piston in the pan, rod wrapped around the crank, and pieces of broken/twisted metal everywhere. The heads were "OK", but I had them gone through, found another 427 short block, but the partners wife said, "not again"! Wound up helping him sell everything that was usable, and then sold the 56 Chevrolet. Then sold the mounts, headers, transmission, and a few other things to the same guy. He never did anything with the car, and sold it to a street racer. That street racer guy won the Super Chevy event at Seattle International Raceway with the car one year. Anyway, I'm going to give a big block (468 CID) another try, but it's also going in a big car. Good luck with your BBC. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

If you haven't been to the Fallout Drags, there is no bracket race at that event.

 

Right, Fallout is match style, but there's no reason you can't do both. I'm not positive, but isn't Fallout the same weekend as their muscle car night at Rock Falls? I think that is most likely a bracket event, but again, not positive.

 

The track has had a bracket race the Sunday after.
Guess what I am getting at is you don't have to be the fastest to win at a bracket race, just consistent.
The MDA guys are into being safe and having fun. Edit, ( And No F@&king whining )
I like your idea of building a 427, always wanted one. Sold all the parts before I had the chance.
I have built a 375 HP 396 for a customer, man that was a fun engine to drive.

 

Butch, I am running the stock rear currently. I made a set of locking spiders for it, and fully expected to either grenade it, or at the very least break an axle LOL! When it does let go I have another third member I'm putting together. My plan for it is 4.10 gears and Dana 44 spiders and axles. I think that should be sufficient for at least a few seasons.

I love that story too! Pretty funny, but I bet he didn't think so at the time LOL!

What car are you putting your 468 in?

 

Ah, I gotcha. I was just confused where bracket racing came in, but I see now. At any rate, I would like to do some of that one of these years. Just hard to get to the track at all when it requires strategic vacation time! If I do ever get to, Rock Falls is pretty much the "local" track for me (about 1.5 hours away).

 

Nice, if I had a track that close I would be there every time it was open even if I had to race my tow vehicle.

 

Well, since the cutoff is 1965 for this forum, I did't mention the year. It is a Biscayne, 4 door sedan in very good condition. Came with a 250 six and Powerglide I "sold" to a HAMBER for $100.00, and pulling it himself (with 2 friends of his). The ONLY option the came came with was air conditioning (?). Came out of Oklahoma and had it trucked up here. Plain Jane white with a blue vinyl interior, heater, but no radio. I graduated high school in 1969, the car was made a year earlier. The Washington State Patrol used the same exact car, colors and all, but with a 390 HP 427/TH400/12 bolt/rally wheels with poverty caps. I have the wheels, caps, and a 12 bolt with 4.88 gears and all new innards, not yet installed. Calling it my Sportsman Bracket/Old Man Car to drive on the street occasionally. But everything is getting in the way of the build. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Brings up an interesting point, as the 427 Chebbie did not come out until 1966, so it is outside of HAMB cutoff and should not be allowed, correct? Although it seems like many times Chebbie stuff gets a free p***? Should not everything be judged by the same rules?

 

I thought the cutoff used to be 1964. Did something change...?

 

My understanding is 65 and earlier- could be wrong? Still puts the 427 Chebbie in 1966 solidly outside the HAMB cutoff- but a 65 396 would be OK? Similarly, a Ford center oiler block & heads, 63, side oiler 65, medium riser heads 65, SOHC all would be OK, but a Tunnel Port, late 67-68 would not be allowed? I don't mind following rules, unless they are a moving target, makes it a little tough

 

Here we go again. Report the post and let’s the Mods figure it out, you’ll lose less sleep

 

Maybe just use the BBC connotation? All "kinds" of BBC's here, and it's been 42 years since my last one; hope it turns out better. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.