Yep - I attribute everything that goes right to dumb luck - one man’s trick or a trick you used before can turn to disaster the next time or for anyone else! It’s like recommending a restaurant! Lol!
Been staying busy on the project. Yesterday I determined where the park brake connections will be underneath and tied down what park brake cables I could. I can’t finish them until the exhaust is in. Worked on interior stuff today, mostly the back wall of the cab. I added some padding - wasn’t looking for anything perfect, just covering it so it isn’t just insulation .... It turned out a little rougher than what I expected but the seat covers 98% of it. I also cleaned out and finished the storage tray .... ... and I used a s**** piece of carpet for the bottom... bad pic I know but you get the idea. I then insulated what metal floor was visible under the seat and covered the area under the p***enger side with vinyl. I think between the storage tray and this area I can carry what I need in tools, jack, and whatever fluids and cleaning supplies I might need. We shall see .... I then prepped the roof area to install the headliner by dropping the check nailed .... ... that’s for tomorrow .... Getting there .....
The springs are 40 car springs, the ones with less leaves. Originally there were no plans for a camper or anything heavy in the back and I did not want a hard ride since this truck is for my wife. Well, that has changed and I will probably run these when towing my small camper .... If they do not do the trick, I will have to figure out a plan B .....
More interior work. I got the headliner using the same grey vinyl. It doesn’t lay out so flat on the insulation but I like the look .... I then trimmed the two pieces I am using to go from the back part of the cab, up and over the doors. With what added back wall padding they needed to be cut back and openings cleared .... I then worked on the back panel window surround as it too needed ng t******* and some shims so it would hold its shape. I will have a pic or two of that tomorrow. The headliner was a bear with all the shape changes in the roof and getting it under the console nice. I also had to tuck it in nice over the metal eyebrow covering above the windshield. I could not use any of the nice padding to make it smooth due to the clearance needed for the console install. I will work on it some more tomorrow as I intend to pad, apply the vinyl and install at least one of them tomorrow. Once the two over the door panels are in, I will finish and upholster the back panel. I need to make some windlace and install it too. The only upholstery left after that is the ****** cover and floor mats which is just carpeting .....
Worked on the over the door pieces today. I double padded them with the cheap headliner material. I did not have enough of the white padding. They came out pretty good ..... I then installed both sides on the truck, measured out tri m screw locations, and drilled pilot holes. It’s tricky to drill through the headliner stuff but I cut a small “X” over the hole you want to drill and normally it does not allow the material to bunch up ..... Once both sides were predrilled I removed them and made the panel holes larger. I am now making the holes in the door frames bigger, and I started pre-screwing the trim screws so everything will install smoothly. I will finish that up tomorrow, check for any further panel t*******, and upholster and install both sides. Then it’s on to the t******* of the back window panel. I am also on the hunt for the round material I will use for the wind lace. On my roadster I used the round insulation but that turned out to be too soft for my liking. The coupe still had the stock windlace installed so I did not experiment with anything there. Going over to ACE Hardware tomorrow and see what they have and perhaps Tractor Supply if I do not find anything to my liking. I am leaning towards glueing the windlace to the door frame and installing the panels over top. That way I can control exactly where the windlace will do the most good. I am hoping to have all the interior stuff done save for the ****** cover before the motor is ready to be picked up.....
Moving along on the interior, I laid everything out on my vinyl so I had enough to do everything: cutting out the strips for the windlace, the two over the door panels, the back window panel, and the two door square middle panels. Working with the p***enger side first, I glued the vinyl to my panel area by area, using spray headliner adhesive and gorilla tape to hold it in place, chased the mounting holes through the fabric, and then trial it ... After a few tweaks, I put the interior screws into the panel and into the threaded holes I had prepared.... I like the way it came out so it’s now on to the other side. All the driver side holes have been prepped and I will continue with this panel tomorrow. I went to the hardware store to find something suitable for my windlace insert. Since the truck door gaps are bigger than my old 40 coupes gaps, I opted for a 9/16ths clear plastic hollow hose. I have not used something like this before but it will flex, won’t dent, and should be big enough to fill the door gap. I will have a pic tomorrow....
Got to the driver door piece and finished it today .... Moved the n to the widow surround panel next .... ... and got it upholstered and installed ... Just the flat surfaces of the window surround are left and the two square door panels. I also cut long strips of vinyl for the windlace and the wife and I hope to tackle that in the next day or so. Finally it will be the ****** cover and the floor mats last. I owed you a pic of the backing for the windlace material .... We shall see how it will work out .....
It was a really nice day out today so I spent much of it just enjoying the weather. I did do some work - I mentioned that the area next to the ac unit under the seat was a good “toolbox” area. If I were to use it in that manner, I would not want any tools harming the ac unit. So I built a bulkhead to keep the tools or anything in this open space from moving to places that would harm the unit or the hoses .... Nothing fancy, just made it strong enough to withstand some punishment. There are braces and supports behind the bulkhead to strengthen it and I then just covered it with some s**** vinyl just because .... I used Velcro to keep it all in place. Again, nothing fancy. I then cleaned up the shop from all the upholstery work and the wife and I made sure the sewing machine was all set for sewing up the windlace tomorrow. A short day in the shop but well worth being outside and enjoying the weather for the better part of the today. Funny story - my coupe driver door was giving me problems in the door jam latch area. I bought new latches and installed them. The door closed great, no problems, but I could not open it again - the p***enger door was locked from the inside, and all the windows were rolled up save for the rear window which was rolled down about an inch. My only option was to pop the hinges and, of course, one hinge pin starting moving no problem but the other one would not. I ordered the door pin removal unit and hoped that would work right when I got it but it did not. My buddy Ben then told me he had all these rods and such to pop the door locks of late model cars. He came over and as luck would have it he was able to grab the driver inside handle through the partially open rear wheel brow just enough to pop the door. I immediately unlocked the p***enger door and rolled down the driver window (lol!) before closing the door again a few times to adjust the latch to a good position. I think I learned several lessons of which I will not repeat and embarr*** myself anymore than I all ready have! Lol! Ahhhh, just another day in the life .....
The wife was great, sewing up the windlace for me, and I got them installed .... I also did the seat surround, just to soften up the look of it .... I used weatherstripping adhesive and screws to hold it all in place. So, a bit of a review using the plastic tubing. It is definitely not as easy to sew up nor is it all that pliable. The plastic was also smooth allowing the vinyl to slide around a bit. I liked the size, it covers the gaps really well, and I like the look of it. Looking back, I think roughing the plastic a little bit would have helped the vinyl to stay put better and that would have reduced some of the bunching. Not that I am unhappy with it, but I think a little better prep would have alleviated most of the problems. But, it’s done now and you live and learn ..... I have a little work to do with the rear window surround as it has some open gaps I want to do something with. I will get a pic tomorrow if Wyatt I am talking about. I have to finish the door squares I started, and screw in the kick panels. I keep chipping away at it .....
Sorry there haven’t been any postings for a few days - yesterday I was busy with personal stuff and I took Dad to the Audiologist which took some time s that killed the day. The day prior I finished up a couple things though. I set the kick panels up and drilled the holes to screw them in and I also bound the exposed edge of carpet at the doors edge .... I also upholstered the two square door panels as you can see that n the pic above. That was all the time I had unfortunately but I was happy to get something done. Today I did a major cleanup and “put away” of everything as a pinstriper is coming over tomorrow (weather permitting) to do some work on the truck. I am pretty excited by what we have planned and if the weather lets it happen, will post pics of the results .....
I love following this thread, it brings back lots of memories of my build. I have that exact same ceiling console in my 40 PU. I scribed and fitted the base to follow the headliner and I removed the heater controls and subs***uted them with my power window switches.
Thank you! I really like those small center ceiling consoles and this is the second 40 pickup I have put one in. Both of mine were from a 93 Suburban as well as using the third seat as my seat for the truck. I liquid nailed a mount point front and rear to the ceiling using the original shape. I have my AC and heater fan controls and a switch to change from heat to defrost and back ..... I am also using the original interior lights in it ..... great minds think alike!
Yesterday was a busy day - a good friend of mine, Greg Rudy is a pinstriped and we discussed some designs for the wife’s truck - I will let the pics tell the tale .... The phone number, on the ground between the tires, is the first family phone number that I can remember, so obviously I am not opening my own shop other than doing stuff for me. It’s all just for show to continue the late 50s early 60s shop truck theme. It has to dry at least 24 hours so I stayed out of the garage today. The end result the wife and I really like and Greg hit it out of the park for us.
I got started on the ****** today. While Greg, the pinstriper, was over I asked him to give me a hand and help me put my 700R up on my work bench. I have to install the gear indicator items on it ..... Too new for this forum but suffice to say I am working on it .....
Finished the ****** today and I just made the electricals be able to disconnect ..... I have not heard from you m the machine shop since that call three weeks ago. No worries as I will need to do some garage shuffling to get ready for the install ....
Had some things to take care of so I got into the garage in the early afternoon. I decided to install the door lock on the p***enger door. No biggie, right? Now here’s where the smallest of things can turn out to be be one ordeal .... First off the cylinder would not fit in the door hole - reamed it out slightly and no problem. Then you have to cut the shaft - they give you a little diddy on how to do that and so now it’s done. So, I get the lock cylinder in the door and I try the key to lock it - it won’t lock. The key turns 180 degrees + but you can’t remove the key and the door is still not locked. So I thought - let me install the set screw. I can’t get it to screw in all the way. After playing with it a little bit, an old piece of set screw was broken off in the hole and rusted in place. Now, we deal with rusty stuff in our hobby all the time, right? So I carefully drilled things out, moving up one size drill bit at a time, until I get to the #29 drill bit for the 8-32 tap. I just about have the tap through, everything is going “swimmingly” - you like that word? - until the tap hits something as it is coming through and the tap breaks. No way to remove it as there is nothing to grab on to. Other than saying ****! my mind was immediately on how I could drill out the tap and start again. 3 drill bits later and getting no where, that idea was not an option. So I look to see if I can find another location for the set screw. The only way for that to happen was to drill a hole and tap it from within the confines of the door. Fortunately I do not have gl*** installed in this door yet so I get my drill and wiggle it into place to start drilling when I realize, even if the hole gets drilled it woukd difficult if not impossible to tap the hole. Now I start to think what the hell am I going to do? Then I thought that there should be door handles with a key lock in the handle. I started looking the Drake catalogue for door handles that have a lock in the handle, have a flat mount plate, and the screw holes to mount the handle need to be 1.5” center to center. Turns out 33-34 phaetons and roadsters have this type of handle. According to Drake they are not original but have been made up, seemingly to solve my problem. I call Drake, ask a bunch of questions, and then say OK I want to order a pair - they are out of stock. Hit Mr Google and find a pair on eSlay and I ordered them. There are other garage door locks and some others that might also work but I will try this route first. So - four hours later I am no further along than when I started and $100 poorer to boot! Such is the way in the day in the life of a hot rodder! Lol!
Tom, You get an "A+" for perseverance. Ironic how those "quick" and "easy" tasks can go so wrong at times.........Don.
Thanks, Don - think we all go through stuff like this in our builds. Things can go sideways in a heartbeat especially on supposedly simple tasks just as you say. As always, I appreciate you following along and for your kind words ....
I like your build. The interior is interesting. On my '46 (same cab and box as '40) I could not bring myself to hack up the dash so I built a similar addition under it to hold the gauges. I also fabbed an O/H console very similar to yours.
Frenchtown - thank you! I like your dash. My cab is a 42-47 like yours and I did not add any holes - I just rubber plugged 3 holes at the top of the dash. Like you, I went under the dash to add in what I needed.
I have to install the p***enger door gl*** and will follow the procedure listed in a thread here on this forum .... ...... 1. Roll the regulator to the full up position, and place it inside the door, resting at the bottom. 2. Insert the gl***, front facing down, rotate into the tracks, and have someone hold it from the top in the half-down position. 3. Raise the regulator up to meet the gl***, and it should be easy to attach both rollers at this point, sliding the left from the middle to the left, and then the right from the middle to the right. 4. Next, simply raise the entire ***embly to the top, the regulator holes should align easily, and install the screws that hold the regulator to the door. ...... Using this method, made question is how to install the 3 piece horizontal felting with the window in place? I think I may rest the gl*** at the bottom of the door in the channels, then install the upper felting - between steps 2 and 3. I will probably have to keep it propped up with something to keep it in the track but I think that will work. I am up for any other ideas if you have any! I started taping off the window opening .... ... and worked on the large window surround felting. The actual felting pulled away at the upper 2 curves of the door so I am in the process of glueing it back in place with it being curved so it will hold better .... The clothespins work great as they are about the same thickness as the gl***. Doing the outer lips first, than the inner portion. At least I am moving forward today - not anything like yesterday! Lol!
Just to be clear and to give credit where credit is due, the door gl*** install tips and ideas came from a 2014 thread here on the HAMB initiated by kgp50 with the quoted procedures above by the-rodster, a reply within this thread. I only added what I will do between steps 2 and 3.
It may be OT but I installed one of those LoKar shift indicators on my 442 many, many years ago and it has worked flawlessly. I installed a Hurst dual gate on a 68 (no column switches) and needed a NSS and reverse lights, that switch provided both. Nice door signs sir!
You can dis***emble one of those clothespins and you have a couple of tapered wedges to hold the gl*** up. Jam between the gl*** and lower felt. A couple strips of wide masking tape up and over the door top can be your fail safe. Bill
The Jalopy Journal
