This is sort of a follow-up to this thread... Turn Signal Wiring How-to | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com) This post came into being after a request by HAMBer @theLicks to decipher his Tri-C aftermarket steering column wiring. As it turns out, he didn’t get all the bits for it or any kind of wiring diagram when he bought it second-hand. So I offered to help, and after thinking about it realized this would be applicable to more than just his issue. Plus depending on how you wire it, there are multiple options. So here’s the ‘expanded’ version… In his case, he only had four wires coming out of his column; one for the horn, which only left three for the turns/brake lights. Not enough wires… but with the use of some relays in various combinations, full function can be gotten. Basically, the switch in his column was only a single-pole double-throw switch with a center off position. Think about that for a moment… Want full-function brake/turns with only a toggle switch on the dash? Done. Or do you have a vintage turn-only aftermarket switch? Convert to full function. Or what if you have a hard-to-replace vintage switch, either aftermarket or OEM that has issues? If you can find two wires in each left/right position that have continuity to each other, you can use it with this method. We can even add 4-way flashers to any set-up. So for clarity, I’m going to show the diagrams in pieces. The user-operated switches operate the relays, and the relays operate the lights. I’ll show the ‘control’ circuits for the relays, then the actual lighting circuits. I’m also only going to show the ‘left’ side relays, the right side will wire exactly the same, just using 'right' inputs and outputs. I’ll also note that I’m showing ‘standard’ Bosch-style ‘headlight’ relays as these are the most commonly-available relays. I strongly recommend using plug-in bases for the relays as that will make troubleshooting/repair far easier. Basic control circuit. Pretty simple, eh? 12V into the switch, power out to either the left or right relays when switched. I’d recommend connecting the turn switch power to a key-switched source. All other power circuits can be connected to unswitched power, reducing load on your ignition switch. Basic power circuit. Turn switch off, brake light power goes right through the normally-closed contact in the relay and you have brake lights. Turn the left turn on, both relays close the normally-open contacts (and open the normally closed) and power goes through the flasher and relays to the lights. Notice there’s no indicator light or lights however… Coming right up… For two indicators, simply come off the relay output to the front turns. Only need/want one indicator? Simply use a three-wire flasher. You can now buy a three-wire flasher that plugs into a two-wire socket and has a wire pigtail to supply the indicator lamp. NAPA EL12 is one, also sold under other brands. This is an electronic unit that will flash from 1 to 12 lamps. And you’ll notice that there’s a wire coming from the light switch to relay 2. This is an option; if you’re using a single-filament front turn light, you can use it as a running/parking light by making this connection on each side. This will prevent you from using two indicator lights as shown above however as they would be on anytime the running/park lights are. If you just HAVE to have two indicators with this option, the easiest way to do this is to use two flashers, one for each side. And last but not least, add 4-way flashers… Adding a two-pole single throw switch as shown in the control circuit is all it takes. There is one downside however; when the flashers are on, you’ll have NO brake lights. If you’re stationary, no big deal, but if moving it may be. Next post will address this…
So to ‘fix’ the no-brake-lights issue when the flashers are on, we’ll change the 2PST switch out for a 3PST switch and add two more relays, one for each side… This is the control side. You only want relay 3 operating when the flashers are on. Adding relay 3 and the jumper to relay 1 allows the brake lights to override the turn signals when the brakes are applied for safety. This is for two indicator lights. This is the single indicator version and retains the option of using a single-filament front light. I’ll note here that when the brakes are applied, all lamps will light up steady (no flashing) which is how most OEM 4-way flashers work. One last option for the custom guys…. If you’re this guy and want to make all of them work without worrying about smoking the brake, turn and/or taillight switches, here’s how to do it… This does it all. Just make sure you size the supply circuits big enough for your load. And if flashing 12 lamps isn’t enough, they also make a 20 lamp flasher… That's it! Hopefully at least some found this useful.
I think I’ll just stick my arm out the window.....some punk on a cell phone will probably think I’m flipping him off and ram me....lol. Honestly tho I love wiring it is cathartic for me, also the stock three wire switch had enough wires....it was just for the rear lites only no fronts involved.
Simple solution, and one I highly recommend. Easily solves the turn signal, emergency flasher, and canceling out the brake light (for the turn signal to work), wiring dilemma.....and it’s H.A.M.B. Compliant!
Wow Crazy Steve! That's exactly what I needed to wire up my signals to the Tri-C column... Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom! So, once I realized I needed 4 relays I remembered that Ron Francis included a provision on the Access 24/7 panel that I'm using to mount 4 additional relays right on top of the panel. I ordered 4 of them from Summit. They nest together and slide right on top of the panel which is the perfect place to put them for my setup. I started on the install tonight by attempting to remove the wires in the connectors that they supplied in order to replace them with the new wiring per your schematic. I easily removed the first couple of wires but the release space in the connector is pretty small and after considerable effort I have now got some stuck wires that I can't get out. I'm guessing at this point I have butchered them up so much that I may need to just smash them with a hammer and buy more connectors. Before I jump off that cliff I thought I would ask for help and see if you or anyone else has any suggestions on how to finish getting them out? Any tips on removing the rest of them without ruining them would be a big help too. I have tried a small screwdriver that I ground down to fit in the slot, a couple of different picks and even a needle with no success. I must be doing something wrong...... Any suggestions on how I can save the connectors? Here is the top of the panel where they slide on... Here are 2 of the relays nested Wires stuck in the connector - you can see how I have screwed them up
I believe a Napa parts store could fix you up with the tool to release the wires. My first stop before Napa would be my local auto repair shop to see if he has the needed tool, to help me out.
Use a skewer needle or dentist pick to bend [push back] the barb on the spade terminal and they slide out
This is a very handy tool Menards sells, I assuming you probably don't have Menards there though so look for something similar. https://www.menards.com/main/electr...11-c-6455.htm?tid=3938723263142555705&ipos=30 The most important part when trying to release these terminals is to push and hold the wire up from the bottom before inserting the tool. If you don't create some clearance where the lock tab is they can be a bitch. I made this illustration years ago for a different terminal but the idea is the same. You need to make a little clearance for the tab to come up by pushing the wire from the back otherwise forcing the tool in sometimes bends the tab making it harder to release. (ignore the yellow arrow, that was to show how terminal was removed after released)
Hey, thanks for the suggestions 24RIVERVIEW and everyone else! You're right, we don't have Menards out here. I searched all over for that tool because it looks like the easiest to use. I wanted to respond here because after several days of frustrating myself, I finally talked to the tech where I bought the relays and discovered that there is a white plastic lock on the backside that has to be removed in order to get the terminals out! I had noticed the white plastic part and had even pulled on it some but it didn't move so I assumed it was part of the connector and figured I would break it if I kept messing with it. Anyway, it does come off and that solved the problem. Felt pretty dumb when he told me about it. I asked him why they don't supply instructions with their relay blocks and he did not have an answer. Probably most people just splice into the wires that come installed, but I did not want a bunch of splices in my new harness. Hopefully this info will save other novices like me some aggravation!
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