I have gone back to the archives and read the article by Clark...but now I have some questions. The frame I am using is only 108" long so I am going to have to splice in ten extra inches. I heard this in not a problem. I have also found a kit a guy makes with all new cab, bed, and radiator mounts. Does anyone else have any words of wisdom for me. I am building a 1953 Chevy pickup.. or is Clark still around so I can pick his brain? Thanks Angela
I'm still here. You have several options. First you could shorten the bed infront of the wheel. I wouldn't do this unless you plan a radical chop. It throws the proportions out of wack. second you could lengthen the frame. Lot of work and getting it straight is a chore. I would suggest just moving the rear back. The frame should be long enough. You may have to move the back crossmembers arouns a little or make some new ones, but it would be a lot easier than lengthening the frame. On my truck I used mid 60's Chevy truck trailing arms with airbags. I love this set up. You could also use coil springs (cheap) or coil overs. Clark
Thanks Clark...now on moving the rear back are you just talking about moving the rear end and leaf springs? that would be to easy. I was planning on having a friend of mine do the welding for the splice on the frame, but your right I am not sure how to keep it straight. Angela
Clark... If you dont mind, I have a couple questions too... Does the long wheelbase single cab truck have a 8' bed? I scowered junkyards today and found a few s10's but all the trucks seem to have 6.5' bed or so (full armspan). I would really like to not have to build fuel lines and brake lines.
sounds like you're using a s10 blazer frame? that sounds about how much i had to stretch the frame using a blazer frame. it really wasn't that much more work, if you can handle all the other fab work to do the swap you should be able to handle the stretch. i stretched mine right in front of the front mount for the leaf spring, as it turned out, i used sections of the old stock frame, the height of the rails was very close. with it all stripped down to the frame, it's pretty easy to get measurements to keep it straight, etc.
I've got a shortbed standard cab out back that I can measure. I would think the shortbeds are 6' and the long would be 8'. I'll get the wheelbase on it too.
Did some measuring tonight and there is not enough room to move back far enough to matter. So I am just going to splice the frame in the straight part of the rails and go from there. I will try to post pics as I go along or maybe wait till I'm done and post them all together....I
Any ideas for keeping the frame straight?? I don't have the original frame so I am going to look for some c channel to match... Let me know of ideas Angela
Any ideas for keeping the frame straight?? I don't have the original frame so I am going to look for some c channel to match... Let me know of ideas Angela
I am current doing a 38 Chevy to S10 and have recently purchased a 50 for a swap to S10 too. Do a search on the stovebolt BB for "S10" and "frame swap" and you will find a bunch of stuff. I believe there is some on the HAMB too. http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi This guy had to do exactly what you want to do, he lengthened the frame for a one ton suburban and did a pretty good job from my view point for a garage job: Mike V. - http://www.enzoco.com/mike/truck/ he had the "C" channel figured out. I wouldn't attempt this unless you are confident with your fab, welding and knowledge of automotive engineering for safety reasons. Lots of folks in OKC that could help you. http://www.commerce.usask.ca/staff/hipkin/burb/frameswap.html The long bed trucks are something less than 8ft inside dimension. I have one at the shop (1982) and will measure and post tomorrow. I think the link above has all the different wheelbases listed. Other sites that have S10 chassis swap info: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ http://www.ad-engineering.com/ http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/ Good luck with your project and I look forward to seeing the pictures! Jim
I think that the Blazer frame is only about 100" w.b. The short box pickup has a 108", long bed reg. cab 117.9", and the extended cab is 122". The long bed reg. cab is usually the most adaptable without having to do major surgery to the frame as you can alter the wheelbase with offset lowering blocks if you're using the leafs. Or if you plan to go to a different kind of rear suspension like the one Clark mentioned the 117.9" frame will still have the kickup in approximately the right location as alot of the fat fendered cars and trucks have a w.b. in the 113"-119" range. My 56 IHC 1/2ton was so close that I made up the difference by shifting the bed back and forth by a fraction of an inch until it all lined up, of course my running boards are now the wrong length but they are so trashed that I was gonna have to fab up new ones anyway. darren
i would'nt think it would be all that big of a deal. just get a nice flat level work area (table or floor) take lots of measurements before, during, during, during, during, and after. things like distance from the floor in different spots ahead and behind the splice, center of front hubs to center of rear axles on each side (or some other spot if the rear is not in the frame at the time). measure measure measure!!! get a short level and maybe a 4 footer too. should'nt be that bad. just take your time.
What I did to keep the frame straight was.... 1. Found some frame channel that fit over the S10 frame 2. Cut it 8 inches longer than what I needed to stretch it 3. used a bunch of C clamps and vise grips 4. measure the top and bottom of stretch to keep it equal 5. Do a cross measurement (diamond) to check square 6. when you are happy tack weld in several locations 7. then slowly weld all around inside and out
Hi Rev, I just read your thread as I am new to this site and am still trying to figure it all out. I also have a 38 chevy pu that I'd like to put on a S-10 frame and I've been searching for the info on the swap but I'm not coming up with much. Could you share some of your experience with me ? I'd like to know if you had any steering shaft clearance to header problem, and if you had trouble with the steering box clearance to the radiator support or the fender? also did you make your own body mounts or did you buy the kit? Thanks in advance for your time ....Modom
dont put a 38 on an S-10 frame. rad support and front fender hit the steering box. you could try to install a rack but it's not an easy job.
How bad does the steering box hit the radiator support and fender? Any information you can give me I appreciate.
theres actualy a group on here for chasis swaps . http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=646
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