Got a '51 Chevy truck that's been sitting in storage waaay too long...truck was running, driving, albeit all original, 10 yrs ago. Tired of it sitting there, time to do something with it...(pics to follow...post ***led "What happens when you have too many projects...!") Anyway, I'd like to build this truck to use, as in towing a loaded 16 - 18 ft trailer, etc. What would be a good front suspension option here? Definitely not M2, something heavier, thought about narrowing a 1/2 ton truck front clip, but that doesn't measure out right (stock frame would have to be narrowed if the clip was narrowed). Would a Nova or the like be sufficient for such duties? Planning on grafting on newer rear leaf springs...and possibly Caddy 472 power for lots of torque...anybody got any suggestions? No, Fat Hack, I'm not gonna use a 2.8...... Brian
my dad clipped his with a nova past summer,,he loves it forgot to mention about the nova clip,, if you make some slices into the original frame (back around the rear of the cab) the nova subframe will slide right into the stock frame. youll have to redo the front cab mount i believe,but like porkN****** said,itll get you way down there.
The Camero/Nova clip is going to set you down in the snout pretty good. But as far as pulling, all you're doing with the front is steering. So you're main concern is going to be brakes, right? Parts (even upgrades) are pretty easy to come by with this combo, and you could always go to big block springs to get it up a little, and take some of the dive out of it when you're brakeing. Not probably a popular thought, but you could 4 wheel it. Sorry just couldn't resist Getting back to it, if down in the snout wouldn't bother you, the I think the Camero/Nova sub is a good idea. And there was one in the cl*** ads last week.
My brother narrowed a late-70's vintage chevy halfton crossmember and welded it into the notched and boxed stock frame on his '55 1st series. He's using dropped spindles and I think he cut a coil on each side, as well. The suspension components are all bolted to this crossmember, and the crossmember is bolted into the stock truck, so it's a pretty clean install. He used the late model power steering, also. --Casey
I'm keepin' the straight axle on my '51, but then again, I don't plan on doing any significant towing. As Camaro and Nova front ends have already been mentioned, I'll toss out a third option...... Now I know the word "Pacer" doesn't usually come to mind when thinking about an Advanced Design IFS conversion. However, it seems the AMC Pacer's front end was over-engineered and they made to be WAY MORE BEEFY than it needed to be. Another positive aspect is that the Pacer set up is a bolt on removal and installation. Here is a link to some installation instructions: http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/ifs.htm
Nova is a little wide. Got one under my Stude. Works well, but the next one gets an s10 frame. Cleaner, easier, narrower track.
I have the information to change the stock Nova/Camaro rotors to the metric S 10/Monte Carlo rotor which will bring your wheels in 1 inch one each side. This puts you back to nearly the stock track width.
Greazer is right about the Pacer. I'm helpin' a friend with a 454 powered 59 GMC. The ch***is was alreadty equiped with the pacer when he got it, that front end is a stout as it gets. OH Gee we no more get the Volare thing out when I shoot over to the cl*** ads and there sets a Volare clip right on top. Shazaam.
hey,WZjunk,thats cool,is it a bolt on conversion? what do you need to do?,my dad wishes his track was a lil narrower so he can have a better option of wheels. im sure he'd be interested in this! thanks
Nova/Camaro to Metric Rotor You use a metric rotor to do the changeover of course. Use the original inner bearing and seal and change the outer to a Federal Mogul A-2 I believe. (I have all of this written down at the shop but it is to cold to go out there now) If in doubt have someone at a parts store look it up. It is the inside diameter of your spindle size and the outside of the bearing size for the metric hub. You use a caliper that fits an early 80's Chevy 1/2 ton truck or Caprice. The spindle area around the caliper mount needs to be clearanced (ground away) in a small area. Use the longer bolts made for the new caliper. You may prefer to use a spacer on the piston side of the caliper or use a double pad on that side with the brake lining removed off of one of them. The one glitch in this setup is that the end of the spindle is still in the same place it always has been. Therefore if you have a wheel or wheel and hubcap that will not allow for the spindle being offset an inch more into the wheel, you have a problem. If you have questions, just ask me.
I did a tech article on using an S-10 frame a couple of weeks ago. I use my truck all of the time and as you can see by the picture I can pull a trailer with it. Clark
Brian, There is a guy in my club who has a '48 1/2 ton that is on a late model full size frame. He swears that he didn't have to narrow it to fit under the body. I'll try to track down the info on that. Later, *****6.
Thanks for the ideas and the discussion...I had forgotten about the Pacer front end being a good fit... Casey, that looks good. I'd love to take a look at it, I may have to run up to Huntsville one day. I like the idea of the beefier suspension...my initial measurements indicate that I could only narrow the '70's truck crossmember about two inches without bringing the frame rails inward, and two inches is not enough. If I bring the rails in I think it would get crowded with the 472 install.. SoWhat, I do like the s-10 idea, I was just concerned with the s-10 frame being stable enough to tow the type of loads I generally haul. It's not uncommon for me to have old buick wagon, full size van, lwb p/u or the like on the trailer...looking at probably 5 - 7000 lbs total weight at times...do you think the s-10 could handle that? I am running trailer brakes... I have a lwb s-10 frame that I started putting a 49 body on years ago...never finished it, I was in college and broke at the time... Wz junk, thanks for the conversion info...I'm sure that may come in handy later... *****, the frame may not have to be narrowed, but my rough measurements show the track width of the '77 to be about 6 inches wider than the '51....I bet his wheels are awfully close to his fenders... Here's what I have...I've got a rear steer, drum brake Nova clip in good shape (would need to change to discs though), a lwb s-10 frame, and the entire suspension from a '77 Chevy p/u all sitting here, I'd like to use one of them as I'm doing this as a budget build (in the middle of building a new house!). Decisions....Decisions..... Thanks for all the info and discussion. Here's a pic of the long neglected truck...
kustom, the best solution is to keep that truck hooked to the wrecker and drive to charlotte, NC. there i'll give you enough money for a shower or a hot water heater for the new pad you're building. that would solve all the probs right? sorry. when i built my '53, i was told a mid '70s ch***is would work with the body. the only catch was a significant shimming exercise to relevel all of the body and the front track was way too wide. similar to the nova clip problem. personally i'd do the S-10 with some helper bags on the rear to account for tongue weight of the trailer. brandon
Stole, I doubt I'd make it that far...well, without getting taken to jail anyway...the wrecker is one strong s.o.b (292 six) but it has no brakes...the cab is welded to the frame and the door pops open occasionally...when you least expect it...and it has no lights...but the air horn works!
i guess AL inspections are a little more "relaxed" than NC? sowhat's tech a few weeks ago on the s-10 was really good, i'd try that route. too many projects - my father is the same way.
Inspections? What's that? Actually, AL has none..but this thing hasn't been registered for years, just a yard truck. Brian
I would chose the S 10 option. I can give you more details and pictures of the way I do it, if you decide to do that option. I can also find some Nova/Camaro subframe pictures, and I also have pictures of the WZ JUNK frame which is Nova front, 48 truck middle and S 10 rear frame. The WZ JUNK truck is a little of everything.
Guess you might have a little trouble finding one but one of the rod shops over here uses jaguar front ends from 70s XJ6 or 12 cars, they unbolt from the ch***is and leave you a nice area to weld it to your ch***is, all you need do then is make some shock towers from some thick angle iron, gusset them for strength and away you go. The track width works out just right too. Over here they use a RHD steering rack turned upside down in front of the crossmember but Im sure you'd find a MII or similar rack would fit ok.
Wzjunk, I'd appreciate any photos or advice you have...I guess my main concern is the s-10 being strong enoough for the job. Well, not strong, but stable on the highway with a load...I had a lwb s-10 and towed a 16ft trailer with it, and it could really jerk the truck around at times.. although I guess with a wider rearend and the added weight of the Cad engine it could really make a difference. Like I said, I've got the s-10 frame conversion I started years ago, it's already got a 5w cab mounted on it...I ran into problems fitting around the steering box, and that's as far as I got...but that was 10 years ago. I think so-what covered that on his post earlier...So-what, do you have any input on how yours handles towing a trailer, or what kind of loads you tow? I want to be comfortable at 70mph with a full load (as in a '60's buick) withouth the "*** biting the seat" feeling....I do have a load equalizing hitch, maybe utilizing it and some helper bags or shocks on the truck would be the answer. Using the s-10 frame, what is a good rearend choice? I know the stock one is too narrow, without huge rear tires...what are some of you running? Crafty, that's not a bad idea, if I could run across a cheap jag that is...but they are not that plentiful around here. Thanks...Brian
I used a S 10 Blazer rear end or a rear out of a 4 wheel drive. They are nearly as wide as the original truck rear. I will try to post a picture of the modified radiator support I used. I sectioned the support and used an early Mustang radiator to clear the steering.
Brian....I've hauled my father's Ford (old and very heavy)tractor with it. The trailer is his and it's not the best. It sits too high and has no brakes. The trailer would get squirrely but the truck handled it. If you are serious about hauling I think you should run a truck tire with heavier plys. I have a small camper and I don't even know it's behind me. Us idiots have even raced on the highway with our campers behind us. All in all I think the frame will handle it, it's just how you set it up that will matter. I have an air ride system on the back of mine. It works great for hauling and towing. Hell I use the airbags to hook the trailer up. Drop it, back it up and raise the truck and trailer. My receiver is welded to a peice of 4x4x1/4 tubing welded into the back of my frame. Hell I think I could to a house with it! Clark
Thanks for the info...I'll probably be bugging both of you with questions as I get into this project... So-what, if you towed a tractor with yours with no problem then I'm sure it will handle it..I think my problem was is that it was a stock s-10 with an anemic 2.8 (sorry FH!), 14" tires, and a really heavy trailer...I think the wider rear, along with helper bags it should tow fine. Wz junk, on the truck I had started I got to the radiator support and never got past that. I didn't think about sectioning it... Thanks... Brian Thanks....Brian
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