Have been researching boxing a 29 Model A , Lots of great information shared for a lot of years. I haven't read anything with regard to boxing or plating with body still on. my question is , did anyone box with Body still on? my reason for asking is I put a Ranger 7.5 rear end in my 29 P/U. I have to use a 4 link parallel bar kit and Panhard, so I was just thinking on box or truss in sections where it attaches, just looking for information and knowledge , thanks
I suppose you could in theory but it would take so much more time for an undoubtedly poorer end result. Imagine wiping your **** with your pants still up and ****oned. you could do it but...
So you only need attachment points for the suspension, and really are not concerned about taking flex out of the frame? If so I would bend up some hat section pieces that set into the frame and bolt them in place. Most boxing plates are not very thick. If you bend up some pieces you could some thicker material. Perhaps 3/16" plate and use four 7/16" or 1/2" frame bolts. Also saves welding under the car if it's together and had a gas tank. Boxing is usually done while the frame is squared and ideally in a jig.
Model A Ford frames tend to sag over time, especially the drivers side section, from the motor mount back to the center crossmember. With the body on, how do you know your frame is true? The last thing you want to do is box a bent frame.
Welding overhead Stinks! And then there's that little issue with being in a good position to actually see what your welding. I'd sure like to come watch you do that job, I haven't had a good Laugh in a long time.
The A frame has a lot of built in flex.If you park a roadster with one wheel up on a curb you may have a door pinched shut.It worked with the suspension Henry designed for it.A 4 bar system is going to work better with a no flex frame.Take the extra effort,and pull the body,and full box.You will end up with a solid built car.
woodiewagon 46 is correct, Model A frames sag behind the rear motor mount where the bellhousing is supported, I've had to straighten mine and there are articles in the Model A books about this problem. I wouldn't even consider boxing a frame without checking it to make sure it's straight and would be a lot easier with the body off.
Also, no matter how careful you are, "A" frames twist like hell even if carefully welded in short beads. Th best looking boxing work is also welded after V cutting the joints and dressing the welds flush. In my humble opinion, pull the body!
Partially boxed frames were often done that way because of the body being on the ch***is. That was normally done on the front half though. There is no reason that you could not box or beef the ch***is where it needs to be strengthened without pulling the body. it will involve welding above your head and if you don't have a lift welding while laying on your back but it can be done and no reason not to do it.
Ain't much work to pull an A body, 'specially a truck cab; foolish to try, I'd think. Those boxing plates that Wolf makes with the little tabs fit and work pretty good if you don't want to cut your own. I've boxed several A frames and I never had one "twist like hell" from the welding.
Burning ear hair makes the scariest sizzle sound, it will make you jump faster than a hot BB in your shoe.
How are you going to make sure its square and level? Just pull the body and do it right. That way when the body is off you will also have easy access set everything up and do things like running brake lines.
thanks everyone for comments , I guess body off is the recommended choice. My trucks doors fit really nice and hood alignment is excellent, so I am ***uming that frame is close to being straight and level, this was a 29 Murray body Fordor so I suppose lifting off body wont be the end of the world. thanks again.
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