53 Chevy with oil leak in three locations. The collar, the ring and mating surface of the 4 bolts cover of u joint. Can the back end of transmission where U joint located be removed without pulling ******? Or dropping rear end?!
Rear end has to be moved to the rear to separate the torque tube from the trans, or pull the motor and trans as a unit.
Maybe a car is different than a truck, but on my '54 3100, the bell connection for the driveshaft at the end of the ****** can be loosened, then unscrew the 4 corner bolts and slide the housing back far enough to access the u-joint. You need to support the driveshaft tube, as it will want to fall down. Undo the u-joint, slide it back out of the way and then slowly lower the tube. You could then re-seal the bell union, or if you're wanting to remove the back housing of the ******, I suppose you could. On a truck, the back housing interchanges with the closed driveshaft as well as the open driveshaft. Gaskets are available to reseal the bell connection.
^^^^^ Thanks, Bob ... There's still a bunch of folks that think the axle has to be pulled. Couple helpful hints on making the ball hold oil ... While apart, dress the inside of the trans case, removing any scoring or burrs. Same on the ball - if badly scored or damaged, replace or repair. Now, the parts are ready to install. Start with the ball ... With some ***'y grease on case & ball surfaces, no corks in ball, try 2 gaskets on coupler flange & snug it down & check tension. Add or subtract gaskets to end up with a medium tension. Now, put it together .... Past few years, I've had good success using neoprene O-rings in place of the cork. Our local industrial bearing house has them in stock. Also, I quit using the hex head 1/4 - 28 bolts - I use allens & Lock-***e.
This is such amazing news thanks everyone for the help. I’ll look into changing the o rings to neoprene. The kit I did purchase came with two corks.
I agree totally with 302GMC. Use the O rings, versus cork. Also, when I go to tighten the threaded end of the ball sleeve, I always use a big pair of channel locks or even a large pipe wrench. Never leaks. Bob
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/07trans/7_013.HTM http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/04rear/4_15.HTM
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